weatherman

I never got satisfactory results with severel KM bodies (dynax 7 and dimage 7i). So I always measure with a handheld flashmeter and set my aperture in Manual mode(both flashgun and aperture) when using wireless. That is the only way I use the wireless mode. Otherwise as you said i think light sensor in the flash-gun always over-exposes(or under sometimes) the scene or if you are in luck your subject even might be exposed properly!!! About zooming issue, this way(setting totally manually) I don't have to think about how close I am to the subject

This lens has unexpectedly good bokeh considering it is a wide angle one. It is very sharp, fast focusing, top notch glass. I use it as my standard lens on 5D and for landscapes on film body. Imperfections of the corners are cut out on 5d which makes it even better. Being soft at f2 is an optical limitation for any prime I guess but i still use it at f2 if needed just like I use f1.4 if it is available!!! I'll never regret buying this second hand lens which served me for a long time now.

E.

50mm f1.7(price/performance) and if you can find a second hand 28mm f2.0 (expensive though).

28mm is useful because it gives 40mmish perspective and has top notch glass and optical features which is is what I use a lot.

Just got the roll back and still same greenish stripe!!! This is a real puzzle for me now. Some of the new frames show more pronounced and longer and whiter(rather than green) stripe. I wonder if this is really the shutter thing. I'll send it in for repairs if it gets worse..

I have another dynax 7 that I know does not leak anything(has another problem though:-( ). I compared two cameras and both shutters are in perfect condition and look identical to me. That is how I saw that problem one has lost some paint near film frame.

Neither do I think that it is shutter now. It is too close to bottom to be shutter matter. Besides I now remember I had frames painted at the bottom with a russian camera before and it had the black paint at the edge scraped off as well(old camera). I had glued a black cloth piece on bare metal and all was fine later. I believe I'm having similar problem now which is easiy to fix to me...

That it is difficult to notice really,especially when you are suspicious about blade leak.

I have painted the open metal with alcohol based black pen. I'll finish a rool and let's see what happens.

Thanks a lot for the responses

(I mean I can live with it! ;) phew

Hey you know what I found the problem I think! :)

Bottom left corner paint is scraped off (my guitar nails might be the culprit :(

Metal is shining through there (using a torch)! So I think that explains why this problem does not show up when shot in cloudy days. No strong reflection no white stripe!

 

Now question is how can I paint that tiny area? Not that I can not live with it though..

William, yes it is only inside the frame so looks like shutter blade is messed up already. I don't remember touching it. Ever since I've put slides in it I realised this. Negatives show less of this problem. Hmm I wonder if I can make a claim(still under warranty).

Gosh! That is bad news! I can not spend any money for repairs as I also have the digital 5D...

Then I can always cut off the buttom and think about light leak when I compose. I guess it is not too bad for the time being it still is a usable body.

These for example:

http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=4223110

http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=4223106

http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=4223105

http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=4223112

 

thx

I have a question;

My almost brand new Dynax 7 is leaking light(I think). Very little of it and

obvious in some darker shots(always at the left bottom corner). I'm thinking

most probably I have damaged the curtains while I'm loading rolls. Looking at

the curtain with naked eye I can not see anything wrong. Is there a way of

inpecting shutter segments to see if there is any light leakage? (No a torch

doesn't show any transmission). I know I'm not allowed o touch them. And finally

I'm curious, is there any light sealant between metal segments? Othervise the

curtain design looks too fragile to me.

Many thanks in advance

E.

I second what Jimmy said. I use hoya UV HMC and at least at one occasion that filter on a very expensive lens saved it from being scratched. Im not a pro to notice the difference the filter makes.

Using a hood also helps agains impact.

E.

I bought a 5D which is relatively bug free and was cheap and has tons of features and I am not sorry I did. (I am coming from film Dynax 7).

I just wanted to wait for KM to mature in Digital SLR technology and if I were you I would be reluctant to buy the first Sony SLR. I'd not like my camera to visit Sony service because external flash doesn't expose properly or body can not focus with fast primes as 7D did once.

But it's just me..

I had bought one which was in perfect working order and very clean condition(like new outside) for GBP 50 two years ago. It still is a reliable body.

Bill, very difficult to compare a zoom with a prime don't you think. Prime lenses have different characteristics. Bokeh with cheap zooms for example is not good let alone other issues. (I have never tried the kit zoom though). So for me 2 prime lenses would do for a travel. 28mm f/2 and 100mm f/2.8 macro (with a film body). This is only my choice ofcourse.

The reason I have chosen 5D was that 7D had lots of production issues. Had to be sent back to minolta for flash calibration etc. etc. I'm not sure they are fixed in the later models though.

My 5D is very stable(so far), and small which I prefer. I know what a good vewfinder means as I have dynax 7 film body but again still happy to have bought the 5D body not the expensive 7D.

Choice is yours of course.

if you want power and quality you have to look for a prime, that's for sure.. 50mm 1.7 is excellent at quality/price.

As far as I know selected Af point needs to "see" a contrast change n the subject. If you are trying to focus on a uniformly coloured subject with no stripes, patterns etc., and under low light situations, Af hunts. Have you considered this? Point and shoot surely does not work in every situation. It might be as simple as that..

...but 24-105 zoom is fine (lightweight, has D feature for flash metering, focus ring doesn't turn during AF and filter end doesn't turn as you focus, etc.) if you are ready to sacrifice quality

Depends on your needs really.

I already had 28 f/2. I use it on film body as wide angle and it gives 40mm perspective on 5D. I do photography as pleasure so I don't need a zoom(although I have the 24-105). If I have to stick to one lens(with two bodies) for travel, this is it. 28 f/2 is such a powerful and quality one in any sense.

I have 100 macro as well and yes it is the only prime that hunts (in macro mode only).

Michael makes sense to me. Using a tripod might solve the problem and one needs tripod while macro work anyway..

I wonder if Sony will introduce and primes for Minlota AF mount.

Are they going to be made by Tamron? And will the quality suffer in that case. Minolta ones are great..

Some years ago Minolta 85mm f1.4 G was really hard to find in the UK. I'm lucky to have found an old stock one, the all metal G. You won't regret if you can get one(well you'll see the imperfections in your zooms, if that is ok. So may be it'll make you regret in a way ;)

Good luck

Having had dynax 7000 and 5, I can say 5 is great. Although construction is not as good as 7000, it is way too advanced in any way you can imagine. 7000s begin to show problems with aperture lever as they are vintage now. I like the relative minimalism and quality in 7000 though.