adamxisxrad

After reading this review, I conducted my own testing and review- mine focused on the 8x10 size with the barebones, base papers. I was looking for bang for the buck- you can view my detailed review at the link

<a href="http://www.adamdexterphotography.com/blog/2007/11/26/internet-printing-winkflashcom-v-mpixcom/" target="_blank">here</a>.

-Adam

This request for advice comes simply out of curiosity and my constant quest to

improve my technique.

I have been freelancing, shooting the DC club scene for about a year now. I have

my little tricks and techniques down for getting some great shots, however one

category I have yet to get a solid grasp of is shooting mixed skin tones

(Caucasian, white/African-American, black... w/e) or black people wearing bright

white suits. I mean, I can capture a fairly decent image, sometimes it may

require a little tweak of the shadows curve but overall I can get the job done.

I am just wondering if anyone has any tips or solid techniques for this situation.

Basically the sensor exposes the brightest area bounced off the flash, so a

white suit or person, then the face or friend is left in the dark, literally.

As of now, my technique mainly focuses on flash positioning- Lighting the darker

area/skin tone first and allowing the lighter area to get more bounce then

direct light or using completely indirect/bounce light for the entire

subject(s). I also occasionally try to use slightly longer exposure times.

Ambient light is typically out of the question because of the extreme low light

conditions/nature of clubs. I also have and use a rather large diffuser I made

out of a translucent milk quart sized container that works wonderfully.

Any further knowledge, help or tips is greatly appreciated.

-Adam

Dan!

"If I do this right, create one heck of a buzz, hand a hundred rolls of 64 out to kids to

shoot, perhaps Kodak will see it through to it's 75th anniversary in 2010."

I would love to participate! I'm a 19 year old student at American University and have been

dying to try Kodachrome for a while. I've always thought the way it looks is fascinating. I

also read that Patrick Hoelck (www.patrickhoelck.com) uses Kodachrome and his portraits

are amazing. I'll do Anything I can to make this film last so I can have a fair shot with it.

(pun sort of intended).

Adam

The other day, I developed a couple rolls of TX with Kodak TMAX

developer , the bottle said it can do TX fine. When I got to the

fixer, however, I checked the film after 5minutes (I was using Sprint

Speed fix, claims it works in 3 minutes which is a dead lie, even for

TMAX) anyway, so i checked it after 3 and it was still very purple,

then i checked it after 5, still very purple- i kept this up for

nearly 30minutes, at which it wasnt as purple as before, but had a

definate noticable tint to it. My other film (TMAX400) fixes fine, is

TX inherently more purple than TMAX, or do I need a different Fixer? I

just bought some Kodak Rapid Fix and hope that does the trick. Any

thoughts?

The other day, I developed a couple rolls of TX with Kodak TMAX

developer , the bottle said it can do TX fine. When I got to the

fixer, however, I checked the film after 5minutes (I was using Sprint

Speed fix, claims it works in 3 minutes which is a dead lie, even for

TMAX) anyway, so i checked it after 3 and it was still very purple,

then i checked it after 5, still very purple- i kept this up for

nearly 30minutes, at which it wasnt as purple as before, but had a

definate noticable tint to it. My other film (TMAX400) fixes fine, is

TX inherently more purple than TMAX, or do I need a different Fixer? I

just bought some Kodak Rapid Fix and hope that does the trick. Any

thoughts?

Hey, i was wondering how you get a result of like a brushed metallic,

goldish, like sheen in the final product of your subject- sort of like

<a href="http://www.iballer.com/divas/keys/images/k25_jpg.jpg"

target="_blank">this.</a>

Do you oil your subject, is it lighting- or is there a specific

developing process?