wogears

<p>The ScanDual models were all pretty good. The only problem is that they lack an infrared channel, and cannot do hardware dust and scratch removal.</p>

<p>The Bronica is a very capable camera, and the lenses are pretty good. The 'quality' is neither better nor worse than a DSLR. It is <em>different.</em> Film, including scanned film, has a different response to light than that of a digital sensor. You may prefer one over the other, but that only means that it is better in your eyes. Get a roll of Portra 400 or Ektar 100 and shoot your usual subjects. Have fun. Enjoy. Send the film to a lab like <a href="http://www.northcoastphoto.com/">North Coast Photo</a> or<a href="http://www.richardphotolab.com/"> Richard Photo Lab</a> and have them scan it. See what you think--it doesn't really matter what any one else thinks.</p>

<p>What focus modes are you using? How many points, and what area?</p>

<p>Progris Riport: Have removed front and rear lens groups of Lens A (good shutter). Will now attempt swap of groups from Lens B into said good shutter. Once I have verified success on this, I will attempt to repair the shutter of Lens B (which could be interesting). I will then un-Mickey (dis-Mantle) the lens group with the hazy element(s) and see what ROR will do for them.</p>

<p>Mag: Whether or not I unmount the shutter assembly.</p>

<p>Charles: Appreciate the response. The haze on Lens A is some sort of chemical fogging. I would have to remove the lens element(s) that suffer from this and remove the coating. Lot of work, even though an uncoated viewing lens is not a huge problem.</p>

<p>Hello!</p> <p>Some time ago, I bought a 65mm lens (cheap) for my Mamiya C330f. The taking lens had a great deal of haze, so a repairman swapped the viewing and taking lenses. Now the haze has gotten too heavy for accurate focus. I just bought another (equally inexpensive) 65mm lens which (according to an ebay dealer with very good feedback) has clean glass, but a malfunctioning shutter. Here's the question: which of the following obvious possibilities is my best choice? (The hazed/good shutter lens in hereinafter referred to as "Lens A"; the unhazed/bad shutter lens as "Lens B".)</p> <p>1) Swap the lens groups from Lens B into the good shutter of Lens A (I assume I have to change viewing and taking lenses to keep a matched pair?)</p> <p>2) Try to repair the bad shutter of Lens B.</p> <p>3) Replace the malfunctioning shutter of Lens B with the good shutter of Lens A.</p> <p>Second part of question. I think I can simply unscrew the front and rear lens groups/cells from the shutter, without extensive tear-apart of the lens? I can probably handle the latter, but I should be able to avoid it?</p> <p>Thanks to all,<br> Les</p>

<p>Jon: From what I see on your site, stick to the 'Blad. Your work is excellent, and the film 'look' is beautiful. (I'd lose the poem, though. Just IMJO.) Whoever is scanning your images on the Noritsu is doing a good job as well, although a drum scan might be preferable.</p> <p>As to the Fuji, I have an X-E1, and it does very well in low light. You say you are shooting at f8--you are stopping down too far. Fuji lenses are very good, so you could shoot at f4 or wider if need be.</p>

<p>And a Pentax Spotmeter too! Seriously, a nice video about a guy who made his own way in the world.</p>