franco_manitto

I tried this paper developer in combination with Ilford Warmtone Paper as recommended, but I did not find appreciable warm tone change v/s normal Ilfospeed developer.

Has someone some experience about the matter?

<p>Therefore with 1 l of TMAX DEV. we make 5 l of working solution.<br>

With 1 l of working solution we can develop 12 rolls with time increase.<br>

Therefore with 1 l of TMAX DEV, we can develop 60 rolls. <br>

More or less, is it not an exaggerated number? In comparison, with 1 l of D 76 we can process only 4 rolls (Kodak J-78), and with 1l of XTOL 15 rolls (KODAK J-109) with time compensation...</p>

 

<p>Hello Glen.<br>

For the photo try to point with right click and "copy image address" (or similar...). Let me know...</p>

<p>I should add a question to this discussion.<br>

In my opinion is not clear if the T MAX DEV. capacity specified by Kodak is related to the concentrated or diluted (working solution) chemical.<br>

The Kodak Technical Publication j86 does not specify clearly: <br>

<em>The capacity of this developer with normal processing is</em><br /><em>approximately 48 rolls of 135-36 or 120 film per gallon (or equivalent), with time compensation,</em><br>

but direction on an ancient 1l bottle specified: <em>working solution: 1l= 12 film with time compensation,</em> and direction on a recent 1l bottle is less straightforward (photo). http://imgur.com/a/Jg6gy <br>

I should like to have the forum opinion...</p>

<p> <br><I>Note: photo link corrected by Moderator</I></P>

</p>

<p>I have a Yashicamat that in two occasions showed decrease of sharpness and contrast.<br>

It was necessary to dismantle the lens and clean the interior.</p>

<p>Regarding the issue of using a part of a bag of powder I contribute with my experience.<br>

Many years ago I worked in a photographic firm that produced many types of films and chemicals.<br>

I remember that the powder chemicals were prepared in very large container where they were thoroughly mixed and then packaged in the required size.<br>

Therefore I argue that it is possible to divide the quantity, providing some additional mixing for safety's sake, in two or three parts, maintaining the proportion of the components.</p>

<p><em>Mirror box <strong>latch</strong>ing that holds the spring pressure, is sporadic due to faulty lubricant.</em><br /><em>People call it a "shutter release", but it actually releases the mirror box; the mirror box then fires the shutter...</em><br>

<em> </em><br>

Thanks for the answer!<br>

Is the suggested lubrication possible via dismantling the bottom cover or needs a more complicated action? <br>

Any suggestion where to find a suitable exploded picture to properly locate the latching?</p>

 

<p>My Nikon Fe started to show this strange behavior.<br /> 1 step. After advancing and then releasing the advance lever the shutter is independently released without pressing the button.<br /> 2 step. Advancing and releasing the film are normal and I can shot the picture pressing the button.<br /> 3 step. Same as step 1<br /> 4 Same as step 2<br /> 5 Same as step 1<br /> 6 same as step 2<br /> and son on... <br /> The behavior in the same shooting in A mode, in manual mode and in M 90 mode. Batteries are ok.<br /> Anyone have some suggestion? Thanks!</p>

I thank Jorge for the advice. At last I did the work. Indeed I check again the cam that was in the right position so I started to remove the leather...

With a lot of care I peeled the top of the rangefinder and I found, on the sides, 4 plastic wedges like plastic stuffing, necessary to the leather to follow the sides contour, who concealed 4 screws. Their removal allowed to remove the trapezoidal cover together with the front and rear rangefinder and viewfinder lenses, giving access to the rangefinder, the distance needle and the viewfinder frames assemblies.

With discomfort I fount hat the only possible calibration was the distance needle alone&all the other mechanisms been soundly fastened. So I started again a thorough investigation of the leverage who transfers the cam movement to the rangefinder, finding at last a screw which I found could be reached easily, pulling up 2 cm of leather cover on the right bottom corner of the body back (removal of the revolving back helps). After some trial and error, about half a turn rotation of the screw restored the calibration.

I hope this description can help somebody to avoid unnecessary work!

Ciao.

Following a ligth shock to the camera, the rangefinder of my Horseman

VH-R does never measure the correct distance.

I think that something went out of alignement inside the rangfinder

assembly itself. Considering that rangefinder and the viewfinder are

contained in a box superimposed to the camera body (that is the VH

camera one), I assume that, separating this part, should be possible

to reach the rangefinder compartment and do some kind of calibration.

The problem is that I dont understand where to begin a careful

disassembly.

Can anybody give some advice or address me where to find an exploded

view of the camera that will ease the work a lot? I already asked , in

vain, for an exploded view of the rangefinder to the Horseman Co.

Ciao.