erie_patsellis

<p>I havent' had a Hassy back apart, but I've been slowly replacing all the light trap felt on my LF holders with velvet ribbon as well, all but a few are done, and some 15 years after the fact, seal better than one could have imagined. I'd think that David's experience is typical, foam is cheaper, thus more likely to be used in a production environment, but the velvet should hold up just fine.</p>

<p>it really comes down to this, do you plan to grow your system? if you do, the Sinar is ideal, you will be able to use each and every piece, as well as mix and match as needed.</p>

<p>I have an F1 (and a P 4x5 and 8x10 as well), the only problem I could see is if somebody insisted on tightening the bottom clamp far too tight. It doesn't take much, and significantly more only stresses the clamp assembly. Ioan, have you laid your hands on one, if you can find somebody nearby that has one, that would put all the worries to rest. I prefer my F1 out and about, it's light enough, yet sturdy enough for most of what I shoot outdoors.</p>

 

<p>I'll offer 125 francs....</p>

<p>The single best way to find out what otherwise perfectly operating shutters need overhauling is to take them out in the cold, guaranteed. (the voice of experience and all that)<br>

Properly cleaned and lubed, -5 shouldn't be an issue. If you are planning on lots of outdoor shooting, Paul's implied suggestion to run them as dry as possible is a good one, in fact, I'd bet he'd happily set you up with a CLA as well. (and you'd be smart to let him work on your lenses, there's very few people that truly love the RB like Paul does)</p>

<p>erie</p>

<p> </p>

<p>A set of decamired filters should be relatively inexpensive these days (they sure weren't 20 years ago), a full set will allow you to warm and cool as needed, a Gossen Sixticolor meter will help you nail it.</p>

<p>400 VC scans quite nicely. This image is straight from teh scanner without any manipulation in PS, Umax Powerlook III, Vuescan with a 6x7 negative.<br>

<br /> <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r181/epatsellis/?action=view&current=Scan-080831-0007.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r181/epatsellis/Scan-080831-0007.jpg" border="0" alt="Scan-080831-0007.jpg" /> </a></p>

<p> </p>

<p>all speeds will sync, it's a (desireable) characteristic of a leaf shutter</p>

<p>either freestyle or ultrafine, ultrafine has a thicker version that fits well in film holders and stays put better.</p>

<p>You can get as long as you want, a cable release with a lock can give you hours, should you care to.</p>

<p>Vinny,<br>

if you know where you can find a Sinar P or P2 for a few hundred bucks I'd sure like to know. A Sinar F and a digital back is just an excercise in frustration.</p>

<p>Call Bob Carne at Elevator in Toronto (or whoever you are planning on using for output) and see what the output options are, that will determine how it's shot. Personally, I'd got to 8x10, at the least.</p>

<p>Thomas, I suggest you research a bit better, Kodak has seen a leveling off (and in fact a rise in MF and LF film sales), have introduced 3 new emulsions in the last 18 months and have committed to supporting film users.</p>

<p>Turntables are alive and well, mostly in the high end, and new albums are being released constantly, many contemporary bands often prerelease vinyl.</p>

<p>at 20x24, things start to get interesting. 14x17 flim is available from several sources (ultrafine has a lith flim that's available in .007 thickness)</p>

<p>Not neccesarily, a used luna pro can be had for cheap, KEH has an ultrapro (more than you'll likely ever need or want) for around $110, far less than a metering prism.</p>

<p>you'd be far better suited with a hand held meter.</p>

<p>My cost is around $1.00 for processing a roll of 120/35/4-4x5/1-8x10, mostly the chemistry cost. Best part is that if need be, I can have dry negatives in about 35mins.</p>

<p>How handy are you? I've made numerous ones out of 3/8-16 brass threaded rod, a drill and taps. Alternately, one can find threaded inserts for the machining trade with standard ID and OD threads as well. (try McMaster-Carr)</p>

<p>Sounds like it's time to pick up a tank and some chemistry, once you start souping your own, you'll never go back.</p>

<p>The barrels are anodized, mild solvents won't bother them whatsoever, the only part to be careful about is the engraved lettering.</p>

<p>My 60CT1 and CT2 get regular use with my 500EL and RB67, just need a sync cord and camera bracket (though I use a Mecamet with an off camera bracket as well)</p>

<p>a gray card and a hand held meter would give you the answer in about 10 seconds.</p>

<p>If you are at all handy, a 9v clip, two small pieces of copper and a film can with the end cut off work as well, takes about 5 mins.<br>

Michael, is the EL/M for sale as is?</p>

<p>that is definately not Schneideritis. Schneideritis has zero effect on image quality, and virtually every Schneider lens from the late 70's/early 80's onward shows varying degrees of it.<br>

I have several examples that I or others I know have owned since new, never abused (and in my case, never taken out of climate controlled studio conditions as well) and they all show dgrees of it.<br>

At some point Schneider changed the paint that they use to blacken the edges of the cells, and it just plain doesn't adhere as well as the old tried and true lacquers (which likely have been illegal to use after the time they changed them, and probably the reason for the change).</p>

<p>Michael,<br>

That is the reason I went to the 9V approach on my EL. The previous owner had the original NiCd batteries swell and nearly explode, he was able to get the cover reasonably straight again, and he replaced them with NiMh replacements. Since buying it, I use the 9v approach, spares are cheap, you can use a 9v NiMh from Thomas Ditributing, if you're more of the rechargable bent. If you are interested, I have the two NiMh batteries sitting here I'd sell fairly inexpensively (they're less than 3 yrs old)<br>

As far as covers, your best bet will be a junk/for parts body on fleabay, the covers by themselves fetch a pretty penny.<br>

erie</p>