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ed_k__north_carolina_

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Posts posted by ed_k__north_carolina_

  1. <p>This may sound simplistic, but just go out and take photographs with it. Since it is digital, you have made the investment in a fine photographic instrument and like a musical instrument you can read all about it, but you need to play it to get better. Unlike a film camera, you don't have the continuing expense of film and developing and you can take photos over and over, changing settings and instantly checking the results.</p>

    <p>Read this forum, there are many people willing to help with your questions and you can learn a lot from other people's questions (I know I do). There are links to other sites and poking around can lead to very interesting finds.</p>

    <p>But as with anything on the internet, you can find good information and bad information. You need to be able to tell the difference. Don't let pixel peepers get you confused with their arguing over minutiae.</p>

    <p>Have fun.</p>

    <p>Ed</p>

  2. <p>Nice stuff guys!</p>

    <p>Mike Gammill: I worked for a camera store chain from '78 to '80 and I had several Olympus OM-1/OM-2 key fobs for years (I can only find the one). "Small Wonder". I sold a few OMs, but the AE-1 was the biggest seller. Even though I was a committed Canonista, I always thought the OM series were cameras I wanted to own for my self.</p>

    <p>Erik Magnuson: I too lusted but could not afford the 'Big Iron' from Canon. I now have nice F-1 (fixed up with some F-1n parts) and a replacement for my F-1N. I still want a speedfinder......</p>

    <p>Ed</p>

     

  3. <p>I enjoyed the original thread (http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00XYU0) from back October. So being the rabble-rouser that I am ;-) I figured I'd kick this off.</p>

    <p>I recently added an Olympus OM-2n to my stable mainly Canon FDs. A dear friend of mine, who passed away about 10 years ago, had let me use his OM-2 kit back in the days when I was a starving, under-employed college graduate.</p>

    <p>This is in memory of JWN.</p>

    <p>Ed</p><div>00YRg1-341667684.JPG.bb6e4e2812472a76b6034338836751cf.JPG</div>

  4. <p>The 199A or any A series Flash will work. With the A-1, the flash can set both the aperature and the shutter sync. The 155A is the most common, but they all are readily available.<br>

    The most over-looked and perhaps the the most unusual, is the 011A. It is a small, about the size of a deck of cards, runs on 2 AA batteries; but only has 2 settings. I think of it as the equivalent of the pop-up flash on my xxD series digital cameras. It is so small, I carry it with me whenever I have an A series camera in my attache case.<br>

    <br />Ed.</p>

     

  5. <p>It's a slave trigger for a remote flash.</p>

    <p>Be careful if you use it with your 580EX. I used a Vivitar slave with a 283 and an EX series flash for my 20D a few years back. The pre-flash tripped the 283 and gave me inconsistent results.</p>

    <p>Ed</p>

  6. <p>I've gotten around to picking up most of the A Series (missing only a working AL-1 and the black body AE-1 and AE-1P).<br>

    The A-1 is everything I expected and the AE-1 is everything I remember.<br>

    The AT-1 is the biggest surprise. It handles well and the meter is accurate. It uses the Powerwinder A and the A Series flashes set the shutter speed flash sync speed.<br>

    The Ftb (I have 5 including my first Canon from 1973) is a great camera. It shares the metering system with the original F-1, a 12.5% semi-spot which has many advantages and one major disadvantage. Since it uses a semi-silvered beam splitter, linear polarizers don't work well. <br>

    The best part is the AT-1 is a bargain, typically > $50. Try it, you'll like it.</p>

    <p>Ed</p>

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