jim_k.

Don't have your MS D70 with you either? That would be your best bet. Get one of those and you can just use disposable lithium batteries.

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Hot lights are way dimmer than strobes. Granted I have been shooting with cheap lights. I have done portrait shoots with hot lights (three 500w units) and the best I could do was F/2.8 at 1/80 with the D70 set on ISO 200. My cheap interfit 250i monolight is way brighter.

 

Unless you are using alot of lights and really bright ones dont expect F/11 at any low ISO setting.

Try Danella's, 410 James street in utica. Phone number 315-732-8442. Im pretty sure they do 4x5 development.

The Black River. Other than that the only other thing i have shot in that area is the local graveyard, which is huge and set back on a hill just off the main highway (rt 12).

The only flash that will work for what you are asdking is the SB-26.

It has a built in optical sync and a delay switch. Set the sync to delay and it will not sync to the TTL preflashes, it will fire with the main light.

I have ahd problems recently with picasa. I used it to straighten a bunch of photos from a body building show then I used my standard automated photoshop action to crop all of them. Some of the photos did not crop correctly. The straighten process in picasa seems to make cropping inaccurate in certain cases. Picasa warns you about this with its cropping tool, but I did not think it would bother anything once I closed the program. Editing in picasa also seems to make some photos refuse to autorotate in PS7. Not a big deal if you don't used the straighten function or batch crop things in PS.

I wish I had a 1.2. This was shot on T-max 100 with an F100 and a 50mm F/1.4 AFD.<div></div>

It could just be shallow depth of field. I find that when I shoot fast primes with my D70 it occaisionally has trouble focusing on what I would like it to. This is caused by the autofucus sensors not being exactly where they are marked in the viewfinder or by a close backround object being a much better target contrast wise. I assume that canon's lower end DSLRs would have the same problem.

 

The major problem is that the viewfinder is too small to accurately tell if the object you are try to lock on too is actual what the camera is focusing on. I would further test the lens by setting up some shots of distint objects against a featureless wall so the camera has nothing in the backround to confuse it.

I have done shoots for my friends band with a D70 under similar circumstances. I use mostly the 50mm f/1.4 and 85mmf/1.8. Manual mode, spotmetering and iso 1600. In tough light I sometimes convert to B&w rather than try to color correct. <A HREF="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evil_genius_photography/sets/72057594112550316/">Here's</a> an example. This is there first show. I shot with out flash most of the time. This was lit by three colored tungsten floods, very low wattage. I spotmetered off their faces and then opened up a stop.

I would like to help too (if I can). Send as many as you like to evilgeniusphotography at gmail dot com. Please don't use the e-mail listed in my profile, it's old and i don't check it very often.

I often drink while photographing. The vast majority of my street stuff is shot in and around bars. Lately I have been working on a documentary project with my buddies band and they decided to stop drinking during rehearsal. This means I have to make two stops on the ways to the shoot, one for film and one for beer.

Just learn to use aperture priority. From what i understand A-DEP just lets you set a depth of field, this seems like a crutch for people too bothered to learn ho aperture and focal length relate to depth of field. A google search (or a forums search) would provide you with some basic info about this. Experiment, the best part about digital photograph is that you can shoot to your hearts content and figure out what works for you.

non-ai lenses are missing the ai indexing cut out. look at the aperture ring of the lens. is the the edge that buts up against the camera smooth all the way around or is it missing a big chunk? if the aperture ring sits flush to the lensmount, then its non-ai.

I shoot weddings with a D70 and a pair of F100s. I use the 24mmf2.8, the 50mmf/1.4 and the 85mmf1.8. Your milage may vary however, I use mostly available light and need fast lenses. That and i prefer to shoot with prime lenses, in the near future I'm looking to add a 135 f/2 or a 105f/2.8 and maybe (if i can afford it) a 28f/1.4. <P>

I find the 85mm gives me a long enough reach to get my alter shots and the 24mm works great for groups and as a general lens.

Thats not a bad price. i Paid more for the last F100 i bought, my 2nd, and that was body only. The only things that are concerning on used F100s are the rewind forks and the meter switches. Make sure you have the updated rewind forks, google it to find out what I'm talking about. Occiasionally the meter switch on these bodies goes nuts, my 1st F100 had the problem. You'll have the switch set on spot or centerweighted and the camera will revert to matrix metering. A quick flick on the switch returns it to your selected metering mode, but i wouldn't buy a body with the problem.<P>Iwould use your 85mm lens for portraits, thats what i use mine for. I love that lens.

i love my 24mm afd. the crop factor makes it a 36mm f/2.8 on digital, perfect for a no nonsense walk around lens, or a light portrait kit when tossed in a bag with your 50mm. the only problem i have with it is flare, point light sources in its field of view create ugly purple blobs. this is going to be a problem with any lens you pick though, especially wide angle and zooms.

My first Nikon was a Nikkormat FTN with a 50mm f/1.4 non ai lens. I have since up graded to a couple of F100s, but the Nikkormat remains my choice when I dont feel like carrying a camera bag. The wein cell for the meter died, I never bothered to replace it, I only shoot high speed black and white in it anyways.

it gets darker because the lens apeture is stopping down to the size it will be when you release the shutter. this actually allows you to see what will be sharp (ie; in the plane of focus) on the final photograph.

try developing the TMX in HC-110. I usually rate it at EI 80 and develop for about 6 mins, your milage may vary though i shoot 35mm.

I shoot with a 24mm f/2.8, a 50mm f/1.4, and an 85mm f/1.8 on my F100. those cover me for the vast majority of situations.

if you have distintly differnt areas with distinctly different color casts my suggestion would be to color correct each area with an adjustment layer and use a mask to paint each area.

i constantly have my shoulder bag with me. it contains my F100, 85mm, 50mm, 24mm, and around ten rolls of film. at least most people settle for something pocketable, i just can bear not having one of my slrs with me. some day i would like to upgrade to a rangefinder for around town.

i bought a paterson kit. plastic reel, plastic tank, room for two reels. the reels are easy to load do to their ratcheting action. everything after you load the rels in the tank can be done in the light. ive never had a problem with them.

i have an F100 and i love it, in fact im buying a second one. if sturdy and responsive is what you are looking for the F100 is what you want. the preset modes that you are talking about <I>are</I> bells and whistles and a crutch that you dont need. i dont mean to be insulting or anything but using those modes are (in my opinion) the worst possible thing you could do to your growth as a photographer. im not saying that you should put on the hair shirt and always use manual mode, but you can do anything those 'point and shoot' modes do with apeture and shutter priority. the build quality of the F100 is much better than even its closest cousin, the N80, it has this very reassuring heft.