zacker

<p>looks to me like a sync problem also... probably doesnt matter what shutter speed youre using, the old trigger is just not talking to your new camera. use the other one that works or try a newer model. but that definitely looks like your catching your shutter. whats the flash set to in the camera? first or second curtain?</p>

<p>Canon assumes that if you shoot in the "creative" (automatic) modes (tree, volcano, profile..) then you most likly arent one to post process those photos ... youre most likely going to just print them out like 90% of digi cam owners do. And, in RAW mode, with the camera in Fully Manual mode, With a little bit of practice, you dont need to shoot in these modes, anything these modes can do, you can do yourself on full auto. It is nice to have the RAW data but IMHO, its not that big a deal... I shot RAW for years and switched over to Jpeg recently, I process them in Adobe CS3 in the ACR (Adobe Camera RAW) and they look every bit as good as my RAWs do. Just do not make ANY changes to the original JPEG file and yu'll never have to worry about IQ loss due to saving it over and over and over.<br>

Oh yeah.... the 5D doesnt have the "creative modes" because its considered a Pro Camera, the rest of the line down (40D,30D, 20D..) are consumer models.. or if it make anyone feel any better, PRO-sumer models ;)</p>

<p>i use a 30D, have so since it came out.. whoever told you to go with the 30D over 40 and / 50D was just trying to push an older camera off on you (sounds like a Ritz camera trick to me) the 40 and 50 D are upgraded versions and are 1 (40D) and 2 (50D) steps up from the 30D.. now, like I said, 30D is a great, great camera but if you buy one brand new, youre getting an older model.. there are alot of used ones out there, just need to look.. On another note, the 30D is NO smaller than the 40 or 50 D, the rebel line of digi cams are usually smaller than the **D line. as for MP goes, the only real difference I can say are the higher the MP the sensor has, the better the sensor handles noise.. but, just expose right and noise isnt a really big issue. but the 40 and 50 are just better upgraded cameras then the 30d with things like sensor cleaner, live view and better noise handeling. Dont get fooled by tricky salesmen, they lie, cheat and worse....<br />good luck!</p>

Dont you just love it? Why would someone feel that they need to go on and post a reply like that? i mean, they read the topic, knew what it was about, yet they actually felt the need for posting a response that does nothing but tell the rest of the forum how sad and bored they really are.. I mean, its like someone posts a pic that says, "New HDR" and half a dozen reply to the tune of.. "I hate HDR, it looks ugly" Thats nice but., no one asked if you liked it.. you know the old saying "if we wanted any **** out of you, we'd squeeze your head! "

redundant morons!

the top position is supposed to turn on the wheel on the back of the body and the middle position turns on the cam but not the wheel so you dont advertantly hit it and spoil a shot bby changing a setting. are you sure the manual wasnt talking about the top wheel? at least this is how it works on my 30D and Elan7

save another $200.00 then you might be able to pick up a used sigma or tamron lens. for $300.- 400 bucks you can prolly

get a used canon 28-135 IS or a Tamron 28-200 .. look around on Amazon also

good luck!

The best bet is to use something like Photoshop, Lightroom, or paint shop pro to edit and manually adjust Hue / saturation.. i wouldnt worry too much about what the colors straight out of the camera look like. Just as in Sharpening, youll wanna fine tune all the shots any how, Plus, if your white balance is off, your colors will be bad anyhow.

Does the 10D support custom white balance? also, is it ETTL as the newer cams are? you can get a "Safe Sync" so's not to fry the camera. Or search ebay for a good used 420EX, 430EX, or 450EX flash.

I saw this question before, as i recall there are a few factors like CF card write speed and such.. also, was the 17fps in RAW an official count or was it average or supposed?

Off shoe cord should work fine... i use it all the time on my canon 30D. Whats great is i can position the light anywhere i need or want it. better yet is a radio trigger so theres no cord to hang in the way.

I believe, most macro is shot at about F11 or so and f2 or even f2.8 (IMHO )is too much for a macro lens..I typically shoot macro at f11 or f16 with flash. and anything smaller would make the physical size bigger (possibly) that and the fact that a macro also makes a pretty good prime, it is designed and marketed for Macro use, if not, they couldnt charge so much for the same size prime lens. lol

Yep! need to put a filter on it...or have it converted... my understanding is the any camera will shoot IR with an R-72 filter on it...even if it sees the remote or not. You can also buy an IR only, converted camera.. or have yours converted.

Sigma SD1 is an awesome camera, only draw back, no zoom.. fixed at 28MM i believe.

 

Canon G9 would work, I think its gonna be tuff to find an Ultra compact with Raw or fully manual controls. I got the canon sd850 IS because it got good reviews but its manual mode only lets you choose ISO and flash on, off or, auto...lol oh well, its still in my pocket all the time!

Id look into getting a good fast lens with IS... or even a good fast prime.. it will be a huge help. that coupled with a higher ISO and a tripod should work wonders for ya. the 70-200 f2.8 IS comes to mind.. it would definetly be a worth while investment.. also check out the ..17-85 (?) f2.8 IS lens.

ef-s ARE MADE TO PRODUCE A SMALLER IMAGE CIRCLE ON THE SENSORS OF cROP CAMS LIKE THE xt, xti 30,20 AND 40d'S.. ef ARE FOR FULL FRAME AND WILL WORK ON BOTH fULL FRAME AND CROP CAMS... ef-f WILL not WORK ON A fULL fRAME CAMERA AS IT GOES TOO FAR INTO THE BODY AND WILL HIT YOUR MIRROR POSSIBLY BREAKING IT AND CAUSING A COSTLY REPAIR THAT wont BE COVERED BY THE WARANTY opps, sorry about the caps... thats what I get for not watching what I type..lol but thats the gist of it.

LOL...that scam is still kicking around? Im surprised folks are still falling for it. Basically, stay away from anyone wanting to use Western Union and / or any third party "Agent" or "Escrow" accounts or any type of third party delivery service.. I only ship UPS and state so in all my auctions with the warning that i will cancell the bid if they want me to ship by any other method. Man, People are bad, really bad.. all these scammers really do is diminish my outlook on society and make me want to move away to a desert island someplace. Thanks though, for posting this. With all the newbs to the internet, we prolly should be preposting these types of warnings again and again.

lol... the ghosts of lighting present!

I highly doubt the XSI will be superior to the 40D.. both in IQ and Noise.. Id go for what ever one you like better, what ever one feels good in your hands and you find easier to use... i am using my trusty 30D and wont buy another body untill this one dies and is unrepairable.. I do not believe any of Canons "Pro-Sumer" bodies can out shoot each other when it coes to IQ. Get the one you feel more comfortable using. or the one thats easier for you to afford.

hey Fellow nutmegger... I have used Dell a few times, got my Pro1 from them, it came with a non working LCD, i returned it straight back and got a new one a few days later,i also bought my 100MM macro from em and I believe I got my 28-135 from them also.

whats so bad about giving them the serial ## you must have done it when you sent in the registration card for the warrantey. id at least get a mount for that same lens if i was gonna attempt to repair it, i wouldnt try to retro fit one from an off brand like sigma, im sure theres electronics for the AF and stuff in it.

nope.... the distortion is a characteristic of wide lenses. I'd get him a Sigma 24-70 f2.8, he will grow to love it, if he can hold it. it is a pretty heavy piece, maybe stick with what ever Tamron has.

 

I have a Tamron 28-200 f4 that i love, its small and very lightweight but the one thing i hate is it seems to fringe too much. good luck!

Wedding shooters love f2.8 as most churches are dark and wont allow flash.

 

You covered sports, besides that, any type of action shots, indoor and out.

The settings in LR are prolly different than those in your cam. you mmight have the brightness of the LCD turned all the way up, also RAW or JPEG, dont forget the cam is showing "processed" image.. what you see in LR, Esp. if its a RAW file, is Waaaay different than what your LCD is showing, then there is the whole 2 in ch LCD Vs. 17 " monnitor, both calibrated differently... there are way to many variables at work here to even worry about, just adjust the file in LR or PS and let the program do what you bought it for so you can worry more about shooting.

maybe find an older G7 its really not the camera that makes great photos, its knowing how to use the one you have to the best of your ability. stay safe though if you've no experience shooting, get a good Pand Shoot digi cam with a good zoom range (200MM or so) and if you can, get one with anti shake built in.

Good luck!

 

ps. have you given any thought to renting a DSLR with some nice lenses? Just a thought.

it all depende, with the canon flas, youll get to take advantage of Canons ETTL.. I dont think your gonna get that with the Q-Flash.

 

If you want a good portable kit, try getting either the Vivatar flashes and some wireless triggers or get the 580 and a coupre 430 EX's, the 5 80 on your cam will act as Master to the 430 flashes or get canons wirless flash commander and fire all three flases off cam or get the newest 580 with the jack for plugging trigers into it and a set of Pocket Wizards. Try googeling Off camera lighting, theres tones of sites and forums out there, or check flickr, there are quite a few groups dedicated to this type of lighting.