cosmic_c

Sorry - was looking at the wrong printer

 

Classic is for dye based printers only

Hello Sheryl

 

I just checked the ILFORD web site and they provide profiles for the Ilford Galerie Classic Pearl for the 2400 along with a file that gives instructions for printer settings. So give it a try

 

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/prod_html/galerie/ijprofiles/default.asp

Well they are on the Epson site - just not where people expect to find them. Use the link below.

 

Also make sure you have downloaded and installed the latest driver to use with these R1 profiles.

 

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/EditorialAnnouncement.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&oid=51716719

 

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I would say that the safe option is to do both, produce DVD and also copy to a second hard drive. There is no loss of information in copying digital files using file copy from one system device to another, so make as many copies as you need. Not sure I would want to rely on just a single copy to a DVD if I thought my hard drive was going to fail.

 

Another option is to get yourself an external USB hard drive enclosure and fit it with a suitably large hard drive instead of using DVDs. The Samsung 400GByte is good value at the moment.

 

Costas

Best check with your lab, but most of them expect you to send the image in a standard working space like sRGB. The print paper profile can be used for soft proofing how the image might look after printing, allowing you to make changes if you want - prior to printing. It is not a working space.

Create the second layer from the drop down layers menu on the toolbar

 

The box that appears lets you set some of the layer attribytes such as layer name and blending mode etc, but also contains a tick box that says something like

 

use mask from previous layer

 

Tick the box and it will associate the mask from the previous layer with the one you are now creating.

Quote

"when i take it to Wolf it usually comes out darker then i would prefer. Im not sure if i would have to lighten before uploading. any ideas?"

 

 

Sounds like you might need to look into profiling your monitor, only way to improve the match between print and screen.

Have a look at similar targets on the Kodak website, if it is identical to one of them - it might be from Kodak. If it is you can download the data file for free from the Kodak site, there are links with each target

You can download a copy from this site if you want something to compare with.

 

http://www.atncentral.com/download.htm#alys_bw

 

Just scroll down to Gorman BW Action

 

"stamp visible" creates a new layer containing the info you would get from flattening everything below it.

He means use the ALT key on a PC

 

You can instead use SHIFT+CTRL+ALT hold down together whilst pressing E

 

This creates a new layer containing the contents of the layers below it.

Hello Robert

 

In order to get the registration spot on, I found I had to do all the scans of the same negative one after the other. Most I have ever done is 3, but find 2 is usually fine. If the exposure differences are too great, then the blending starts to look false although that will depend on the subject matter. I also use manual focus and only set the focus for the first scan, that might also make a slight difference.

I posted this in the thread below, but also here in case anyone does not read lower down

 

After trying some of the suggestions here and in the other thread, I failed to make it work. So did some experimenting of my own and found a solution.

 

You need to set in

 

edit/preferences/memory and image cache

 

cache level to 1

 

Close and reload PS

 

The problem might be related to the use of real memory because the higher the cache level, the more memory is used.

 

Anyway - worked for me, post in the SmartSharpen thread below if it helps

 

Costas

After trying some of the suggestions here and in the other thread, I failed to make it work. So did some experimenting of my own and found a solution.

 

You need to set in

 

edit/preferences/memory and image cache

 

cache level to 1

 

Close and reload PS

 

The problem might be related to the use of real memory because the higher the cache level, the more memory is used.

 

Anyway - worked for me, post here if it helps

 

Costas

Your welcome Joseph

Robert

 

The 5400 can produce acceptable negative scans for the most of your negatives. There will always be a few difficult ones where you have to resort to using linear and converting yourself but let the scanner do the bulk of the work

 

Try this simple workflow for your negatives

 

Turn off colour matching

 

Use 16-bit negative settings

 

Use the pointer and RGB display in the exposure tab to ensure greys/whites do not have a colour cast

 

Use the exposure tab to adjust exposure to ensure there is no important clipping

Do not make changes using the other editing controls

 

 

When you open the image for editing, assign the negative profile Minolta 5400 Nega Input and convert to you favourite colour working space.

 

 

If having got the exposure right, you have blown highlights, then you will have to make a second exposure for just the highlights (or shadows) and blend the 2 scans. A quick way to do this on a PC is to paste the highlight image over the base one

 

CNTRL SHIFT ALT tilda to select the highlights on the top image

 

Click add vector mask in the layers palette

 

Select the mask and run Guasian blur 15 to 30 pixels on the mask to avoid hard transitions.

 

Paint on the mask for any other detail of interest

 

Thats it blended

 

Costas

Robert I find what you are doing a bit of a mystery. Lets just take a look at that. Assuming you are scanning slides in linear

 

The scanner produces its output (internal) in the posi-linear workspace. You make the scanner convert that to WideGamutRGB for output

 

You read the file into PS and convert from WideGamutRGB back to posi-linear and then assign (I think you mean convert!) to BestRGB. That is a lot of colour space conversions.

 

Turn off colour matching in the scanner software and it will create an output file in the posi-linear workspace. You then assign the posi-linear profile when you open the image and convert to your workspace (BestRGB) � that equals one colour space conversion

Joseph - you have mail

Yes Mendel - it places 2 ICC profiles in the directory you mentioned.

 

You will find the 3rd profile, in the directory I mention (although yours will probably be on drive C: rather than drive D: where I keep my photo progs). You then have to manually install it and you will have 3 Minolta profiles available to you, for Negative, Positive and Linear.

 

Costas

For some reason best known to themselves, Minolta ship the profile but do not instal it.

 

On a windows system look in

 

D:\Program Files\DiMAGEScan\DS_Elite5400\Profile

 

where you will find the 3 profiles shipped by Minolta. Right click on the file

 

MLTF5400n.icc

 

and select install to have it loaded into the system directory.

 

Costas

Hello Robert -

 

After you select the paper type and borderless printing on the 'Main' tab of printer pref. you need select the 'Page Layout tab' and move the slider named borderless expansion to minimum. The default is max which crops the image

Yes I agree, when I am looking for something, anytime I come across a flsh website it's onto the next site. Flash sites are just too much hassle to navigate, People who use flash must loose a lot of business.

I should have added that the advantage of keeping the scanned image in the scanners native colour space/profile is that you do not degrade it by converting it to another colour space. For example, had you scanned all your images as AdobeRGB or sRGB and now decided to use ProphotoRGB, those scans would have to be redone because you have lost the colour information. Had you scanned them to the native scanner work space, then its just a different conversion on opening the image.

 

Hope that helps

 

Costas

Michele - I use a Minolta scanner so am not familiar with the Nikon, but they probably work in a similar way for colour management.

 

Looking at the options displayed, I assume that ScannerRGB is the Nikon profile for the scanner and gives the best the scanner can generate. So select that (ScannerRGB) and when you open the image in Photoshop assign ScannerRGB to it (if the file was not tagged) and then convert to your work space eg ProphotoRGB or Ectaspace - can do all that in the open dialogue if you set the colour preferences that way.

 

Alternatively, scan with Nikon colour management turned off and assign the relevant positive or negative scanner profile when opening the file in photoshop, then convert to the colour space. Its all done on opening the file. That is what I do with the Minolta 5400 and seems to give me my best results.

An interesting question but you are assuming that colour spaces and output printer profiles all neatly fit within each other. What you will find is that bits of the printer space are outside the area covered by some profiles even though the colour space might have a larger volume than the printer. So if use a working colour space that does not include ALL parts of the output space, you will not be able to faithfully reproduce some colours contained in your image. Quite often it is not an issue for some images.

ImageMagick provides a set of command line tools and interfaces that let you use it from Windows command prompt.

 

The command line utility you want is called CONVERT and is installed along with all the other ImageMagick components. You can set up a simple .BAT file to execute it if you want to do it repeatedly. The -filter type is where you specify Lanczos as the method to be used.

 

http://www.imagemagick.org/script/convert.php

 

http://www.imagemagick.org/script/command-line-options.php#filter