tomweis

Yes I'm aware of the older Vivitars' high trigger voltage... my post was tongue in cheek. No, I wrote, "...a Nikon SB910 or an old SB25 work fine on the Coolpix A". The camera hot shoe is fine.

Thanks for your input, everyone! @ mike_halliwell - Turns out the Godox X2T transmitter has a menu item labeled "Shutter" and the two options are "Curtain" and "Leaf". I may go to a store and test one. @ Mary Doo - Right, none of my four Godox TT685Ns work on the Coolpix A. I have four flashes because I use two bodies at events, each with a flash, and I frequently set up two room lights at events (wedding receptions, bar/bat mitzvah parties). I also use 2 - 4 flash units on stand(s) during the family portrait sessions at those type of events. Actually, I have 8 Godox TT685 series flashes; 4 for Nikon and 4 for Olympus. The nice thing is that they all use the same radio system so they all can be triggered from any camera system using a Godox/Flashpoint transmitter. @ bgelfand - I tried all my tests in manual mode (both flash and camera). I use manual mode 90% of the time as a matter of course. @ steve_gallimore|1 - Godox firmware or Coolpix firmware? The Coolpix has the latest firmware for that model (which is sort of old now). The flashes are at V3.2. Godox firmware V3.3 for the TT6895N says only "Compatible with Camera D780’s hotshoe agreement." I don't own a D780 so I hadn't bothered with this. Besides, it only works on a Windows PC - thanks Godox! - and needs a third party piece of software to unzip the RAR file. Apparently, Godox software people are stuck in 1987. At any rate, I doubt it would fix my issue. @ rodeo_joe|1 - trigger voltage... maybe. I can try an old Vivitar 285. ;) @ mike_halliwell - Other than the old Vivitar 285, I have no other flashes to test.

Thanks, Bill. I'm OK with 4x6 prints at least for now. The feature I like about the DP-QW410 is that it weighs only about 15 pounds - easy to pack, easy to carry. At 30 seconds per prints it's not the fastest, but it's not the most expensive either. This will be my first "photo booth" type of event. If I find myself booking these shoots in the future I may add a faster printer with more print size options. Thanks for the tips about keeping the printhead clean and protecting it from damage!

Thanks for all you answers! I called Mitsubishi to see if they had a driver for macOS Big Sur, and they do not. The guy I spoke to said that Mitsubishi does not make the CP-M1 any longer and has no plans for a replacement. I'm so glad I didn't buy one! I went with the DNP DP-QW410 instead. We'll see how it work out.

I have a Nikon Coolpix A, and my Godox TT685N (for Nikon) does not fire when on the camera's hotshoe. Neither does a Godox radio transmitter. All my Godox TT685Ns (I have 4 of them) work fine on a D810, D800, and D5300, but not on the Coolpix A. However, a Nikon SB910 or an old SB25 work fine on the Coolpix A. The only thing I can think of is that the Godox can't sync with a leaf shutter. Anybody know why the Godox TT685N flash won't work on a Coolpix A?

Hi - has anyone here used the Mitsubishi CP-M1 at an event for a photo booth, etc..? Pros/Cons? Print quality (both color and B&W)? It weighs 30 pounds which is sort of a bummer, but I'm curious to know if anyone here has actually used it at a gig and made hundreds of prints with it. Thanks!

You're not handy at all? Don't bother opening the flash. Contact Quantum Instruments to see if they can fix it ( qtm [dot] com/repairs ) and ship it to them if they can work on it. You could get a nasty shock from the capacitor(s) if you don't know what you're doing, and since you don't know electronics diagnosing the faulty components in the first place isn't really possible. Good luck!

Wow. I know this thread is over a year old, but I owned an NVS-1, and the "strobe on a rope" bare bulb cable for it, and the "refluser" reflector/diffuser card. I also had Jon Falk’s book “Adventures in Location Lighting”. I was a photojournalism student at Indiana University’s Ernie Pyle School of Journalism, and graduated in 1993, and come to think of it, I think Falk was a guest speaker in one of my PJ classes. I don't remember why I sold that gear... Thanks for the trip down memory lane!

I used to send my Lumedyne batteries to a Batteries Plus location near me (Long Island, NY) where they would re-cell the battery units. Instead of soldering they have a device that will zap a metal tab to a cell without damaging the cell with heat (like a soldering iron can)... I don't remember what they called it. Anyway, the price was right and less of a hassle than doing it myself! But I sold all my Lumedyne stuff years ago when I realized the flash duration of the regular packs is SO LONG that I was losing a significant amount of exposure when syncing at 1/250th of a second shutter speed. This also means that the Lumedyne gear really can't freeze action unless you invest in one of their special and expensive "Action" short flash duration packs (which also can't run off an AC adapter). Even portrait photos looked not as sharp or crisp as I would like when using the "regular" Lumedyne packs I owned, and I attribute that to the long flash duration. The AC adapter attaches to the bottom of a pack like a battery and it weighs a TON - lots of copper in that transformer. It does not shorten recycling speeds. The Lumedyne system also does not have a radio receiver built into it. You have to attach (tape, rubber band, Velcro, etc.) a PocketWizard receiver to the flash head where the sync port is located. It's sort of kludgey... The Lumedyne modeling lamp is a joke - only useful in a dark room, and only certain flash heads have a modeling lamp. The switch for the lamp is on the head so if the head is out of reach on a tall stand or boom you're out of luck. Honestly, if you need a portable battery powered light system, I'd look at Elinchrom Ranger, various Godox/Flashpoint units, and Alien Bees (with their Li-Ion battery) - all of which have shorter flash durations and all of which have some sort of radio system baked in. Heck, you can do a lot with just speedlights too. Just my 2 cents...

Expose for the skin (in this case maybe +1 stop with a spot meter). Bring the subject to the edge of the shady area so light from the ground kicks up into the subject. No fill light or reflector needed.

Thanks for your help, Michael! My web searches kept returning Smugmug, Pixieset, Shootproof, etc. and I wanted to know what else is out there.

Hi, I do some school portrait photography, and I'm interested in having an online photo gallery to sell prints to families of the students. However, I require a gallery where each student's photos are private. In other words, a gallery where each family can only see photos of their student, not the rest of the class. I suppose this would require a unique login code for each student. Does anybody know what software or online service companies like Lifetouch, Fox's School Portraits, Stomping Ground use to keep a student's photos separate from everyone else's?

In no particular order: Image Processing Applications / Software ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++ AKA: alternatives to Photoshop +++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Pixelmator Pixelmator Pro CameraBag RAW RAW Therapee DxO Optics Pro 10 Paint.net ON1 Photo 10 Pixlr Editor Serif Affinity Photo GIMP Capture 1 Corel PaintShop Pro X8 Corel AfterShot Pro 3 ACD Systems ACDSee Pro 6 and ACDSee Photo Editor MacPhun Luminar 1.0 and Luminar 2018 MacPhun Creative Kit 2016 PhotoScape Fotor Picasa Inkscape Alien Skin Software Exposure X2 Cyberlink PhotoDirector 7 Zoner Photo Studio 18 Aftershot Pro Topaz Labs - many products, many plugins The Best Photography Software for 2017 is... Best photo editing software in 2017 | TechRadar ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++ AKA: alternatives to Lightroom +++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Photo Mechanic Version 5 Cyberlink PhotoDirector 8 Ultra XnView MP Darktable darktable | the photo workflow software ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Stick with the 70-200mm f2.8 if you can't afford the Sigma 100-300mm f2.8 or you don't want to sell your 100-400mm. However, the reason to use f2.8 lenses isn't only for low-light night games, it's also to isolate the action against the background with shallow DOF even during day games. So shoot at f2.8 even during the day. I don't know the cost of the Sigma VS how much you'd get for the 100-400, but I would take the Sigma 100-300 over the slower 100-400 even if it means using a monopod which is pretty standard practice for long lens sideline photography. http://tomweisphoto.com/Z/forum_photos/20170719_NYCFC_VS_TorontoFC_(Tom-Weis)_17.JPG

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++ Alternatives to Photoshop +++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Pixelmator Pixelmator Pro CameraBag RAW RAW Therapee DxO Optics Pro 10 Paint.net ON1 Photo 10 Darktable darktable | the photo workflow software Pixlr Editor Serif Affinity Photo GIMP Capture 1 Corel PaintShop Pro X8 Corel AfterShot Pro 3 ACD Systems ACDSee Pro 6 and ACDSee Photo Editor MacPhun Luminar 1.0 MacPhun Creative Kit 2016 PhotoScape Fotor Picasa Inkscape Alien Skin Software Exposure X2 Cyberlink PhotoDirector 7 Zoner Photo Studio 18 Aftershot Pro Topaz Labs - many products, many plugins The Best Photography Software for 2017 is... Best photo editing software in 2017 | TechRadar ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++ Alternatives to Lightroom +++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Photo Mechanic Version 5 Cyberlink PhotoDirector 8 Ultra XnView MP ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Mr. Newman used a 4x5 a lot. His photo of President Kennedy was likely shot on 4x5 with a 90mm or maybe a 75mm.

<p>“…the on-camera TTL flash exposure won't give a properly metered exposure [with manual remote lights]…”<br> Actually the on-camera TTL flash is rather accurate even with manual remote flashes. I shoot about 30 events a year and use manual remote lights for the majority of them. I typically set up two Nikon SB-25 flashes at opposite corners of the dance floor area on 13’ stands - as far away as I can get usually. A Nikon SB-25 is dirt cheap, robust (aside from the plastic foot), has a PC connection, and the recycle time is decent with NiMH batteries. I set them to 1/8 or 1/16 power depending on distance, and usually the zoom head is set anywhere from 24mm to 50mm depending on distance and coverage needed. I’ve done this so many times I don’t take a meter reading anymore - my guesstimate for exposure is fairly correct.</p> <p>My camera settings are usually f2.8 - f4, ISO 1600, and shutter speed varies depending on ambient light (room lights, DJ lights, videographer’s light(s), etc.). Each remote is assigned a different group (A and B) so I can choose to fire both, one only, or none.<br> Sure I have to pay attention to how close I get to one light or the other so I don’t overexpose. Yes sometimes I forget to stop down a little, or to disable the Pocket Wizard group and I end up with a blown out shot. But this hardly ever happens.<br />Yes sometimes I’m shooting into a remote light, but it usually just looks a bit theatrical like one of the DJ lights.<br />And yes sometimes I get some unflattering cross shadows.<br> When using the on-camera flash in this set up, the remotes are about a stop or two under exposed from my camera setting. This creates a nice rim light, back light, or environmental light depending relative angle to the camera.<br> Or sometimes I disable them and just use the on-camera flash. Or sometimes I just use the available light. The best part about using manual remotes is the option to use only the remotes and not the on-camera flash. This gives me dramatic side light or more dramatic front light, and it’s more consistent shot-to-shot than TTL.<br> The point is I have lighting options.</p> <p>Having said that, there are definite advantages to TTL remote lights. The option to change aperture and shoot at f1.4, for example, and the option to use high speed sync are two that come to mind.</p> <p>Anyway this is getting away from my original inquiry. My two concerns with the PocketWizard Plus IV Transceiver are hot shoe stress and alignment of the flash's red focus assist beam. If anyone actually using this piece of gear has an opinion please share.<br> Thanks.<br />Tom<br> <img src="http://tomweisphoto.com/Z/photo_net/Nikon_PC_Pocket_Wizard_mounted_700_text.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="700" /></p>

<p>Hi,<br> Is anyone here using the PocketWizard Plus IV Transceivers? It's the new transceiver that mounts to the camera hot shoe and offers a TTL pass through with another hot shoe on top of the unit itself.<br> I'm wondering if anyone can share their experience with this product, specifically:<br> 1) With your flash sitting atop this block of a transceiver, do you feel the unit is strong enough to hold your flash without snapping off or breaking the camera's hot shoe? The extra cantilevered load looks sort of scary. How about when shooting vertically? How about when swiveling the flash head in the middle of a wedding reception to bounce the flash?<br> 2) How about alignment of the flash's red focus assist beam to the camera's AF sensors? Does having the flash up higher throw off this relationship?</p> <p>Thanks for sharing!<br> Tom</p>

<p>Lightroom 6 is still available as a standalone DVD for about $145. No monthly software subscription needed.</p>

<p>Hello,<br> Is anyone here using the Olympus E-M1 + Metz 64 AF-1 + 12-40mm f2.8? I'd like to know how much the AF assist beam helps the E-M1 focus in low light.<br> For example, could this kit reliably capture a bride and groom as they rush into a dark reception hall after being announced?<br> I'm considering such a kit and doing all the pre-purchase research I can. Thanks!</p>

<p>The new Polaris Karat hand held light meter measures flash duration in addition to exposure. That’s pretty interesting for a $290 device, although it measures T.5, not T.1 durations. Why not both? It would be really cool if the meter graphed the flash duration and displayed it on the fancy color display. I can dream.<br> The information below is from the instruction manual. Enjoy!<br> <br />****************<br />Measuring Mode<br /> Ambient Light: Shutter Speed (T) Priority Mode, Aperture (F) Priority, Mode, EV Mode, Auto ISO Mode Flash Light: Shutter Speed (T) Priority Mode, FD (Flash Duration) Mode<br> ****************<br> Measuring Range<br /> Ambient Light (ISO100):<br />Incident Light:EV0~EV19.9 (in 0.1 step) Reflected Light:EV0~EV19.9 (in 0.1 step)<br /> Flash Light:<br />Incident Light:F1.4~F90+0.9 (in 0.1 step) Reflected Light:F1.4~F90+0.9 (in 0.1 step)<br> ****************<br> Flash Duration (T0.5): 1/100~1/9000s (1/100~:1/100 step,1/1000~:1/200 step,1/3000~:1/500 step,1/5000~:1/1000 step)<br> ****************<br> Repeat Accuracy ±0.1EV<br> ****************<br> Caribration<br> Constant Incident light:C=340<br> Reflected light: K=14</p>

<p>FWIW, Priolite compact strobes and generators have internal exchangeable battery and a built-in radio module. Interesting monolights.<br />Priolite is a German company and was founed by one of the Hensel Studiotechnik engineers.<br> http://www.priolite-usa.com/</p>

<p>Woo-hoo! That means educational pricing! I just picked up two Elinchrom D-Lite RX 4 heads for essentially half price during the big sale a couple of weeks ago. My future accessory purchases will be direct from the MAC Group. :-)</p>

<p>@ JDM von Weinberg: Nope, these are two separate 50mm lenses. Good guess though!</p> <p>I’m not interested in repairing this lens, but I may sell it. Of course, I’ll indicate this defect to potential buyers if I do sell it.<br> Thanks again guys!<br />T</p>

<p>@ Charles: I have the spring - just need the bearing. I tried searching the floor of my small office to no avial. At any rate, it gave me an excuse to sweep and mop my office. :-)<br> @ John S.: Thanks! I did find 3/64” ball bearings on eBay for cheap. If it comes to that I’ll buy them.<br> @ Bernard: Using a ballpoint pen ball is brilliant!<br> Since I have 6 more lenses to fix, I’ll continue along with the rest. If one of them proves to far gone, I’ll use it for parts and take the bearing from it. If they are all repairable, I’ll try Bernard’s ballpoint pen trick. Failing that, to eBay for 3/64" balls.<br> Thanks again guys!<br />T</p>