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dont know, i do know i shot a wedding and down loaded the card then reformatted without checking the images, as luck would have it, they were all corrupt raw files.. I used a photo recovery program and it worked fine. I cant remember the name (its on my home computer and im at work) it even found vacation pics from a year ago!

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id bring it back to where you got it and raise holy hell. Im sure it cn be fixed and isnt a problem with canon exclusivly, all DSLR's get dirty... it just so happens thatyou got one bad one.. who knows, maybe the shop had previously sold it and took it back from someone? Id definetly go back there and accuse them of re-selling returned merchandise, then when they deny it, accuse them of selling shoddy merch. then when they deny that accuse them of selling floor modles at full price, floor modles that are dirty and should be cleaned for free...right then and there or give you full refund! yell loud and if they dont listen, yell louder! but dont swear or curse, and dont threaten.. They say you get more flies with honey, its just sometimes you have to poison the honey to get even more.

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its like taking your 35mm picture and cropping it, removing the outer edge, everything else stays the same. draw a box, now draw another inside it but 1.5 times smaller...the outer box is 35mm film and the inner is the 1.5 crop sensor. you just loose the outer portion of the shot so it appears to be "zoomed" if you will, the actual pic is the same but the edges are gone.. hopefully that will explain it,, i know i just hurt my brain with this.

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Id say they are all nice but if youre a purist and want to stay with your camera make.. get the least expensive.. my real choice would be the sigma. i have the 10-20 for my canon and love it!

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NOT TO KNOCK THE EXCELLENT 20d BUT, YOUD MIGHT AS WELL WAIT TO SEE THE REAL TIME USER REVIEWS OF THE NEW 30d. i TOO HAVE THE xt, GOT IT BECAUSE I COULDNT AFFORD THE 20D AT THE TIME.(damn cap locks!) anyway, now that the 30d is here... I'm gonna wait to see how normal, everyday people like it. I figure, why not? it would have been like if i had bought the 300d when i could get the 350d.

but thats just me!

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not many people would buy one. except for those of us who really dont need a dslr. It might be nice for soccer moms and such but thats about it. its easier to get a great p&s with video or a good dslr and a good video camera. Plus, alot of video cameras have great still cams in them and you can put about any amount of memory in them you want for stills and the vids go on tape so, skys the limit.

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good nd? go to sing-ray . com also, dont forget, you might see some better results if you also use a good polorizer with the nd.

good tutorials . com is a good source for framing info, as is action central. i believe actcentral.com is where they are or just google action central. look in the downloads section.

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ok... after thinking about this for a few minutes... the original poster may be confused by my previous answeres... let me explain. your older lenses will work but, the images they produce will be cropped as compared to when you shot film. The zoom range will be the same but the shots will appear to be zoomed 1.5 times original size. that is what i was saying so, yes. the zoom range will still be 80mm but the resulting photo will be about the same as if it were shot with a bigger zoom. if you take an old pic you shot at full zoom with this lens and put it on your screen, crop the center 1.5, the image you now have will be what it will be shot on a digi cam with 1.5 crop factor. youll lose the edges because the rear element is designed to spread the image across 35 mm film not the smaller sensor. Digital only lenses, whether or not they have a special coating, have a smaller rear element that "shrinks" the scene down to fit the smaller sized sensor. if you could mount a digi only lens on a 35mm body, youd see youd get a pic in the center and black vignetting around the outside. sort of like using a circular fish eye lens but with out the distortion. hope this helps.

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well bad info for Nikon... I know on a canon "digital lenses as the EF-s LINE, MEANS THEY WILL PRODUCE A SMALLER IMAGE ON A FULL FRAME SENSOR AND THERE ARE NO "SPECIAL" COATINGS ON THE REAR LENS.... THE IMAGE CIRCLE IS SMALL SO YOU CAN FIT A SMALLER IMAGE ON THE SMALLER SENSOR. Im thinking that if the nikon also uses a smaller sensor (1.5 crop factor) than my answer stands! I have never , ever heard of "special" coatings on a lens for digital... nor is it true an 18-50 lens be an 18-50 lens on a digital as compared to a 35mm film body or a full frame digital... if it were true, wouldnt the ef-s lenses work on the ef only bodies? even the mounts are different to kake up for the "extended" rear lens. do this... try your old lens on a 35mm film body, take a shot at the widest setting. now, put it on the 1.5 crop body and use the same settings... tell me what you notice when you lay the shots side by side. Like i said, unless Nikon is doing somethng different, than i believe my answere is correct and stands for all digital camera mfg's

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the only difference is your 28-80 will be more like a 42-120 if my math is correct (which it probably isnt as i stink at math!)

Image quality will depend on the lens quality. Im a canon guy so I dont know jack about Nikon lenses.. if the 28-80 is one of Nikons "pro level" lenses and the 18-55 isnt, the quality of the 28-80 will be better.. as for "made for digital" it means the image you get with the 18-55 will be more like a true 18-55 on a full frame (or 35mm ) camera.

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can the daye functionbe turned off on the elans? even if its the 7ne date back model?

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wow... every board i go to (canon specific) hates this new camera... for me it seems the "logicle" up grade from my XT... I guess its like the difference between the 300D and 350D.. why go from the 300 to the 350 when you could jump up a notch and go to the 20D? I will go to the 30D someday...hopefully and not the 20D as planned.. its just a small leap over but it cant hurt. Im not a mega pixel maniac.. 8 is plenty fine for me, yes full frame is nice but for me it isnt important... i would like to know, is the body metal or plastic and is it any bigger than the 20d? the only shot i have seen of it was shot from above and it looks about the size of my XT.

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COULDNT DOWN LOAD AN IMAGE... could be noise.. at ISO 400 you will get some noise.

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i use a filter on my lens mostly not for protection but to keep the lens clean...if im out in the field and it gets dirty i just pop it off and throw it in my bag and dont have to clean the lens itsself. As for protection, the jury is still out.. i think if you do something to your lens that will break the filter, the chances of hurting the lens are extremely high...but on the other hand, it might help and i personally dont think it hurts to keep one on...just make sure its a good brand, you dont wanna ruin the photos by using a chepie e-bay filter. i try to use canon, Hoya or sing ray filters...just bought a singray Graduated (3 stop hard) ND filter... now to get a great polorizer..yeah, spend more money!

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well id say anything with an "L" at the end of its name...lol Seriously, for a good portrait lens you cant go wrong with either the 50mm f1.8 or the 85MM f 1.8 (better) and for action, you want something fast (f2.4 or f2.8 )and far (about 200 to 300 MM)unless its outside in the bright sun and youre really close to the action. seriously, for speed, reach and outstanding photos, its gonna cost you. Try looking at the Sigma line of lenses, some of the bigger ones are great. but for the smaller"F" number, you pay more..allot more. Im sure youll get some better answeres as I do not do sports photography at all.

good luck!

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Hi... you want to save card space but not loose Image quality? well, id say go buy another card or a bigger card. You basically want to shoot at the highest rez you can.. esp if you want to print. if you dont really care about Image quality (and it sounds like you do care) then shoot at the lower quality and dont sweat it. 1,2 and 4 GB cards are getting cheaper by the day at places like Amazon.. I just got two more 1 GB cards there for like 50 bucks each... the reason i dont go over 1 GB cards is, if one goes bad, i have a spare, if i go to a 4 GB card and it dies, Im screwed!

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i used to worry about this too but realized, its the same pic, same info, same size and same Pixel count, and not to worry about it.lol

youd be surprised, now that you know the secret, youll see tons of versions of this very question asked over and over...allmost as much as, "Hi, im buying a new camera..what should i get?" or, "Is the 20D better than the XT?" or my fav.. "I need a new lens, which one do I want?"

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both are great! the 5D is cheaper and you could buy another lens but, the 1dsmk2 is very, very nice and IMHO the better of the two. Who says youll just be doing Landscape? I mean, you say that now but then an opportunity will arise and your gonna wish you had a better, fast camers... I love the 5d but......

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3.8 is still pretty fast.. and you can down load noise ninja or any of the free noise reducing programs and it will help out allot with the grain from ISO 1600.

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re reading your post..i would think youd want more of a video or miniDV camcorder if you want to make a movie. the pro1 offers only 30 second videos i believe (never really used the video feature) and most miniDV camcorders take very good stills now. I know you cant "zoom" in video but i think the AF still works. It will be a real hassle to use for a full length video, thats for sure.

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im not sure about the S2IS but I do have a Pro1 and i will say this, It takes an awesome picture.. Its got 8 MP and an "L" lens..that alone makes it a worth while camera to have. its about the same size as the S2 but heavier because of the body construction.. I believe it has all the same options as the S2 also.. The Macro and Super Macro modes cant be beat, and there are some pretty nice lens attachments from canon you can get for it. Now, heres what I dont like.. Kinda slow to auto focus is a tad slow and there is a considerable amount of shutter lag but if your shooting landscapes and stills, portraits youll be fine..just not to good for action. I dont like the way filters attach to the lens either, instead of screwing on like a normal lens, you need an adapter, the camera (pro1) comes with one but after using it youll wish you had more, they are plastic and once screwed on to a filter its allmost impossible to remove. I bought 3 from canon at like $9.00 each.. a rip off for sure but like i said.. I did it to save my sanity..lol. All in all, i like the camera allot.Also it will work fine with canon speed lights and ring lights. To learn more about the ins and out from other pro1 users go to www.powershotpro1.com i believe they also have a www.powershots2is.com also.

good luck.

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lol..are you serious? is the 20D better? hell no! not even close.. whats even better than the coolpix is them little throw away cameras in a box from Wal-mart.. now them are technology at its besttis!

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yes but you can use a slower shutter speed because of the IS at this point. And the ISO noise levels on the XT are pretty good too. Unless your shooting moving subjects, a slower shutter will help out.

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you could put it in a really dry place for a week or so, maybe next to or infront of a dehumidifier and see what happens.. My guess is its no good anymore but dont try to start it up yet, you most likley short it out and then youll really have nothing. Let it dry out for about a week or os and see if that helps, take the battery out and leave the door open, pull out the card too, you might be able to hit it wilth a low heat hair dryer too to help speed up the drying time!

Good luck!

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two good pieces of advice above. But, I would suggest maybe a Prime lens over a zoom. Primes are sharper and faster than most zooms and a good wide lens like a 17 or a 20 MM just remember two things, the size of you digi sensor will adherently "crop out a porton of your shot, on the upside, it will minimize the distortion that an ultra wide lens will make. If you have Photo Shop, you can fix the rest of the distortion with it.

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