nickr

If you wear an automatic or mechanical watch it can magnetize the hairspring which will

make it run fast. Of course, you'd have to bring it close to the watch for that to happen but it

did happen to my Sinn.

I find that the SS Hewes reels with the two prongs sticking up in the center are the easiest to

use. I buy plastic tops for my SS tanks because I feel that I can pour the chemicals in faster

than through the typical SS top. I don't have a darkroom so I can't fill the tank first and then

dunk the reel into it.

I think you'd be better off thinking in terms of density curves geared to the overall contrast of

the scene you are photographing. Here's a site to get you started: <a href="http://

www.imx.nl/photosite/technical/BWinfo/BW-1.html">Link</a>

I'll also recommend the e-330. I can't think of another camera that delivers that much

quality for so little money at this time. I use a Chinese 4/3's adaptor and it works perfectly.

The only drawback is I think I had to wait about a month for it to get here (USA). Live view is

a must for legacy lenses. At least for my eyes, I need the 10x view.

There is a minimum amount of chemical you need to process so much emulsion regardless of

dilution. If you can't fit that much in your tank because of your dilution ratio you'll have to

use a different mix or buy a bigger tank.

I don't see how using B & W filters with a digital sensor gains you anything. If each pixel was

sensitive to the full spectrum of light, then, yes, a filter would get you bandwidth in the

remaining colors. But since pixels are already color specific on the sensor, then it should

make no difference whether you attenuate them during the shot with an on-camera filter or

later in software.

Congratulations on your purchase, Camila<br />

Check Flickr for photos tagged with Summarit, esp. those of junku-newcleus. I just bought a

Summarit last Sunday at a camera show so I haven't had a chance to see any results yet.

However, it has a nice feel, not too heavy, and the focusing tab is handy as Stephen

mentions. I was specifically looking for a lower contrast lens.

I use the liveview function on my E330 regularly. When using a high speed lens like the

Sigma 30/1.4 in low light, B mode 10X will allow me to focus accurately on a person's eyes.

Autofocus or normal viewfinder focus isn't accurate enough for me, at least. There are other

good uses for it as I'm sure others will chime in.

Here's the link:<br />

http://www.nickrivera.com/gallery2/main.php?

g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=326&g2_serialNumber=2<br />

Copy link as one line and paste

I believe it's age fog. It looks similar to results I got when I developed an old roll of film I

found in a Soviet camera I bought. <br />Here's an example from the roll: <a="http://

www.nickrivera.com/gallery2/main.php?

g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=326&g2_serialNumber=2">link</a><br />The

rest of the roll looked the same. New film exposed in the same camera appeared normal

after developing.

A tad late:<br />

<center><img

src="http://www.nickrivera.com/gallery2/main.php?

g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=233&g2_serialNumber=2"></center>

I recommend you practice ahead of time. Between now and the wedding, you should be

attending some affairs where people will be drinking, dancing, or partying in a formal or

semi-formal atmosphere. Bring you gear and try and take shots as if you are a professional

hired to take photos not as a casual guest photographer. You'll get use to telling people to

pose when they rather be partying. You'll get use to being the center of attention carrying

around a lot of gear. You have to get use to getting in people's faces. Part of any gig is

getting over the jitters. Afterwards, you'll see what works and what doesn't.

How did you pay? If by paypal or credit card do a charge back and send him back the lens.

They won't abide by such hairsplitting on his end. If you paid by check or MO, you're out of

luck. You're only hammer is the threat of negative feedback. Assure him that you will leave

neg feedback and see what happens.

Eastern coyote are larger than western coyote, about twice as big. <a href="http://

www.wildlife.state.nh.us/Wildlife/Wildlife_profiles/profile_eastern_coyote.htm">link</a>

They do kill house pets now and then.

Robert, if you use a Wein safe sync, HSHSB, with your oly, you can use just about any shoe

mount flash you can find.

Yeah, one stroke does it all the way through. However, did you remember to push the button

(s) back in on the bottom after loading the film? If not the roll can get loose and cause

problems.

<i>So: If there is an adapter to enable the use of R lenses on the Digilux 3, does that

mean that this same adapter will fit any 4/3 camera, and allow R lenses to be used on it as

well?</i><br />

<p>

It should since all 4/3's mounts meet the same standard. You can already buy Leica R to

4/3's adaptors on ebay <a href="http://search.stores.ebay.co.uk/ROXSEN_olympus-

leica_W0QQfciZQ2d1QQfclZ3QQfsnZROXSENQQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQfsubZ6QQftsZ2QQsase

lZ206515452QQsofpZ0">link</a>. The flange to focal-plane distance is so narrow on a

4/3's camera, basically any slr film camera lens can be adapted. Of course, it means

manual focus and stop-down metering.

To expand on Cebes point, I think, the M8 sensor is an electronic device and like any other

electronic device it could be put in any type of camera. It's the M sytstem of lenses that make

the M8 special. Does the M8 capture the look of those lenses in print? If it does, it's a

success. If it doesn't it's just another digicam.

I think Larry has it right. Digi P&S's have really captured most of the market that belonged to

RF's. Think of why'd you'd want an Rf: pocketability, anonymity, smaller lenses; all things

you'd find in a quality P&S. Unless you're hellbent on using M lenses, what would be the

point of a digi RF?