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anthony_valvo

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Posts posted by anthony_valvo

    Nikkor Telephoto Zoom with 52mm filter ring?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>I've backpacked with equipment and I understand your issues. Here is what I'd would suggest. Get a the 28-105MM AFD. This is a very high quality lens for landscape work. It has a 62MM filter thread. Sell the 24MM AIS and get a 20MM AFD, it has the same filter thread. On the longer end, go with the 180MM AFD, or the 200MM AI. You can use adapter rings (up or down) for those lenses. This would give you a high quality, light weight kit for your needs.<br>

    Anthony</p>

     

    First DSLR related questions and dilemas

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Agree that the D300s, or even the D300 is the way to go. It has advantages for you shooting style:<br>

    - Sports (tennis)....DX gives you better preceived reach for the dollar<br>

    - Landscapes....DX gives more depth of field<br>

    - Wildlife...again more reach and way more cost effective<br>

    These cameras are not low light hogs either. They do quite well when shot properly. Also agree that if you are serious, you'll eventually want a DX and an FX camera. So, just start now with the D300s and some good glass.<br>

    If it were me, I'd try to get a D300s with the following lens:<br>

    - 17-35MM AFS<br>

    - 60MM Micro AFD, or 50MM AFD<br>

    - 80-200MM AFD<br>

    That covers a pretty broad range. It won't all be in your budget, but its not that far off. Especially, if you pick up some of this equipment used. Nothing wrong with that, all my equipment is purchased that way.<br>

    Have fun and good luck.<br>

    Anthony</p>

    <p> </p>

    F4 fault

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>The F4 does have some know faults, as almost all cameras eventually do. If you like the camera otherwise. I would suggest striking a deal with this deal to have it repaired at their cost. Make sure it is sent to Nikon or to this place: http://www.nikoncamerarepair.com/<br>

    By doing this, the camera will get a 100% going over and any issues or worn out parts will be replaced.<br>

    Anthony</p>

    <p> </p>

    Nikon 60mm 2.8D-designed for macro only?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>I've used this lens for many landscape photos and as a general purpose lens. Its excels in all of these venues. I even bought a second one, new, to keep around after it was discontinued. I tested the AFD against the AFS version and found this lens to be better. It also has other features I desire over the AFS. The front element is deeply recessed, it has an aperture ring and a better manual focus feel.<br>

    Have fun!<br>

    Anthony</p>

    Need SLR/Lens advice

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Step up to a D700 will get you about one stop better low light capability in a much heavier and more expensive package. If you go this route, a very good but cost saving kit might be the following:<br>

    17-35 AFS<br>

    50 AFS<br>

    80-200 AFD<br>

    All very good lenses. If you find yourself no much on the wide end then swap out the 17-35 for the 28-70 or 24-70 AFS.<br>

    I have a D300 and I find its low light capability very good up to about ISO 2000. I'm told the D90 is even better, so ISO 800 seems very conservative, but each person has their threshold.</p>

    <p>Good luck<br>

    Anthony</p>

    <p> </p>

    How often do you upgrade your Nikon equip?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Upgraded to an F6 about two years ago. Got two of them used and in perfect condition. They are worth more now then what I paid. This is the best camera I have ever used, so there will be no upgrading for me. Nikon will not be making another pro film camera. <br>

    Still love my F4 and F3 too. D300 gets some use, and I won't be upgrading that.</p>

    <p>Anthony</p>

    image quality AFS 70-200 VRII versus AF 180 mm f2.8

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Interesting question. If your shotting portraits mainly hand held, then the VR might actually get you a sharper image, even if the opitcs are not on par with the 180. However, the 70-200 is a big and heavy lens, so you will use it hand held less.<br>

    I'd guess the optical quality is very close on these two lenses. If it were me, I would not upgrade. The 180 is a fine lens, for your work. Its light and small with great bokeh. As a D3 user, I doubt you need the VR, as that camera produces clean images even at higher ISOs.</p>

    <p>Anthony</p>

    Nikkor 14-24 lens care (and especially cleaning) tips?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>I like James' method.<br>

    I have the same lens, and others with out filters. Waterspots are best cleaned with some Eclipse and a microfiber cloth. Otherwise, use a blower to keep dust off and a microfiber cloth with your breath. Lens pen is not a bad option for small spots.<br>

    Don't clean often, just when needed.<br>

    Anthony</p>

    <p> </p>

    White spots

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>I get this too, but not as bad. The Nikon scanners really tend to enhance this stuff. I gotten it much better over time. The key is to be clean.<br>

    1) I use tap water, but have a sediment filter on the house<br>

    2) I don't reuse fixer or stop<br>

    3) I do a final rinse with Distilled water<br>

    This has lessened the problem to a great degree. My last few rolls were pretty clean.<br>

    Anthony</p>

    <p> </p>

    F100 - slide film.

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>I think you will find that matrix works quite well for slide film. I use an F6 and F4 without much issue in most scenes. Where you need to be careful is in high contrast scenes. If using Velvia, you have about five stops of latitude to work with. This means you sometimes have to pick and choose just how you want the shadows or highlights to exposed. Sometimes compromises need to be made.<br>

    Now to do this all you really need is to understand Spot metering. Theres plenty of information out there, but its not hard to do. <br>

    My technique for most landscapes is first to meter the scene in matrix. Then I switch to Spot and I check where the highlights, shadows, and midtones will fall at the camera's suggested exposure setting. If I need to make changes then I do. So for instance, I could sacrifice some detail in the shadows (let them go darker) in order to get a more deep blue sky, etc. <br>

    Its all about choices. However, I will say with confidence that your matrix exposure is likely to be within 1/3 stop of the correct exposure about 90% of the time. I would not worry to much.<br>

    I rarely use CW metering, except for portraits.<br>

    Slide film is great. You will love the results of Velvia. For true color and fine grain, go with Astia. Astia is also great for high contrast winter scenes, as it holds detail in the highlights very well.<br>

    Have fun an good luck.</p>

    <p>Here is some recent Velvia color. Its hard to get this with negative film.</p>

    <p>Anthony</p>

    <p> </p><div>00VB8m-198021584.jpg.47ad8312d73fc5baad972f202021a328.jpg</div>

    A Few In Pan F Plus and Rodinal

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Thanks very much. I scanned these to about 14MP and they are for the most part grainless. They're also sharp, even viewed at 100%. My guess is that enlarging to 13X19 would not be a problem. That's as large as I tend to go.<br>

    If there were sky in the photos, I'm sure the grain would be there, but that is ok with me. I'm really more turned on to all the subtle shades and the sharpness of this film. I'll keep shooting this combo and maybe even try it in DDX, as I've read that's not a bad combination too.<br>

    Anthony</p>

    <p> </p>

    A Few In Pan F Plus and Rodinal

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Well finally got around to shooting some Pan F Plus. I usually use EFKE 25 as my slow film, but wanted to give this a try. I really like it. Its got nice latitude and is real sharp.<br>

    Developed in Rodinal 1:50 for 11mins and scanned on the Nikon Coolscan. <br>

    Anthony</p>

    <p> </p><div>00V9Nw-196745584.jpg.3dc84a802defe3153427b7f09b8920ed.jpg</div>

    80-200mm or 70-200mm

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>I have to agree with Dan. The 80-200MM AFD is such a fine lens. I will never sell mine. First its sharp, and second it has an aperture ring. Its also shorter than the 70-200MM. I don't need VR for my purposes. I'm glad I skipped the first 70-200MM. When funds are available, I might go for the new version, but the 80-200 will not be sold.<br>

    Anthony</p>

     

    Trying to decide a second film body

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Well all of the suggestions here are good. If you plan to shoot film for a long time, then I would consider the F6. Its expensive, but no film shooter should go without experiencing the F6. Its just a great tool. The ergonomics are great. It works with the widest range of Nikkor lenses and the metering is perfect.<br>

    If not, the F3 is the best bet. I love the F3 and its frequently a second camera for me as well. One thing that no one mentioned here is that the F3 can use F4 focusing screens. Its nice to have the interchangeability.<br>

    The F4 and F3 make a great pair.<br>

    Anthony</p>

    <p> </p>

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