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schristian1

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Posts posted by schristian1

    Slide scanning recommendations

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    I am looking to rescan all of my slides and negatives. I originally used my flatbed scanner, but they all seem to be soft. This time I plan on using my Nikon D750 and 105 mm macro lens on my tripod with an extension arm. I have looked at several film molders and have narrowed it down to 3.

     

    Pixl-latr

    Sunray copy box III

    Essential Film Holder

     

    Right now I am leaning towards the EFH. I like the Sunray, but it is out of stock for awhile and I have heard it gets very hot. With the other solutions, a light source is needed. I have watched reviews and one brought up the issue of color rendition with their light source. I have been looking at various LED light boxes/pads used mostly for tracing. They mention brightness, but not much in the way of color temperature or color rendition. One reviewer did a comparison with 4 different light sources and the Viltrox L116T light had excellent color. It is a video light and not a light box and would require some kind of holder be made as it is not flat.

     

    My questions are these:

     

    Are these light pads acceptable for illumination and give me proper color rendition? Any recommendations below $100?

    Can I just correct color temp in Lightroom as I will be shooting RAW?

    What are your opinions on my 3 holder choices from your actual experience. I liked the Pixl-latr, but am concerned about all of the parts snapping together and the need to lift the cover to move the film. I have heard that all of the parts can come unsnapped while using. Once set up, I want to imit the possibility of disturbing frame alignment as I change to the next image to copy.

    Wht film is this?

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    Thanks. After doing more research and measuring, I have come to the conclusion is definately 126 film. Vuescan seems to only handle 126 slides and not film. I can set the crop box, but have to do one at a time instead of doing it in batch mode and processing an entire strip. I have seen an adapter for the Epson V500 that fits inside the film adapter and registers the film properly and prevents cutting off part of the image, but nothing for my old scanner. Wish my Nikon LS-40 had not taken a dump. Again, thanks for the response.

     

     

     

     

     

    The numbers all sound like 126 Instamatic film.

     

    Not as many films were made in 126 as in 35mm or 120, so that limits the choices.

     

    As far as I know, Kodak made Kodacolor-X in the C22 days, and Kodacolor II in the C41 days.

     

    More films were made in other types, with Verichrome and Tri-X (the latter special order),

    and Kodachrome-X, Ektachrome-X in the early days, and their successors later.

    Wht film is this?

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    I am scanning some old color negative 35mm strips and I am not sure what the film is. It only is marked as Kodak Safety film, has perfs on one side, and they seem to be located 1 per frame. I am using Vuescan on an Epson Perfection 1650. The only 2 selections in options for safety film are II and CII. The issue I am having is there is an option to show multi outlines that delineate each frame. These never seem to line up with the images. The distance from one frame to another is 30mm, not 35mm. The width of the film is 35mm. Any idea what this film is?

    Film recommendation

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Wanting to do some 35mm film work and am looking for current B&W film recommendations. It has been a long time since I shot B&W and Kodak has pretty much discontinued everything I used to shoot. I also do medium format 120/220, so a brand I can get in both formats would be great. Thanks</p>

    Posing stools

    in Accessories

    Posted

    <p>Can anyone recommend a good posing stool that will not break the bank? I was looking at the one from Cowboy Studios, but the reviews were really bad. I want an adjustable one with a padded seat.</p>

    Replace Vivitar 283 sync socket

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Yes, I am aware of the Holly foot, but you can not find them anyplace. All of the previous outlets list them as discontinued. The comapny address shows a picture of a residentual house. I expect that the comapny is no longer in business. Also, I don't want to throw $50.00 at these strobes when I can spend that on a strobe that does not have this issue. Spending that on a strobe I paid half that price for makes no sense to me.</p>

    Replace Vivitar 283 sync socket

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>From prior testing, the Wein replacement foot would not work anyway. As previously stated, I used a Wein HSH adapter, which I expect is about the same as the replacement foot, and it did not work. All the foot seems to give is an optical slave and a PC port. The PC port on the HSH did not work. And again, I am not looking to throw a lot of money at this just to take a few pictures. My goal is to obtain any information on WHY the PWs are not working with these Japan 283s. I have already come to the conclusion that the PWs will NOT work with these higher trigger voltage 283s.</p>

    Replace Vivitar 283 sync socket

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Did some more testing. Put the two Japan 283s on my A-1 and they both fire through the hot shoe, so that eliminates that. Tried putting my Wein HSH on both flashes with PW - H cable and neither will trigger with the PWs. Used my Canon 188A with the same HSH - PW hookup and the 188A fires fine.<br>

    Tried connecting using the 283s sync port with Vivitar - PW cable and still will not trigger. There is something about the older Japanese 283s with high trigger voltage that the PW does not like. <br>

    Might have to trigger one of these with an optical slave (that does trigger the flash) or break out the Speedotron and hook up a couple of strobes.</p>

     

    Replace Vivitar 283 sync socket

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Joe:<br>

    Penny pinching ..... yes. You have to when you are out of work. I have had the PWs for some time and have had the 283s for some time and really don't want to throw a bunch of money at them. I did not buy the PW's to fire the 283s. I wanted to use them with my light tent to do some product shots for eBay and the PWs seemed to be a good way to get two to fire at the same time. Yes, other flashes would also work, but again, I am not looking to buy more equipment. Just to get what I have to work together.<br>

    Marc:<br>

    I have seen those and they come with a PC plug, which I don't really want<br>

    I have seen in other threads that others have been having the same problems withtriggering Vivitar 283's with PWs. i have been powering the 283s with the AC adapter. I am wondering if that turns off the hotshoe. I will retry my testing with batteries and see if that changes anything.</p>

    Replace Vivitar 283 sync socket

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>I have 2, 283's that seem to have bad sync sockets. Does anyone know of a how-to to replace the sync socket with a household or 3.5 mm socket? I found one for a 285HV, but do not know if the process is the same for the 283. Seems the Flash Foot One is no longer available, so I cannot go that route and I do not want to go the PC connector route.<br>

    On another note this just occured to me. I am triggering these strobes with Pocket Wizards. One flash works fine, two do not. Now, one of these strobes is from China with the lower trigger voltage and the other 2 are from Japan with the higher voltage. Could it be that the Pocket Wizard is not generating enough voltage to trigger the flash?</p>

    Mounting my Qflash

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>I have a QFlash T3d-R and an early Stroboframe tilt bracket. I am wondering how to connect the flash to this handle. It came with a hot shoe, but the flash just has a mounting hole on the bottom. Is there a special bracket? The Stroboframe has 2 holes where the flash mounts. There is a structural element along the top frame the prevents thumbscrews or someting like it to be used. Any ideas?</p>
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