david_h._hartman

July 24, 2006

R. Jackson,

This is what it's about: I spent about 20 minutes, I'm a slow

writer, writing a detailed but somewhat scattered response then

the stupid filtering on PHOTO.NET gave some line about

speculating on unreleased cameras. I then wrote that terse

complaint and e-mailed Scott directly as follows.

Please accept my apology for the strange post.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

PS: If anyone wants to read my intended post please e-mail me

directly and Ill forward a copy. R. Jackson Ive

already sent you a forward to your listed e-mail address with the

note above as the lead in.

July 24, 2006

To hell if there is a problem with my post: it is your filter. My

post had absolutely no speculation about future cameras. This

obsession with filtering and speculation is absurd.

July 20, 2006

They can't make it too good or it will cut into

sales of the D200. --Tom Burke

Tom: isn't that the exact thing they said about the D200

and the D2x back when those rumors were flying? --Dmitriy

Kostyuchenko

and that is what actually happened. The D200s AF is

not as good as the D2Xs AF by a wide margin nor is the

viewfinder as good but its pretty decent. The price is much

easier on the wallet and the D200 is the right camera for many.

Regards,

Dave Hartman.

July 20, 2006

I'm not sure it [can] even handle the DNG format.

--Ellis Vener

If there is a plugin available it can, if not then it cannot. For

example NEF support for Photoshop 7.0 comes from Nikon View (free

from Nikon) or other Nikon software such as Capture 4 but was not

native to PS7. I do not know of a DNG plugin for PS7. Anyone?

Best,

Dave Hartman.

---

...am I better off just delving into Photoshop and not

learning the Nikon software at all? --Ray Donato

I think you will want both (Capture 4 or NX) and PS7. If you have

the funds you should upgrade Photoshop also.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 20, 2006

Eric,

According to the histograms the first image is in deed over

exposed as there is clipping of all three color channels. The sky

is blown out at the level of the distant mountains. There is no (straight)

fix for this fault, you could paint in a sky.

The second image is normally exposed to a trifle under with low

gamma. This image is easily improved with the curves pallet and

or levels in Photoshop or a similar program. If there is an NEF

image available Id probably increase the exposure about 1/6th

stop then use curves to increase the gamma and otherwise tune it

to my taste. Do not use brightness and contrast as these cause

clipping and loss of image data and quality.

This is a matter of getting to know the camera. With film you

would use an exposure index to make minor corrections for camera,

specific film or taste. With a DSLR you use exposure compensation

or manual exposure.

Really, though, you'd think that for a grab shot on a

sunny day you wouldn't have to worry about exposure.

With negative film you would not, with digital and transparency

film you often do. The scene has a rather long dynamic range from

the white clouds to the deep shadows in the coniferous forest.

This type of shot could easily be bracketed. It appears that you

chimped and then took another shot which is almost the same as

bracketing.

Regards,

Dave Hartman.

July 19, 2006

I did something similar with an F5 feature sometime ago and someone here gave me a page number. It was right in front of my nose but I missed it several times. Now I use the PDF manual and usually find what I need fairly quickly. I've almost never opened my D2H hard copy due the the PDF.

Best,

Dave.

July 19, 2006

Given Chris post you might check your serial number here...

<a href="http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html"

target="_new">http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html</a>

-dhh

July 19, 2006

Jim,

Sometimes computers crash. Maybe it just needed to get

electronically cold, maybe you have a problem with the electronic

contacts and they need cleaning (always check for the low tech

problems first); maybe you have an intermittent failure?

Hopefully not, they are the worst to get repaired as they

basically do not exist unless a repair tech sees it occur.

I had a Nikon MD-12 that failed. I cleaned the contacts and then

open it up. I called a camera repairman friend and asked him to

order a circuit board. His reply was, Did you clean the

contacts? I said, Yes, but Ill do it again. I cleaned the

contacts again as described below and this MD-12 has never give

problems since. Cross your fingers and keep reading ;)

Clean the contact by scrubbing then with a series of barely damp

Q-Tips. I use regent grade methyl alcohol, the same thing I use

for cleaning modern Nikkor lenses. You might use ethyl alcohol

but methyl is a bit stronger. Ethyl is safe for most any focus

screen, YMMV and your methods are very important or the screen

will be damaged. Canon viewing screens will be damaged by methyl

alcohol.

I do not use nor recommend pencil erasers as they are abusive and

damage platted contacts. They may leave residue and they leave

bits and pieces of themselves behind.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

PS: on second though the lens is hopeless, just send it to me ;-)

July 18, 2006

The easiest way to find this stuff is to do a search of the

PDF manual using Adobe Reader 7.0.x (or whatever is current)

using its search tools.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 18, 2006

1) Yes, see page 151 in your D200 manual.

2) Don't know, sorry.

July 16, 2006

The 105/2.5 is too long for a portrait lens on the DX formats.

There is no magic in the number 105. A 105/2.4 is the normal lens

for a Pentax 6x7. If a 105mm lens is made that covers 4x5 it

would be a wide angle and if a 105mm lens covered 8x10 it would

be a super wide angle. There is NO magic in the number 105.

What do you want in a portrait lens? The right balance of

sharpness and background rendition and the angular view to give

the image crop you want at the distance that gives the

perspective want.

Here is my advice: keep the 85/1.8 as its a good lens for

tight head shots. Consider a 50/1.2 or if the wallet is really

fat a 58/1.2 Noct for 3/4 length shots. Finally pray for a 70/1.4

AF Nikkor to cover the gapping hole in Nikons DX lens

system.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

<rant>

If Nikon management were really serious about this DX thing there

would be a 70/1.4 or something close to replace the 105/2.5 AIS.

They have had enough years to develop such a lens. There is no

excuse.

Nikon had a full system of lenses in 1970 when I started serious

photograph. In 1978 when I started my second Nikon system they

had a magnificent system of lenses. Now they have bits and pieces

and a bunch of cash cow consumer super zooms. This is pathetic.

Give Nikon the benefit of the doubt? No, they have wasted too

many years. Postulate reasons why they dont

have these lenses yet? Hell no, they have wasted too many years.

</rant>

July 15, 2006

I finally hear a voice in the woods... --W.

Ditto, III

At least you didnt say God was sitting on your ear talking

to you. I had a neighbor once who said this. I stayed righteous

away from him.

This PHOTO.NET Life Of Optical Poverty has more to do with a

certain young man who traveled to Carthage in about 370 AD and

spent a decade or so in riotous living before getting

religion than anything to do with photography. Moreover

there is no Silver Bullet, physical such as buying another lens

or psychological such as selling another lens. If you want to

improve your photography, practice and study.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 15, 2006

I am trying not to fall into to the dreaded NAS.

--Armando Roldan

The quickest way to be exposed to lethal doses of the Nikon

Acquisition Syndrome (NAS) is to read forums such as this,

because... Roger S

Guys: NAS is not evil; NAS is good. (sm) As soon as you loose the

guilt you can get on with growing your system and enjoying your

NAS. Ya! Screw guilt!

Heres a helpful tip: <a

href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home;jsessionid=G4Cd0PLvZh!-1047952057?O=NavBar&A=FetchChildren&Q=&ci=4603"

target="_new">bookmark B&H Photo</a>, front and

center and <a

href="http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/CategoryTableOfContents.aspx"

target="_new">make KEH.com your home page!</a>

Best, not the other stuff,

Dave Hartman.

July 14, 2006

...isn't it about time for a seperate place for

those of us who don't give a rat's rearend about digital?

--Wayne Cornell

I have mixed feelings about this as I shoot both film and digital.

<rant>

I feel the rush to all digital is a mistake as many will never

know the generous dynamic range offered by color and b&w

negatives. I feel digital in a 35mm style DSLR is totally

inappropriate for wedding photography. I just shoot 750 plus

candids over three days covering all but the bachelor &

bacheloret parties and ceremony. I was not the official but an

invited photographer. I tried to locate a brick of NPH but only

came up with three rolls on NPH in a fifteen mile radius so I

gave up on film. I was planing to shoot TX and digital until two

hours before the rehearsal when I was asked to shoot all color.

Its pretty much impossible to hold the brides dress and

grooms tuxedo in one photograph. I notice that most

photographers do the same as I did, hold the brides dress and let

the tuxedo and dark hair go featureless. Yuck!

</rant>

I also suspect that a lot of long time Pnet Nikon users

are drifting off to other forums because they no longer feel like

this forum has as much to offer them now that the digital crowd

has taken over. --Wayne Cornell

I agree but think its a bit more generalized as

knowledgeable digital and mixed shooters drift off also.

If 99% of the posters read, and tried to understand

their D camera's owners manuals, this forum would be the "Olympus"

forum. --Steve Levine

I dont think its quite that bad but sometimes it sure

as hell seems that way. Its a generalized problem with

todays lazy computer users. Here is an article by John C.

Dvorak on this phenominon...

<a href="http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,1759,1787713,00.asp"

target="_new">http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,1759,1787713,00.asp</a>

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 11, 2006

Greg,

The first example (now deleted due to over limit) was sharp in

the foreground but the background was both out of focus due to

limited DOF and atmospheric haze cut in to the contrast making

the background quite unsharp. I wonder if I noticed some camera

movement in the foreground. I may be a coward but I try to keep

the shutter speed up to 1/250 while hand holding a 50~55mm lens.

Im not one who believes everything should be shot from a

tripod but there value is not lost on me. I do own four tripods

for various use.

The sharpest aperture for the 55/2.8 AF Micro will be f/5.6 if its

optically close to the 55/2.8 AIS. I believe difference between

these lenses is the implementation of the CRC not the basic

optical formula. I note that Roland Vink groups these lenses

together and notes the same element and group count.

If I take special precautions, breathing, how I release the

shutter, arm position and especially sit or lean on a solid

object (with luck) I can go below 1/Focal Length with a 50~55mm

lens on 35mm format. Standing? I dont expect useful results.

I dont know the history of this rule but I think its

really for 3x5 inch prints. It was around when I bought my first

35mm SLR in 1970. It does not work for me for an 8x10 inch print.

Unsharpened images from a D50 or any current Nikon DSLR? I dont

think so, not for general subjects, due to the anti-aliasing

filter. I prefer to sharpen in software but Ill always

sharpen an image a touch. My DSLR is a Nikon D2H and it has a

rather non-aggressive AA filter. I still sharpen almost

everything. A trick Ill use for older women is sharpen a

layer in Photoshop then mask the face with a ruby mask, feather

the edges, reverse the selection, and delete the skin around the

eyes, mouth etc. Its like a soft focus filter thats

always there. The object is to draw attention to the eyes and

mouth. Another trick I use is to whiten the teeth in a teeth only

layer then draw the opacity back until they are just stained

enough to look natural. When I was a kid there was add on TV with

the jingle, Youll wonder where the yellow went, when

you bush you teeth with Pepsodent. I always think of that

when Im Photoshoping someones teeth.

I think almost everyone who is new to a DSLR has some doubts

about the sharpness of the images from their new camera if they

are looking at truly unsharpened images. Also from reading this

forum I see many who think their images are under exposed when

really the gamma is simply low and the image needs a touch with

curves or levels. Some complain of low color saturation and under

exposure together. A slight S curve can increase the

mid-tone brightness as well as give a gentle kick to the

saturation. Im normally doing this to give a touch of extra

mid-tone contrast. Sometimes Ill back off the color

saturation as an S can add considerably to the

saturation. I consider this all a part of getting used to a DSLR.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 10, 2006

AA requires a photo-sensor on the face of the speedlight.

July 10, 2006

...(or AA if you're using an external unit), the pre-flash

won't be fired. --Dmitriy Kostyuchenko

Thats what I though some time ago but some cameras use a

preflash even with AA (Auto Aperture). The D200 is most likely

one of them. Check the upper left hand corner of the SB-800. If

you see a double lightning bolt the camera will use a preflash no

matter what mode or camera the flash is mounted on.

If using the built in flash in the D200 I do not believe AA is

available. Please check your D200 manual. Auto Aperture is not

available with the SB-600.

---

In general, you do not get pre flash when rear curtain

synch is set on the camera. --Joseph Smith

i-TTL cameras always use a preflash with any form of TTL flash,

there are no exceptions. The preflash can be done manually with

the FV Lock feature. This allows removing the preflash from the

shutter activation and actual taking of the photograph. The FV

Lock is a toggle type operation. One press to activate, one press

to cancel. This allows using one preflash for multiple shoots.

With preflash take nothing for granted. The F5 and SB-800 use a

preflash when using balanced TTL flash. If in doubt check for the

double lighting bolt symbol in the upper left corner of the SB-800s LCD panel.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 10, 2006

The late Galen Rowell is said to prefer them on

hiking. --JS BC

Galen Rowells primary camera at the time of his death was

the Nikon F100. Ironically a photograph used in the original

Nikon F100 sales campaign was shot with a Nikon FM10. It should

be remembered that Galen used very light cameras at rather high

altitudes. A very light camera is not always an advantage, it can

even be a disadvantage but when rapid mobility is difficult due

to thin air Galen chose the most practical equipment and that

could include the Nikon FM10.

Galen also used the Nikon N80 when he needed to travel very light.

However the quite robust Nikon FM2n is not particularly heavy

compared to the more plastic N80. The N80 weighs 566g with a 1

nylon strap and (2) CR123A lithium batteries; the FM2n weighs 571g

(only 5g more) with 1 nylon strap and one DL-1/3N lithium

battery.

Ive used the FM2, FE2 and FM2n as a backup and also as a

light weight alternate to the Nikon F2As, F4s/F4 and F5. I

sometimes use the F100 as a light weight alternate to the F5 and

as a backup. I perfer having a choice as the lightest camera is

not always the best.

I used to go backpacking often and 11,000 to 13,000 feet was not

unusual. I normally carried two Nikon F2 Phonemics and three or

four lenses. I never had altitude sickness but I do remember one

afternoon and on to sunset where was just too tied to bother with

photography. After returning to camp, eating and resting for

about an hour I was feeling good again. A pair of FM2(s) rather

than F2(s) might have made a difference. Eating a decent lunch

surely would have. I think we topped 13,000 feet on a half day

hike from camp.

Anyway I can highly recommend the FE2, FM2n or even F3/F3HP in

clean used condition given todays prices.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 10, 2006

Michael,

It looks like you are on a tight budget and have a manual focus

camera. It would help to know for sure but here are my

suggestions based on these assumptions.

24/2.8 AI

35/2.0 AI

105/2.5 AI

The 75~150/3.5 Series E is a fine lens provided that you avoid

the very early version that had a really cheap stamped rear lens

guard and maximum aperture indexing post. It was a piece of junk.

According to Roland Vinks Website you should be fine with

Serial No. 1855721 and higher.

Here is the bad one...

<a href="http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/e75150.jpg"

target="_new">http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/e75150.jpg</a>

Here is the basic link...

<a href="http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html"

target="_new">http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html</a>

In a review I saw in Modern Photography magazine the 75~150/3.5

E was tested sharper in the center than the 105/2.5 but not as

sharp at the edge. There were excellent ratings all

over the place for both. The zoom is almost always sloppy on

these lenses but you live with it (and its not too hard)

for the excellent optical performance.

If you shoot portraits candid or formal then I recommend the 105/2.5

AI over the 75~150/3.5 Series-E. The background rendition of the

105/2.5 AI is really beautiful at large apertures and portrait

distances. If Im shooting a willing subject I find the 105/2.5

AI much easier in handling. If photographs of people are less

important the you might prefer the zoom. Its a great walk-around

lens. The 100/2.8 Series-E is a quite good lens but as I recall

its not multi-coated.

Ive recommended AI lenses because they generally sell for

less than AIS lenses. Otherwise I tend to prefer AIS for lenses

longer than 50mm and AI for those shorter than 50mm. The AIS

lenses have a faster, smoother focus compared to the AI lenses.

The AI lens have a longer throw on the focus and so have more

useful DOF and distance markings.

Another lens you might consider is the 55/3.5 AI Micro-Nikkor. As

a kid I was always frustrated with minimum shooting distance of

box cameras. My first SLR lens was a 55/3.5 Micro Nikkor-P.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 9, 2006

When was the M2 ring made? --Steve Levine

Im guessing some but Id say 1969 to early 1975. The M2

Tube was superceded by the PK-3 Tube which is a pre-AI, meter

coupled tube using rabbit ears. I believe the introduction of the

PK-3 Tube coincided with the introduction of the 55/3.5 Micro-Nikkor

K-type.

As for the "M2", neither KEH or B&H has

one new or used? --SL

Thats strange, I stopped trying to corner the market on

these when I bought my D2H about 15 months ago ;) For a while I

added an M, M2, E2 or K-Ring Set to every lens purchase. The most

I recall paying for an E2 ring was $16.00 (like new) and for the

M2 tube $10.00 (probably LN-).

The discussion of these tubes here at PHOTO.NET probably drives

sales at KEH.com at least to some extent.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

PS: Have you checked eBay or B&H Photo? I bought a BR-4 Ring

from B&H.

July 9, 2006

"...on my D2X." SHB "...on my D2H."

July 8, 2006

With such a short focus through I don't see the

utility in AF. I'm not a AF person so others may disagree.

--Eric James

For a lot of photography I agree. Under some situations, events

photography for example, I find AF very useful. Then again Id

want an f/2.8 zoom that covers 24mm rather than a 24/2.8 prime.

Im not too impressed with my 24/2.8 AI on DX. I really have

not used the lens much but as I recall CA was a problem. When I

want that focal length (or close) I prefer my 25~50/4.0 AIS

Nikkor. It seem counter intuitive but the 25~50/4.0 AIS performs

quite nicely on DX.

I really wish Nikon would design a new 24/2.0. Perhaps they could

shrink the 28/2.0 AIS and add an ED element to control chromatic

aberrations. Id also like an 18/2.0. This is both serious and

a bit of a joke, the shrink part that is.

There are times when I miss fast, wide primes and then there are

times were I want a medium fast zoom, will stop down to f/5.6 and

use flash.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

---

Oh and while we're at it.. does anyone know about the

105/2.8 micro AIS vs. AF? --Dave Osborne

Im currently liking my 105/4.0 AI and 70~180/4.5~5.6D ED AF

Micro-Nikkors on my D2X. Bjorn Rorslett gives the 105/2.8 AIS

Micro-Nikkor high marks on the D2X, (5) for near subjects.

<a href="http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_spec.html"

target="_new">http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_spec.html</a>

<a href="http://www.naturfotograf.com" target="_new">http://www.naturfotograf.com</a>

Regards,

Dave Hartman.

July 8, 2006

1) Which is sharper in terms of spatial etc.

--MS Keil

Im I alone on this page as one who understands the

importance of perspective in a portrait, formal or candid, or am

I just too lazy to read all the responses?

But please don't make this subject for the current

discussion (i.e., to what sizes sensors and Megapixels may grow

etc.). --MS Keil

To what size sensors may grow is very relevant. If you understood

perspective in a photograph and how focal length relates to

format you would not say this. Ill try once more, then Ill

give up...

With a 105mm lens on the DX formats you are going to need to

backup a fair distance to get a tight head shot let alone a head

and shoulders image. This distance will flatten the perspective

which in turn makes the subject look aloof (distant emotionally,

reserved, remote). Is this what you want?

MS Keil, your list of technical questions do not matter much

unless you want the lens for something other than photographing a

person with a feeling of emotional connection between subject and

viewer. The magic of the 105/2.5 Nikkor on 24x36mm is in the

typical shooting distance not the number 105 and in

the balance of optical qualities. Only part of these translate

intact to the DX format.

Regards,

Dave Hartman.

July 8, 2006

In my current view, Nikon management is trying to destroy the

company while impassioned engineers struggle to bring their

photographic dreams to market. Two thumbs up (one on each

imperial hand) for the management. Thats about the last

thing a gladiator ever saw.

July 8, 2006

So has anyone found me a Beautiful DP&S with a big, crisp,

parallax corrected viewfinder? No DP&S will look comely to me

without this feature.

---

...I am actually doing so as a Nikon-supporter, wishing

that the home-team could be doing a better job of beating the

opposition.

We chastise those we love?

Best,

Dave Hartman.

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