mark_dalrymple1

<p>my common sense says that all these plug-ins use photoshop manipulation to achieve all they do<br>

Then we're all getting ripped off by spending hundreds of dollars for script macros :-) Fundamentally, plugins are given a big chunk of pixels, and the plugin can do whatever they want. There is no direct correspondence to (or necessarily reliance upon) Photoshop features. </p>

<p><br /></p>

<p>@joseph - a couple of reasons. A laptop is easier to transport and power than a monitor on location (that's the big thing - speedlites and laptop means not having to find a power socket or manage extension cords). It's also form of on-site backup (image in the camera, one on the laptop - but that's secondary). </p>

<p>What I ultimately want to do while shooting a woodwind quintet (friends) is during the individuals, I want the other four to see what's going on, if nothing else to keep them entertained and not complaining having nothing else to do. (I do know my friends well :-) Also letting them see the images during the group shots while I'm up on a ladder.</p>

<p>Thanks for the HDMI reminder - that'll be very useful when I'm in the studio.</p>

<p><br /> <img src="http://borkware.com/hacks/angel-light.jpg" alt="" /><br>

D3, 70-200, red-gelled flash for the background</p>

<p>Pan and zoom work fine with both LiveView modes (hand-held and tripod mode). Use the 9-square-button + main control wheel to zoom in. You can then use the direction pad to scoot around. (just verified on my D3)</p>

<p>I use it, fairly often. Especially for macro and product shots. One of the main reasons for getting the D3.</p>

Looks like the 800 is being discontinued, and liquidated in some places. The 800 can act as a CLS commander, and it

also has a PC connector for remote flash (easier connecting when using a remote trigger like a pocket wizard), and an

optical flash trigger. The 900 does what the 800 can, plus some more power, various "light shaping" tools, and revamped

UI.

 

I have a 600 and an 800, and would rather have two 800's. Right now when I use pocketwizards, I need a hotshoe adapter

(which doesn't fit well, so I have a shim rigging) for the 600 and use the optical trigger for the 800 when using both. Haven't

used the 900.

I'm a bookworm and have just about everything. I've enjoyed Thom's books and the Magic Lantern guides, as well as all

the other books I've read. They all have different slants in how they cover stuff. It's been awhile since I read the D200 ML

guide, but I remember it being approachable and easy to read. Thom's books are exhaustive in their coverage, and a dryer

read. ML I'll read propped up in bed, Thom's I'll sit down and study :-)

"Wow. Did a Mac user just admit to a lock-up??? :)~"

 

Nah, just that the software decided to go south and contemplate its navel. The OS is still alive and kicking.

Daniel: Indeed.

 

I iike poines. how about everyone else?

Does a lens really wear out after 50k exposures?

Did you erase the camera's memory card from the computer? Sometimes that can leave the card in a state that confuses

the camera.

 

If so, try formatting the card in the camera (you'll lose any pictures on the card) There's two buttons with red labels by

them. Hold them down until "For" blinks on the upper deck, then press them again. (I don't have a D70s, but that's how

other nikon DSLRs operate)

The nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 *non*-VR is really cheap - $135 at B&H. It's screw-drive focusing (so probably manual focus

on the D50, which may be a deal killer for you), and not internal focusing (so the front rotates, making using polarizers

unfun) but it's cheap, sharp, and lightweight. I've got one, and like it.

"Anyone know how that works? Whats the reason for that?"

 

There's a mechanical linkage between the lens and the camera body. The extra drag from the motor in the camera body is

what keeps the focus ring dampened.

This is normal for macro lenses. There's numerous discussions around here that talk but it.

Arun: when you do close focusing, the camera will also tell you the max aperture is changing. This is normal for macro

lenses.

Use the up and down arrows on the little 4-way pad. That cycles you through the different screens of information about

each photo.

Assuming you're using the correct non-destructive fluid, it can take a couple of cleanings to get thing adequately grunge-

free. It usually takes me a couple of cycles of blowing, brushing, and E2ing before I'm happy.

It's also possible that Nikon was planning on the D700 from the start, and is spreading the costs of R&D over both body

lines.

If you're on a Mac, Aperture will do tethering with the D3.

underexposure + boosting in photoshop = noise. So an exposure discussion could be relevant. But we won't know til we

see some images.

Use the D300's built-in as the commander, and the SB-800 and/or SB-600 off-camera using CLS as a slave. There should

be oodles of web resources on using CLS (Nikon's Creative Lighting System). You might be able to figure it out by playing

with the menus on the camera and the flashes.

If you do choose pocket wizards, you'll need to get a cable for it to work with the SB-600 (1/8" jack on one side, hot shoe

on the other). The '600 doesn't have a sync jack like the SB-800/900 do.

<div></div>

photo.net's been fast and reliable for me for awhile (coming from eastern part of the U.S.) Maybe try a traceroute and see if

someone along the way is having problems.

Kelby Training has a number of lighting videos, at least one of which uses the SB-800 a lot, like "Taking the Next Step with

SB800 Flashes" and "Using Small Flashes" by Joe McNally.