darrell_lee1

If you shoot night football, indoor gymnastics, night tennis matches, concerts, night clubs, night scenes, long exposures, low light natural light settings... the D700 might be worthy of upgrading.

 

I have at least 20 Nikon film bodies and 50+ Nikkors and I upgraded my D70 to the D200 and was waiting for a body like the D700 and dang, now it's here... I love to shoot all the above so I'm planning to upgrade to the D700, I had no interest in upgrading to the D300 as it wasn't enough of a difference for me.

 

I upgraded from the D70 because the D200 had superior images, faster FPS and most importantly would meter with my AI Nikkor MF lenses. Otherwise I was perfectly happy with my D70. I also love the 8 FPS with the D700 for shooting motor racing and action sports. Looks like a huge winner of a camera. Finally, WTG Nikon!

 

I resisted buying any DX lenses excepting the 17-55mm which I felt I would need when I was requested to shoot a wedding, otherwise all my lenses are FX/35mm lenses.

 

Many cite the high cost of FX lenses... Are you kidding me??? Go out and buy a 55mm Micro Nikkor AI manual focus lens... I've bought ugly abused samples for as cheap as 20 bucks and they are incredibly sharp! Or my 55mm AI f/1.2 paid $150 or my 105mm AIS Micro for $250, etc... MF Micros are an especially great buy as you will be manually focusing most of the time on tripod anyway... don't need VR AF Micro.

I picked one up a few weeks ago cheap, but it needs some work, however for the $120 I paid, it will be an interesting project. The bellows is in fine shape, the extension rail and removeable tripod mount are with the camera and it came with a 4x5 graflex back (no glass/unmounted), no lensboard and a whole bunch of expired film 10+ yrs old of Kodak E6 stuff. Should I even bother to test a sheet?

 

I think I will tackle the job to refinish this camera after reading the below article of a B&J refinish.

 

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/burke-james/restore8x10.html

 

Some idiot covered the entire camera with gaffers tape years ago.

 

No ground glass (purchased waiting to arrive)

 

The two front standard adjustment screws are loose and the studs pull out, so cannot tighten. Question: Can you recommend best way to reattach? Epoxy? Take a hammer to the studs?

 

I'm hesitant to strip the gray paint to expose the natural wood grain as then it becomes a refinish and not a restoration. On my antique bamboo fly rods, I would never do a refinish as it kills the value. Any opinions?

I shot about 5 rolls of the 120 Arista Ultra Edu and all of the rolls had streaks in it. I rewashed and dried, still there. This is the only film that did this. The results is that my prints look like there's lightning in the skies.

 

It was cheap, but I can't recommend it. I was using the ISO200 film.

 

Anybody else have this problem?

I got some old 1996 Provia 4x5 sheets from one source that is useable but a slight color shift and I also got some T64 Quickloads 2002 that is totally junk from a different source.

 

It was cheap, but at the cost of processing and wasted time, not worth it... The seller insisted it was good and always cold stored... but I can probably get a refund/exchange so all is not lost... but heck, I only paid $10 for a box of 20 so it was REAAAAALY cheap, and I also bought a boatload of other film from him at a super bargain price so one bad apple out of 20 boxes of film at 70% off of everything is still a good deal overall.

The Blackbird manual ad on his site says he gives you the info to make your own seals for pennies. Anybody have his manual and made your own seals?

The aftermarket place that sells the seals also wrote a manual for $65 and says he will show you how to make the seals. Anybody make their own seals? I need several sets. There's a guy selling Hassey seals and wants about $28 with s/h.

 

I guess I'll have to make a trip down to Samy's or Simons to get a price.

I use Hewes reels for 35mm and they have the sprocket tines, but the 120/220 seem to be about the same as the other cheaper makers reels, no?

Yes, I'm aware the the full power model lamp setting, and I suppose it's not a big deal to me as I have a good flash meter (Sekonic L358). It just would be nice if the model lamps tracking output would be somewhat close with the two different heads.

 

I think I read that the 250w lamps are okay if you are careful. I also thought that if the 1600 heads are turned way down, the heat build up wouldn't be much different than the 400's at a higher setting with the 150w lamps.

 

Since I haven't used the Bees yet, I'm asking some dumb questions. I'm sure many/most of my questions will be answered once I shoot with them a few times.

 

Thanks.

Tom, I think I have a spare sensor for a 285 if you need just the standard one that comes with the flash. Email me if still interested. I will be placing an ad selling my Vivitar 285's in the classified's as I finally picked up a set of four Alien Bees, so I don't need all six of my Vivitar 285's anymore. <P>

<img border="0" src="http://www.pixs.ws/gallery2/albums/album01/Ericab3338frm.jpg" width="689" height="961">

 

<P>Taken with my Nikon D70, Vivitar 285 bounced, 1/800sec, f/2.8 80-200mm AF-D lens at F.L. 200mm

I just got four Bees, two 400's and two 1600's and got a pretty good

buy, despite no reflectors or soft cases. I've ordered two 7"

reflectors and a couple speedrings, remote control and a Vagabond

150, 2 sets of aftermarket barn doors w/grids and gel filters and a

few other pieces.

 

Should I get one or more of the 11" reflectors, the AB peeps didn't

think I needn't them unless I was going to light a gym or football

field...

 

Anyway, I'd read so much about the Halogena bulbs, I looked high and

low visiting several Home Depots for the elusive 150 watt Phillips

Halogena bulbs. I finally found a store that had some. Interesting

that they had two types... Some "assembled in Mexico" and some made

in France. So I bought all seven bulbs they had in stock made in

France. I presume these are older stock but I don't know.

 

My question, does anybody know if these bulbs are about the same or

is one type better than the other?

 

Without reflectors, I compared the light output between the 100 watt

bulbs that came with the Bees vs the Halogena bulbs and there was

very little difference, head on, without reflectors (since I don't

have them yet). When I measure the light from an angle the Halogenas

are about 20% brighter.

 

Did the Halogenas seem much brighter to you?

 

I'm wondering if anybody has any recommendations for a 250 watt bulb

for my 1600's. I'm thinking if I used them with the power dialed

down, along with my 400's the modeling lamp might be too dim.

 

Any comments?

 

I already own many of the basics... backdrop stands, boom, light

stands, softboxes, umbrellas, reflectors, etc... so I'm pretty

excited to finally own my own lights.

 

I'm probably going to need a couple, three more light stands...

which would you recommend?

 

Thanks!

It would be nice if paid subscribers wouldn't have to endure the online ads... Sort of like network tv vs pay per view.

I also have a D70 and crappy vision so I rely heavily on the rangefinder led on the D70 with my AI lenses.

I recently bought 3 polaroid backs, one Hassey and two NPC. The Hassey was rated Bargain and the NPC's were ugly... They Hassy showed some wear but looks pretty good. The NPC's are ugly... one of the slides is a homemade replacement and both have seen a LOT of use. But they both appear to work fine.

robbie - My first 4x5 was a Crown Graphic and once I made a contact print of Half Dome, Yosemite from Glacier Point I was hooked! I just bought a super lightweight wood camera 4x5 so I'm selling the Crown Graphic w/ lens, manual, film holders, Graflock back for $275. But if you are going to be hiking long distance into the wilderness, I'd recommend a sub-3 pound camera like I bought. New they range from $600-4,000, I bought a vintage Nagaoka for $450.

 

If you are only planning to shoot near the car or in the studio, the Graphic is fine. If you are planning only studio, then a monorail camera is the way to go.

 

I will be selling the Crown as well as a Toyo Omega View and a Calumet 4x5 and keeping a Calumet for studio use. I have two because after I bought the first one, the second one came up with a bag bellows and a recessed lens board and a lens that I wanted so I sprung for it too. But really, five 4x5 cameras is more than I need...

 

I am now looking into the Mamiya RZ67 Pro something as I think I will like the format better than the Hasseys 6x6 format.

 

But you can't go wrong with the Hassey...

 

Just preordered a Nikon D200 so I will be selling my D70 and one of mytwo Nikon F4s bodies...

 

I find that my digital images from my D70 come out better than my 35mm prints and some say the D70 images are superior to most MF format prints... I haven't blown up enough MF large prints to decide on my own yet... But with digital becoming the way to play, the bargains in 35mm and MF are too irresistable to me!

 

Wheeeeee... isn't the buy/sell/trade game fun!

I wanted to buy a used Hassey... bought two yesterday, waiting impatiently for a D200 as well... that will replace my Nikon D70 and go along with my two F4s, FE, FM, EM and four Nikon F's. Oh, and my 32+ Nikon lenses... That damn D70, it got me soooo hooked on photography again... Oh, did I mention my FIVE 4x5 cameras and sixlenses for them?

 

Every single item except 3-5 Nikon lenses were bought in the last 12 months, talk about binge buying... I already traded away my Nikon 8008 and 4004 which were bodies I owned before I got the D70.

 

Then there's the darkroom equipment...

I currently use TMAX Developer RS Replenisher to develop most of my

sheet film and roll film, but I also have a pack of new D76 powder

that I was planning to use on some roll film (Arista Ultra) that

doesn't give dev times for Tmas RS.

 

I want to use some old D76R Replenisher powder that it several years

old that I have thinking this would be very economical development

costs. questions...

 

1) Is D76R still good have several/many years in the powder form? No

exp date on it like the D76 pack.

 

2) Is anyone using D76R and happy/unhappy with their results?

 

3) Any words of wisdom when using D76R?

 

Normally I process my film at the college, but I have the tanks and

chemicals and a changing bag, so I thought what the heck, I can

process my film at home.

I'm taking my second photo class there and it's a blast! Cost for the first class is Photo 10 was about $125 plus supplies to develop/print 35mm. The current class I'm now taking is Photo 1 (go figure) and we develop/print medium format and 4x5. Very intense, lots of work... But very good. Oh, school loans Hasseys for the med. format assignments if you don't have your own 120 cam. Ditto with the 4x5's.

 

Otherwise there's the LA Photo Center near Beverly/Rampart.

Thanks, yes I already have the foam and have just installed it. The shutter speeds sound pretty accurate, so I now and a cool camera ready to go!

 

Next, gotta test the light meter readings against my Sekonic L-358 meter and then I'll really be ready.

 

I've read with the alkaline batteries to drop the ISO speed down a stop. The adjusting the meter looks a bit daunting for me to mess with.

 

Thanks again

I just bought this camera and everything seems to work great. Put in

a new meter battery, cleaned it up a bit but I'm wondering if the

mirror is suppose to hit the metal bumper or is there supposed to be

some foam there to cushion the mirror.

 

My other cameras have foam there so I thought that my Minolta should

too, but I don't know.

 

Anybody out there know the answer?

 

Thanks

 

darrelll

Best to find one made of magnesium... nice hot flame, burns underwater too... lol

>>>Are you putting the grafmatic under a spring back or clipping it into a graflok back? If it isn't seated properly under a spring back you might have a leak at one end. Was the light leakage uniform across the sheet or in one particular spot?

 

It was leaking on the edge with the notch, not across the whole sheet.

 

>>> Do you leave the grafmatic in place till you have shot all six sheets or are you taking it on and off? If the tray hasn't clicked back fully into place there might be enough of a gap at the other end to cause fogging, but it would only be on one end of the sheet.

 

I don't remember, didn't take detailed notes. If it was operator error, I would guess that perhaps I didn't seat the grafmatic correctly and it was left in place.

 

>>> Does your darkroom have flourescent lights?

 

No, total darkness and I loaded all 3 backs at the same time.

 

>>> Is the light leak at the darkslide/cycling end of the grafmatic? The grafmatics have three felt light traps that come unglued or worn that cause this problem, I have one that leaks at the edges of the darkslide.

 

Not quite clear on your questions. The back is loaded and after I test this set of sheets, I'll check again. I didn't notice any problem with the felts or I would have replaced them. I will check out the links you gave me.

 

++++

 

Thanks all, anybody else have any thoughts please share.

 

Darrell

I was given a Crown Graphic Field camera about 15 yrs ago but

couldn't figure out why the film holders I was also given seemed to

not fit right. Last month when I got serious about using the camera,

I figured out that I had 3.25x4.25 holders and not the 4x5's that I

needed.

 

I was fortunate to find a very knowledgeable photo guy that is local

that I bought some correct film holders. He also looked the camera

over and gave me some very useful pointers as well as a flash cable.

 

Later, when picking up a Nikkor lens I won for a different camera

the seller also had the Grafmatics as well as a Polaroid 545 holder

so I took a stab and bought them not knowing if they'd work/fit,

etc. Fortunately, they were correct and I got a good buy on them.

 

I did have to do some minor straightening of the septums and I did

test to make sure the film smoothly slides in and out and did a bit

of correcting the grooves.

 

One Grafmatic holder showed light leakage on all six negatives so

that I lose about 10-15% because of the fogging. I took it apart and

cannot find anything wrong as compared to my two other holders which

tested fine.

 

I reassembled it and loaded it with photo paper and left it in the

sun for 15 minutes in various positions so as to be sure it got

direct sunlight everywhere but it showed light tight.

 

I loaded them all at the same time in a darkroom so I suspect it to

be pilot error. I've reloaded it with film and will test it again to

see if it continues to leak light.

 

Anyone know of this problem and if so, any recommendations?

 

While I own 35mm's, a Rollie TLR and a DSLR, this old ratty 4x5

fascinates me and I love being able to actually work on it and fix

it in my limited ways.

 

The lens/shutter was sticking and was told to lube it with a few

drops of lighter fluid and it now works smoothly. The shutter speeds

are way off at the slow speeds and I have no way to test the higher

speeds.

 

I've replaced the light seals at the holders and ordered a new

ground glass, lubed the original lens/shutter (shutter was sticking)

bought a new (used) lens with a shutter tested for speed accuracy

and gave the Graflex a good cleaning...

 

All good fun!

Thanks for your answers all!

I recently shot my first box of 25 sheets b/w film on an old Crown

Graphic 4x5 someone gave me many years ago that I recently decided

to use. I was in Yosemite for this test... What better place? I

developed and printed my first images with so so results thus far.

But that's another topic.

 

I have both standard film holders and 3 grafmatic holders and was

wondering about shooting some color neg/slide film... I don't want

to attempt to develop/print color at this time. How do I deliver the

film to the lab, do I remove the film from the holders and put it in

the film box or leave it in the holders or what?

 

Thanks all...