jp_and_ap_the_glass_eye

Hello, Bruce is just about right. My 30+ years experience with my black friends and relatives is +1/3 to +2/3 exposure compensation is necessary to bring up the facial detail. That works well with color negative film.

 

I'm not sure what the compensation should be with your digital setups, but try +1/3 to +2/3 for a start. It's a balance between the black faces and the white faces. Normally a little post-processing burning and dodging is needed to bring the two skin tones into the printable mid-range. That should give you a digital file for the printer that at least has a chance of looking right.

Hello . It sounds like you have +2 exposure compensation dialed in. Look at the back of the camera and switch on the switch. Press the shutter button half way down and dial the exposure compensation down (or up)using the thumb wheel on the back of the camera. Done.

Renting a car and driving to Santa Fe is a great idea. . . . One day? That?s not enough time, but then again a week really isn?t enough time. The central square and the Palace of the Governors is the heart of the historical district. Very interesting area, very photogenic and great food too. You will have a great time.

Thanks all of you for your responses.

Hello all. . Travel questions -

The wife and I are going to Assisi, Pisa and Rome on vacation this October and I

plan to shoot some photos. I will be carrying a 35mm Elan and a couple lenses

in a Lowepro Backpack. Is that a safety issue? Photo suggestions in the

Assisi-Pisa area? I am undecided on carrying the flash.

We are also going to Oslo. I understand it can be cool. Any rain?

Thanks JP

Hello If you are a pro don't under price yourself. If the prints are in deteriorated condition then one to 10 hours per page might be light.

 

I've had to deal with a portrait print (color 70s vintage professional portrait printed on silk or canvas texture) that had thousands of dots where the framing had rubbed the canvas texture. And thats just the acerage. In the fine areas (the eyes and faces) a significant amount of work was needed. I delivered one color file and one BW file because the BW really turned out better. Even after correction, the color balance and saturation was poor.

 

So, the post scan editing is where the work is. If the originals are perfect, one hour to scan and clean up? If deteriorated, price accordingly.

I have owned an R1800 for a year now and I am very pleased with the printer. The prints are jaw-drop good. Maintenance is minimal in comparison to my old Epson 810. Comparativly inexpensive for a larger format printer and all in all an excellent printer.

 

Your portfolio is pretty arty. Only you can judge whether this is the printer for you.

Hello From your post I take it you are looking for a film camera, and for something pretty inexpensive. Here are some Canon choices

 

Canon FTb, A-1, F1n through T90 are mechanical film cameras with manual manual manual settings and capabilities. These are antique (70s thru 90s vintage) cameras that are available at your local pawn type shops. Good cameras but likely deteriorated by age. Probably free or nearly so. Usually no motor drive.

 

Later edition film cameras in the current EOS era are the Rebel series up to pro grade EOS1 film bodies. These are film cameras with built in motor drive and with auto exposure and auto focus capability. They also have manual manual manual settings and capabilities. That is, they can be set to be auto every thing and to manual exposure and manual focus, and every stage in between. Can be inexpensive $100-300, or not so inexpensive, and are available on KEH.com or EBay. These are very capable modern film cameras. The advantage of this group is that it gets you into the current edition Canon EOS lens family.

 

If you want a film SLR type camera your choices are multitude and pretty dang inexpensive.

We probably have someone here who actually knows this stuff but - - I suspect if you subject any freezer to high temperatures for a period of time the insulation will outgas. The vapors will coat everything inside rendering it useless.

Your best bet is off site storage of mirror copies.

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Hello The goods and the bads - In my opinion the MicroTrekker 200 is well designed, well built and fairly priced. It sounds like it will fit your kit. The tripod carry is secure, subject to the discussion below, but of course try before you buy. It is easy to carry all day and your equipment will be secure and protected. I like the MicroTrekker 200 so much I bought a second.

 

With this photo backpack I find myself carrying the camera in my hand most of the time with the backpack on one or both shoulders. It is suitable for long distance carries. Changing lenses can be cumbersome because you need a clean level place to open the backpack and do the change. The tripod carrier for the Microtrekker 200 is a pair of loops on the bottom of the bag. The tripod is carried horizontal. If the tripod is short you?re good to go. If the tripod is long, then it will stick out on both sides.

 

Try it? Buy it? In any case you might keep your slingshot.

Hello -

I second the recommendation for the MicroTrekker 200. Comfortable. Fair sized (suitable for one SLR and lenses). Fairly priced. . I like mine so well, I bought a second for my second body. Now we have two setups. One family and portrait and flash, and one outdoor, walkaround and available light.

 

Well made. The inserts are easily adjustable. For an all day trip with the family, leave the extra stuff home.

http://www.pbase.com/cameras/fujifilm/finepix_z5_fd

 

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Fujifilm/

Hello . I shoot 35mm film. Most often I have it processed at RITZ. No prints and a high rez CD. High rez is about 12 megapixels. They also offer a regular rez CD at about 8 megapixels. Not bad for the price.

I do all my post processing on my own computer and print my own work on my Epson R1800 for 8-1/2 x 11 or larger. Small home and family prints (4 x 6) I upload to the Ritz store and pick up.

The store I use is Orange County CA, Harbor Blvd in Costa Mesa. Generally clean and well run. Adequate maintenance. Cooperative staff. Not bad for the price.

You will love doing your own post processing. It's what separates the serious photographers from the moms and pops.

Hello

 

I have an Canon A710IS. How large a memory card will it tolerate? I'm planning

a trip and this 1 gig card will be too small.

 

thanks

I had Ross Yerkes (in Los Angeles) CLA my C330 and he did a good job. You might ask him. You have to call him though. I don't think he has Email or web access!

 

Ross Yerkes Camera Repair 342 Kirby Street Los Angeles, CA 90042

Telephone (323)256-1018

 

If you are in LA by all means drop it off. Finding Kirby Street is an adventure, and Ross is what you might call an original character. I enjoyed the visit.

The classic portrait setup for full frame cameras is 100 or 135mm with 2.0 or 2.8 max aperture. Shooting tight shots at f2.8 or f2.0 will make the subject POP OUT from the background. There are a lot of great choices at this focal length range. You can't go wrong.

 

Sounds like a fun project. I'd also shoot some normal focal length and some wide angle for environmental (include the Boston background) shots. It should be fun if the wee ones are in good spirits.

I've had mine for 6 months now and I am very pleased. The results are good, great or spectacular.

 

I haven't had much trouble with banding or needing excessive cleaning cycles. My previous Epson printer (I hate to admit it, but it was an 820) needed endless cleaning cycles before I got a good print. Before I leave it sit for a few days, I shut it down and it seems to start up just fine. Paper and ink are fairly expensive, this is a semi-large format printer after all.

 

Last night I made a print I call "the Polish tourists from Las Vegas loved Death Valley" It shows Polish tourists wandering out onto the salt flats at Badwater. Brilliant blue sky, white salt flats. Tourists.

 

All in all it is well worth the money.

I don't know what the manufacturer says, but I recommend running them through all shutter speeds and arpertures once a year. And the lenses too.

 

My experience with my old Canon film bodies (A1 and FTb's)-- They were stored in a clean dry trunk in a clean dry room for longer than 10 years. Exercising the FTbs through their paces seemed to bring them back to nominal (at least my ear says so). The A1 hangs up on cocking in a funny way. Shoots and exposes correctly, but the cocking mechanism doesn't operate fully.

 

The most deteriorated items in the trunk were the lens cases. The foam fell apart badly and there are crumbs of foam in some of the lenses.

Good idea. The wife and I skiied in Angel Fire a couple years ago, and we did some photography. Taos and the Taos pueblo in the winter is beautiful. There is a loop running counter clockwise out of Angel Fire and back through Taos that is well worth the drive. And it's hard to beat New Mexican green chili stew.

About a week ago someone posted and message on haze. I was busy at the time,

and didn't have time to comment. I can't seem to find the specific thread

becasue the search routine doesn't see to take a date range. But anyway . .

 

Let me suggest targeted local contrast enhancement using long raduis unsharp

mask. It's easy and it works great.

 

http://www.lonestardigital.com/photoshop_quicktips.htm

I use the Santa Ana (CA) shop a lot for process and scans. A fairly large semi-pro shop. Fairly clean and the staff tries to produce good qaulity work. This year the've complained somewhat about continuing problems with the processing machine. They try to do good quality work and every time I've had a problem they've made it right.

Hello I have a 7n and an 580EX and here are my observations

 

 

1. I have a 7n and a Rebel Ti. They are both very quick to focus. The rebel Ti feels faster, probably because it's noisy and abrupt. But it is lightning quick. By comparison the 7n is silky smooth and silent (and quick). Canon sells an $80 50mm 1.8 lens thats a fun candid no-flash-needed-most-of-the-time lens. Very sharp, quick and cheap.

 

2. The 7n on-camera flash is pretty useless as it is small, weak and sometimes can be obscured by the lens hood or the barrel of the lens. The blinding white light is pretty awful for focus assist but it does work. The on-camera flash can be used in a pinch.

 

3. The 580EX on the 7n is a pretty good rig. For hot shoe flash it's pretty powerful and tuneable. The focus assist is a red light that was effective as far as I had distance in my house. With some sort of light modifier (Lightsphere or Lumiquest) it's a great portrait setup.

Colin, those are terrific shots. Wow!

Hello I've shot at the beach quite a bit over the years. These are all good suggestions. Sand is an issue and blowing salt air is an issue. If you can't stand some degradation, don't take the camera. -Oh by the way, taking an expensive camera to the barbeque eatery is a lot worse than the beach.

 

Post exposure cleaning - protect the lenses with a filter, and clean afterwards. Camera body: A shaving brush is good for knocking off any sand grains you might have picked up. I'm afraid salt spray and metal parts (you camera does have some exposed metal parts) is a bad combination. At the end of the week, I suggest cleaning the outside of your equipment with water and alcohol (50-50) using a cloth wrung very dry.

 

My position is "if I can't use it, why own it?" Anyway, have fun.