harris_goldstein

I have the older White Lightnings, but I would definately check out the Alien Bees in your situation. http://www.alienbees.com/

Gary, could you expand on your comment:

 

"You can get an inexpensive DVM (Digital Volt Meter) at Radio Shack. A VOM (Volt Ohm Meter) won't work, you NEED the high impedance input of a DVM to properly measure the trigger voltage."

 

I have a couple of digital multimeters (VOM). Are you saying that that a digital VOM won't work or just that an analog (needle) VOM won't work?

 

Thanks.

First, assuming they are both 12 exposure backs, one of the backs pictured is an A12 - the one with the crank on the side - and the other is the older style. Both will work fine, the A12 a bit easier and will cost more (all things being equal). Make sure the serial numbers on the inserts (inside the film backs) match the serial number on the backs themselves.

 

Hasselblad values are more in the lens than the body. And the difference between an older C lens (as pictured) and the same lens as a newer T* model can be significant. Many Hasselblads (as well as other models) saw heavy use in wedding and other professional venues - though you can usually tell by the exterior condition.

 

That said, I'd say $900 is a fair price, though not a great price, if it's in really good shape, the film inserts match the back, the lenses show minimal scratches and dust (and no fungus), and the shutter speeds on both lenses are accurate. I'm assuming you can actually inspect the equipment and that, to me, is worth a premium.

 

A 500cm body, with the same lenses, backs, and prism, would not impact the value all that much (maybe $50-100). A recent, documented CLA on the lenses would add to the value.

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/

I've "unstuck" one lens by soaking in lighter fluid then using 2 hose clamps per http://www.davidrichert.com/AGFA%20rebuild/agfa.htm.

 

One caution. I once purchased a Isolette via mail where the seller assured me the lens turned (but that he hadn't actually used it). What was turning was the ring, not the lens. For $6 plus postage it was still a fair deal.

 

So as you turn the ring, make sure it's actually focusing the lens.

The Canon A6xx series offers a lot of flexibility and quality in a relatively inexpensive, P&S format.

 

I don't know if there is any commonality at all with the user interface of your 30D but, if there was, that would be a plus.

It's also very likely that the battery is dead. These Spotmatics used a mercury battery that is no longer available. However, there are alternatives that will make your Spotmatic a very usable camera. I don't have the data handy but do a google search.

First, can you clarify? Do you mean that the focus ring turns easily when a lens is not mounted but is stiff when a lens is mounted?

 

The XL is notoriously weak with respect to it's focusing mount. There are 3 small plastic tabs that are integral to the focus ring (you can see them when the lens barrel is removed). These tabs can break and make it difficult or impossible to focus.

Personally, I would initiate a dispute. I looked at this seller's current items and it's a strange collection of items. I suppose it's possible he/she was totally ignorant about the Rollei and assumed that, since it did not appear to be run over by a large truck, it was in working condition. But if it said "good working condition" you have a right to expect good working condition.

 

I'm always amazed at how a seller can assume (and say!) that something is working, when they don't have a clue. You know, the "works fine, needs battery" (how do you know it works if it needs a battery?). I've inquired on items that were said to be in working condition and, when I asked when last used, was told it was used many years ago or even that "I've never used it". And that stuff is not even the outright fraud.

 

But I will say that most (many? some?) sellers that exaggerate in the listing will be more honest in answering specific questions.

 

In a way what's worse is that we did it to ourselves. The last 10 or so items I've sold were sold with a 10 day return privilege. But my impression is that I didn't garner any higher a price than similar condition (by photo and description) items sold "as is". Maybe the return privilege is not considered credible or maybe buyers are naive and focused only on price.

I've used Paul Ebel in Wisconsin: 651-335-8759

10 days is a long time and that's a lot of photo gear.

 

Some essential info is missing from your post:

How much weight are you carrying apart from the photo equipment?

What is the weight of the equipment?

What is the terrain? And at what altitude?

How many miles/km per day (both max and average)?

How in shape are you or will you be (now be honest about the "will you be" part)?

How much priority do you put on photography (i.e. are you willing to give up a 1 lb sleeping pad in order to carry a 1 lb lens)?

 

I don't think anyone can give you a credible answer without that info.

I'm assuming proper pack and proper boots. These will be essential for a 10 day trip.

 

Keep in mind that avid backpackers go to great lengths to shave off ounces - while you are adding pounds. All that gear may not be seem so necessary on days 3 through 6 when a) you are tired and b) you haven't eaten enough food to lighten the load.

 

I've been on 5.5 day trips with scouts and I can tell you from first hand experience what adding an extra 10 lbs to an already full pack is like.

Les, could you elaborate?

 

If I understand, you had a problem, they fixed it, the repair improved the situation but did not bring it back to original functionality, Mack said it would cost you additional $s to bring it back up to proper functioning.

 

Did they acknowledge the continued malfunctioning? If this is the case, what explanation did they give for charging for the repair? Was there an "out" in the warrenty that allowed them to do this?

 

I usually avoid extended warranties but sometimes the law of averages works in you favor. But only if the terms of the warranty are adhered to by the company.

First, by "soft" I assume you mean sharpness and not contrast.

 

You can argue about relative sharpness of Mamiya TLR lenses (and many do) but if you can see it in a contact print then I would suspect a defective lens, a problem with the mirror or focus screen or bad technique (vibration).

 

Some thoughts:

 

Inspect the 80mm to make sure the lens elements (front and rear) are properly and fully screwed into the mount

 

Use the distance scale for focusing

 

Try using a sturdy tripod to eliminate shaking from handholding

 

Exercise the shutter on the 65mm and, if it's reasonably usable, see if the results from that lens matches the 80

 

Make sure the back is set to the film you are using (120 or 220)

I assume there were lenses. The lenses can have significant value in their own right.

 

Absotutely sell them separately. Except for 50mm lenses, I would sell the lenses separately as well.

 

The Nikkormat FT (by the way, was there a little 'n' after the FT) will not bring much value. A good camera, but large, heavy, older, and uses a battery no longer available.

 

The F2 is of considerably more value. But there were a number of F2 models, differentiated by the meter prism. The one you have was made in 1972, so probably a F2 Photomic. F2s had a common problem with their meter. Here's a link to some F2 information: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/index.htm

 

Do you have any idea of the working condition of these cameras? I don't mean "cared for his equipment"; I mean working now. If you want top $, you should at least run a short roll through.

Regarding Extended Warranties, they typically are a high margin item for a store. Another reason store's like them is that they can book all the revenue up front then have some flexibility in setting aside reserves (amount and timing).

 

And the ability of the warranty company to provide prompt, quality service (and not jerk you around) has to be assessed. I'm curious as to people's experience with Mack warranties.

 

A prior poster's comment that the warranty cost must be greater than the average repair cost is true in the aggregate, but may not be true for your purchase. Many of these warranty's are based on item value or a broad class of items. If the item you are buying has a greater than average defect rate, uses unproven technology, or is particularly complex, it MAY be justified.

 

So I would not buy an extended warranty for a film camera and probably would not for an AF lens. But I would consider it for a digital body that is in the first year of production. Subject, of course, to what is actually covered, the cost, and the reputation of the warranty company.

Other than the LF tilts and swings, there is nothing you can't do with 35mm - it's just a quality issue vis-a-vis LF and MF. On the flip side, if you can handhold the MF Pentax, it's just as easy to use (though not carry) as 35mm. Or use a monopod. But I think the moment you start using a tripod, you have to consider the impact on others in your party.

 

To me, you are already over complicating with digital P&S, 35 RF and 35 SLR. YMMV of course, but I think adding an additional format is really pushing it. If it was me, and if traveling with others, I'd take the digital and the 6x7 with monopod.

 

OK, you win, take the 35 RF too.

I don't use digital a lot, but when I do I use it for P&S shots - just as you described. I like my 5mp Canon A610 in terms of quality, speed, and ease of use (which, in my case, includes the ability to use AA batteries). The current version is the 7mp A620. Worth looking into.

What kind of wildlife/nature are you looking for and how far do you want to travel? Deer are everywhere, ducks/geese are everywhere, loons and cranes relatively common, eagles and osprey can be found. There are black bears in the less populated areas, but may be hard to spot in true wildlife settings.

 

North and west of Pelican Lake will tend to be less developed.

 

Paul Bunyan Nature Center is about (http://www.pbnlc.org) is about 12 miles southeast and may offer some shots of waterfowl. It's close to Brainerd and Baxter, so a good place to stop if others want to go "downtown".

 

Sometimes the best nature shots can be found in the small ponds and marshes. They can be found by taking the small roads. These roads won't be shown on most road maps, so try the online topo maps (such as http://terraserver.microsoft.com/image.aspx?T=2&S=15&Z=15&X=63&Y=805&W=1&qs=%7cmerrifield%7cmn%7c) Consider bringing a pair of hip boots and tripod that can be used in marshy, muddy areas.

 

Minnesota Dept of Natural Resources has a good site: http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/outdoor_activities/index.html Look for parks, wildlife areas, and state forests.

 

If you're shooting film, bring what you need. Hard to find anything other than print film and some basic slide film.

 

PM me if you have more questions. I have a place about 8 miles south of Pelican (on North Long). Though I haven't done any wildlife photography in the area.

And are you speaking literally of deer stands (which are typically 8-12 off the ground) or of blinds and other forms of concealment?

JB said "Confirm the batteries are allowed before you fly.".

 

I agree. But I would do so multiple times since you may get different answers from different employees. And I'd have a backup plan (or something in writing) in case a question arises when you check in. Finally, I'd make sure the equipment is very easy to inspect when checked in.

As DH says, an extended warranty is basically insurance. You are virtually assured that the warranty cost will exceed the repair cost if you take a large enough sample.

 

But I think there are some exceptions:

 

- If you use an item more or harder than normal.

 

- If it's a new design that is not fully debugged.

 

- If the warranty cost applies across a variety of items, many/most less complex than yours (sometimes bigbox retailers price the warranty based on the cost of the item, regardless of the items complexity).

 

- The cost of repair to the warranty company is substantially less than the cost of repair directly to you.

 

Another thing to consider is how long you plan to keep the item. I believe a tranferable warranty is a big advantage when selling. So if you're planning to sell in the last 3-6 months of the warranty period, it's an added plus.

 

I'd be curious as to people's experience with Mack warrantees, in terms of how well they honor them and the repair experience.

Do you mean something like this:

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/index/index-display.jsp?id=cat20098&navAction=jump&navCount=1&parentId=cat20712&parentType=category&cmCat=MainCatcat20712

 

I suspect any large hunting-oriented store would have them.

 

Looks like its tough to find a digital in your price range, but a couple of film units.

I don't have the Kalt, but I believe my metal one is similar.

 

First, make sure there are no children or older ladies around, since you can't avoid profanity when using these.

 

Then turn the spool inside the cassette as if rewinding. Listen carefully to hear when the end of the leader passes the film gate (sometimes you can hear it, sometimes not. I prefer to do the rest of the process in the dark or at least subdued light.

 

Insert the retriever with the two metal tabs closed. Then retract the one that is closet to the film. Now you have this metal "V" inside the cassette.

 

Turn the spool in the opposite direction (as if feeding the film out of the cassette) until it stops. In theory, it's now wedged into the "V". Holding the retriever firmly against the cassette, insert the metal piece that you previously retracted. You now have, again in theory, trapped the film leader between the two metal pieces.

 

Pull out the retriever with the leader in between the metal pieces. If it doesn't come out with the leader inside, repeat 10 or 15 times wishing you had gotten the camera modified to leave the leader out.

I needed 2 tiny screws for my Mamiya press lens. Not only did Mamiya

have them, but sent them for free. They deserve some credit both for

having the part and not charging anything - not even postage. How

many companies would have charged an exhorbitant amount to cover the

administrative cost?

Michael, first confirm that it truly is a Nikkormat EL. There was a Nikon EL2 that had the same body but was marked "Nikon" and "EL". This has been known to create confusion, though it's a bit of a longshot. As noted above the EL2 will be AI, the Nikkormat EL is not AI.

 

That said, I can't remember any Nikon-mount lenses I've had - including much later AI lenses - that did not have the meter prong. I still use an older Nikkormat FTn (with 675 zinc air batteries and an O-ring) and it works fine. It's just a little slower to change lenses. Speaking of batteries, the EL and EL2 uses a 6 volt battery. I don't remember which one, but I think it's relatively easy to fine.