david_h._hartman

August 7, 2006

The question is concerning how does one

differentiate between photography and art? --Soumya Simanta

How does one differentiate between painting and art?

Im not sure there is any ture definition to art.

To me a work calls to the emotions or not but this cant

really be put into words as art is quite non-verbal. Even poetry

is much more than the words used. Artist have flowery

vocabularies to describe a work but for visual art you really

need to see the particular work, for auditory art you need to

hear it.

There is a joke about Californians. How many Californians does it

take to screw in a light bulb? Five, one to screw in the bulb and

four to share the experience. I dont have the flowery

vocabulary so I generally stay way from discussions about art. To

share the experience I need to see or hear the work.

I was at a museum in Boston and saw a famous painting. There is a

man lying on the deck of a boat that is disabled. I remember the

feeling of the sunlight on the man and boat and the intense

feeling of loneliness. The actual painting called to my emotions

in a way that reproductions in books never had. There was no

mistake, this was art.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

August 7, 2006

Bo,

Why not put the camera on the tripod. Set the camera to manual

exposure. With the tripod head loose determine your exposure

using center-weighed or spot metering, focus, recompose, lock the

tripod head and shoot. This assumes you are not too close to your

subject and are not shooting with a fast lens at a large aperture.

The problem when these are combined is the focus winds up behind

the subject when you recompose. This is a matter of geometry.

There is a point at which automation becomes more trouble than its

worth. Thats when I switch to manual ways. I prefer a hand

held meter often when using a tripod as its more natural

for me.

If you had a newer professional camera such as the D2H, D2X or F6

Id recommend selecting the focus area with the camera

tripod mounted. Matrix metering is mindful of which

AF point is selected and this changes the way in which the camera

and 1005 pixel meter sensor determines the exposure. You might

find a way to do this with the F80 but the only really useful AF

sensor on the F80 is the central censor. Im not sure how

useful matrix metering is with the F80 as Ive only shoot

one roll of color negative film with a N80.

I hope something here helps.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

August 6, 2006

Foolishly, I was working on my original scan, so now

I'll have to rescan. --Robert Lai

Its best to archive the original scan and work with a

duplicate. You probably have that figured out. It's easy to know something and ignore it when you want to get on with work. Once

this is a habit its quite easy. I add a number symbol # to the end of archive images.

Another trick is to duplicate the original layer, the background,

and make all modifications on layers above this one. This way you

always have the original to refer to. This does add to the size

of the file so I may not work if HD space is at a premium.

A CD and now a DVD burner is essential for digital images. I

finally broke down and bought a internal DVD. Its not what

I wanted but it was only $88.97. I really wanted a drive that I

could set beside my display rather than one in the computer on

the floor. CD(s) are just too small these days.

---

This program is a godsend, and saved me days of

spotting on the computer! -- Robert Lai

Ill screen dump this thread and archive it. I hope I can

find it when I need it. I can borrow an old Polaroid Sprint Scan

Plus from time to time. Even though that scanner is a diffusion

type Ive spend more than an hour on single a image spotting.

Thanks for sharing this.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

August 5, 2006

I recommend the fifth battery option included in the SB-800

kit (no extra cost). The batteries I recommend are the 2500mAh

Eveready NiMH AA(s) or I just noticed Duracell now offers 2630 or

2640mAh NiMH AA(s). Stay with a top brand that offers a repair or

replace guarantee. Others but not in anyway complete are Sanyo,

Panasonic, etc. For a local retailer Wal-Mart seems to be the

best in the USA.

It helps to have a battery charger with individual channels so

that it will charge one AA cell. This way you can charge just

five batteries in two 4 cell chargers. I recommend a combination 4

hour and 16 hour changers. Understand that the faster the charge

the more stress on the battery and the shorter the life. NiMH

batteries will be warm when the finish charging but they should

not be hot.

If shorter battery life is worth the cost then 15 minute and 1

hour chargers may suit you. I know this cuts battery life but I

normally have some batteries, about a dozen, ready in 16 hour

chargers.

The best information on batteries that Ive found is at this

link...

<a href="http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-23.htm"

target="_new">http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-23.htm</a>

I suggest reading the above then go to the home page and explore.

Its a good idea to have AA alkalines in reserve but I do

not like using them in a speedlight. When these backups get older

they go into flashlights and such. I do not use AA alkaline

batteries in cameras except as a last resort. Alkaline batteries

are more prone to leak than NiCd, NiMH and Lithium batteries as

they have a one shot over-pressure vent. The others have a

resealing vent.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

August 4, 2006

Sandor,

I believe I used the "image comment" found in the setup

menu. Please see page 208 and 209 in your D2H manual. I don't

have my camera in hand to verify this. My comment is something

the information is a little flaky but once you get the hang of it

you do it and forget like me ;-)

Best,

Dave Hartman.

August 4, 2006

The camera will meter correctly even if the correct

information isn't set, but if it is you'll see the correct lens

and aperture used in the picture metadata. --Peter

Pawlyschyn

Setting an incorrect maximum aperture in the non-CPU lens data

while using matrix metering will cause exposure errors. The

greater the misinformation the greater the exposure error. It is

quite quick and easy to verify that setting the correct maximum

aperture is important to exposure accuracy by missetting the

maximum aperture by several stops. A small mismatch may hide

exposure errors.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

---

For those who do not want to use the shooting menu in the D2

Series and D200 there is always center-weighted metering, spot or

hand held meters. When using center-weighted metering you simply

install the lens and start shooting as though you were using an F3

or FM3a.

---

To control the aperture of an AIS lens with the subcommand dial a

chip must be installed converting the lens into an P type lens.

This is a conversion so it is correct to say that an AIS lens

aperture cannot be controlled by the sub-command dial. If a chip

is installed in an AI lens aperture preferred and manual are the

only modes that will meter and expose correctly due to the non-linear

activation of the aperture in pre-AIS lenses.

---

To use the Command and Subcommand dials to set the non-CPU data

quickly and correctly set custom setting f4: Assign FUNC.

Button to FV Lock/Lens Data. Please see page 170

and 171 in your D200 manual. The D2H(s) and D2X use the same

custom setting to control the Function Button. Please note that a

Nikon i-TTL Speedlight will preempt the Function Button for the

Flash Value Lock if one is mounted and turned on.

To set the non-CPU lens data by menu use the Shooting Menu.

Please see page 132 in your D200 manual.

Regards,

Dave Hartman.

August 2, 2006

Why not, why a bother?

This is covered pretty well above. Ill mention two

things: the general rule I learned was up to one glass filter and

up to three gels. The other is shading a lens like a 24/2.8 AI

with a hand or hat (a really bad flare and ghost lens) does more

than removing a filter. With the 24/2.8 I count one less ghost

pattern, perhaps 12 instead of 13, and flare is really bad either

way.

OK, I lied. Reflections of light sources like street lights, even

the moon, are so bad in night photography that a UV should come

off almost 100% of the time.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

PS: While I use UV(s) for protection on 35mm/DX and 6x6 I dont

use UV(s) with 4x5/6x9. Large format lenses are unprotected on

the rear group anyway. Inconsistent? Yes.

July 31, 2006

Margaret,

I normally use a the aperture preferred and manual exposure modes

and generally recommend these. When it comes to a digital P&S

camera Im more likely to use the program mode than any

others. This is just the way I do it. My P&S has an auto

mode besides the others and its different from

programmed. The programmed mode allows exposure compensation the

auto mode doesnt.

OK, Im going to switch here and recommend that you get some

time with your new D70 using the program mode. Later you can

learn more about your camera and its additional features but for

now I think you need to simplify. I think your best bet is to set

the camera to its defaults and use the simple guide to

taking pictures in the manual. I would even ignore picture

modes for now. Id start at page 1 and read through to

page 22. There is a tutorial starting on page 23. Id work

through this with the camera in hand. I'd continue to page 31,

basic playback. Then Id go out and have fun with the camera.

Dont be too hard on yourself if every picture doesnt

come out as you hoped, everyone started some where.

Using a DSLR is not rocket science. You can do it. I bought both

my mother and father Nikon FE2(s) when the camera was fairly new

on the market. My mom was best with her cameras. In particular

her composition was better. Both my mom and dad did pretty well

with focus and exposure.

There are many advantages to a DSLR over a DP&S and some

disadvantages. Its good to have both available.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 31, 2006

Alex,

I think the information you need is on page 150 in your D70s manual. I'm not a D70s or D70 owner so I can't test so I'll stop here.

You many find the PDF version of your camera and flash manuals easier to use than the paper versions. I use the search features built into Adobe Reader 7.x to locate information that is often not indexed. You do need to learn a bit of Nikon lingo to get the most from these. The index in most manuals leave a lot to be desired.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 30, 2006

Lisa,

My recommendation is buy your D200 as soon as possible. Its

always best to give new equipment a good trial run before going

on a trip. You want to be fully comfortable with it. Do take the

D70 on the trip as a backup.

I agree with most everything written above and particularly start

looking for a spare EN-EL3e battery or two.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 30, 2006

I have read Ken Rockwell's comparison of the 600 vs.

800 and it doesn't seem the added features on the 800 are worth

the extra cosst. --Jon E

I wonder if Ken Rockwell as actually used the SB-800? Anyway I do

not agree with Ken on this one. The SB-800 offers much more for

relatively little extra cost if you use more than stright, on

camera flash.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 30, 2006

Dave, thanks for a good laugh!

July 30, 2006

Soumya,

I like them. I had a set of photos swiped by a girl friend some

years ago where I was shooting similar martial. I used colored

foil wrapping paper to add color to clear or light green glass

objects. The lens I used was a 55/3.5 Micro Nikkor-P. Aside from

Kodachrome v. DSLR the setups must be very similar.

Best,

Dave.

July 30, 2006

Patrik,

I dont think there is any problem with the view finder on

your F4. Id spend some time and get the diopter adjustment

spot on. If you look at a distance then into the camera the eye

should not need to do any refocusing of its own. It should be

instantly in focus. The purpose of Nikons standard of a 1

meter viewing distance and a -1 diopter viewfinder power is they

cancel and the eye muscles need to do almost nothing so fatigue

is avoided.

Since the camera is new to you have yet to develop reflex for

centering the eye or so I surmise. This will come in time. With

high eye-point viewfinders its easy to get the eye out of

center. Lower eye-point finders force one to center their eye

carefully to see the complete frame.

I had a problem with rangefinder blackout in the F4 using a K

screen even with f/2.8 lenses. I normally have little problem

with lenses down to f/4.0 with a K screen. An f/4.5 lens starts

causing some problem and f/5.6 is hopeless. I returned the K

screen within about 48 hours. Otherwise I dont remember

problems with the F4 viewfinder compared to an F3HP or F5.

I wear glasses so some of the eye-point of these camera is used

by the additional distance. This must reduce the problem with eye

centering some though I prefer the F3 (DE-2) compared to the F3HP

(DE-3) as I dont need the extra eye-point. I notice some

variation in the apparent focus of the F3HP with a K screen due

to eye centering. Out of interest I was purposely decentering my

eye. Im left eyed.

I hope something here helps and I really dont think there

is anything wrong with your camera.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 25, 2006

Sorry about the dual post, I backed up to correct an error but managed to post the error first. The first post was not inteded.

Moderators please accept my apology.

Dave.

July 25, 2006

...in hot environment I cover my black equipment

with white paper or cloth. --Walter Schroeder

Excellent suggestion! I'm going to make it a pratice to carry a

clean white T-shirt for this purpose.

Long before they were common I made my own dark cloth with a

black and white layer. The black cuts light underneath and the

white above saves me from heat stroke. The dual layer dark cloth

is handy for protecting the black camera bellows from intense

sunlight and heat. I imagine that many savvy large format

photographers did this long before the manufactures caught on.

I got this idea from a race car called the shadow. It was all black.

The team found they could reduce the cockpit temperature by about

30 degrees Fahrenheit on hot sunny race days by painting the top

of the car white. The sides remained black. The Shadow raced in

the CAN-AM series in Canada and the United States. I also painted

a large aluminum army surplus case white and then compared it to

another that was still dark jungle olive drab. I found about a 30

degree difference inside after about an hour in the Southern

California sun.

Best,

Dave Hartman.

July 25, 2006