rafal_m
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Posts posted by rafal_m
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Well... some of you may remember that I was selling off my Leica gear
to finance my move to large format photography. I've been using LF
for a while now and enjoy it immensely (and will continue to use it
for a very long time to come), but the Leica Madness is once again
taking over. ;) I'm once again in to Leica and anticipating my
new/old camera to come in shortly. I really don't know what it is
about these cameras; the craftsmanship, the easy ergonomics, the
lenses, or just some strange voodoo magic that's cast on each camera
before it leaves the factory. :D
Anybody else experience the Leica Madness?
Cheers,
Rafal
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Hello everybody,
Just a quick question; are all 250 exposure film magazines (for 35mm
cameras) compatible between brands?... For example, can you use
Pentax brand film holders inside Nikon backs (and vice versa)?
Cheers,
Rafal
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I'm a packrat and can not even think of disposing of any of my originals. I keep everything, even the rolls that have been exposed/developed incorrectly. Each one being a stepping stone towards the future, and it would be a crying shame to dispose of them... Yes, I do have a ton of slides/negatives/prints packed away compromising the structural supports of my apartment. :)
Cheers,
Rafal
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<p>That's an amazing photograph there Jim. Are those authentic clubs too? Personally I really like the combination of old and new, or the recreation of old but using new techniques. Good work, keep posting some more. :)</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>Rafal</p>
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<p>For me, availability is the main factor as to which I purchase. The 1.5V size are available at any corner store and sometimes sold in packs of two, while the 3V is not as readily available.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>Rafal</p>
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<p>I will have to second the nomination for "The Hasselblad Manual." I picked this book up before I got my first Hasselblad camera. This book also contains a ton of general photography information, making it an indispensable resource.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>- Rafal</p>
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<p>Hello Paul,</p>
<p>For my still life and landscape photography; I have used just a small note pad. I would write down the frame number, a short description as to what the photo is about (and sometime my inspiration for it), followed by the basics (lens used, film type & speed, shutter speed, aperture, type of metering used, etc). One of my friends used a small PDA to write the same information down.</p>
<p>Hope this helps and good luck,</p>
<p>Rafal</p>
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<p>Hello Jace,</p>
<p>I've used a monopod with a Rolleicord and it works great, but I personally haven't tried it with a Hassy. The added support does wonders for stability, especially at slow shutter speeds. I gather that the increased weight of the 503CW may be of concern; on the other hand the added support is definitely a plus. In the end: a tripod is better then a monopod, but a monopod is better then no support.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>Rafal</p>
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<p>Hello Aaron,</p>
<p>A good condition Rolleicord V (any of the three: V, Va, and Vb) can be obtained from $200 to $400 (based on condition and amount of accessories offered). A CLA, from a reputable camera technician, will cost around $90 to $120 (plus parts). Generally it is a good idea to assume that you're going to have the camera serviced, so automatically factory that into the overall cost of the camera.</p>
<p>One major thing to look for is if there are any signs that the camera has been dropped. If it has been dropped, then you are looking at a miss aligned lens's (which is a very costly endeavor to rectify). Ask if you can run a roll through the camera and examine the slides afterwards (make note as to where you were focusing at each frame). The second item to look for is separated lens elements on both the viewing and taking lens (both in the front and back groups). This can be spotted by a distinctive line of discolouration (like gasoline in water) where the lens has separated and no discolouration where it is still together. The elements can be fully separated and recemented together again, but this takes time and is an additional expenditure (of time and sanity).</p>
<p>Good luck,</p>
<p>Rafal</p>
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<p>Hello Dan</p>
<p>What do you mean by "completely burned out"? As in individual fames burned out, or the whole roll (edge to edge). If just the individual frames are burned out, then you're lens is most likely in need of a servicing (shutting staying open longer then it is being set for). If the whole film is burned out, then there could be massive light leak or missloaded film or misshape at the photo lab... But all this is just speculation without anymore information. Could you describe, or better yet take a digital photo of your film roll. That way, knowing the patter of burn out (if there is one) would help in identifying the culprit.</p>
<p>Good luck,</p>
<p>Rafal</p>
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<p>Hello everybody,</p>
<p>I was just wondering if a Bessa R2A or R3A can have a Leica
Visoflex mounted on it? Basically, is the distance between the top of
the camera on the Bessa the same as the Leica M? So that the prism
viewfinder can be mounted without any necessary modification.</p>
<p>I've already got the Visoflex and I'm currently thinking of getting
Bessa R2A or R3A (not to worry, I'm not going to berate the forum with
"which one should I get" type nonsensical question).</p>
<p>Thank you all for your help.</p>
<p>Rafal</p>
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<p>Hello R.H.</p>
<p>The most likely culprit is that the inside mechanism is starting to tighten up due to lack of lubrication. Probably all that is needed is a CLA (cleaning, lubrication, adjustment) and the camera should be good as new. Take it to a reputable camera technician. Most places that I've dealt with in the past have a free inspection/examination. That way you can find out what is wrong and if it is worthwhile the cost to fix it.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>Rafal</p>
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<p>Hello David,</p>
<p>With my physical limitations, due to a disability, I have found that the Rolleicords are the lightest - highest quality - most economical cameras around. I was able to obtain a Rolleicord Va for almost a song and dance (which is really cheap given that I can't dance and my friends have a restraining order barring me from singing). <b>LOL</b></p>
<p>Seriously now, a lot of TLRs are very good quality and can be obtained at a very reasonable price. Rolleiflex cameras I find to be on the slightly bloated prices, while Rolleicords can be obtained very reasonably. Most of the other TLRs are even lower price and of acceptable quality (both in optics and mechanical build quality).</p>
<p>Hope this helps.</p>
<p>Rafal</p>
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<p>Hello Dagmar,</p>
<p>I've used both the Hama filter adapters in Bay 50 and Bay 60 sizes. The one thing that I found very annoying is that the outside diameter of the filter adapter is lightly larger then the inside diameter of the lens hood. Basically you can not get both the adapter and lens hood on at the same time. I had to file them down a little to be able to use them both at the same time.</p>
<p>The bayonet mount on the Hama filters was a little poor, and it would not hold onto the lens for long. Eventually the mount would come loose after a few times of adding and removing lenses (the thread mounted ones, not the adapter itself (the torque of the mounting the filter would loosen the adapter)).</p>
<p>Please note that this is just what I have experienced with these adapters, but I'm more then willing to hear what other people have to say about these little accessories.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>Rafal</p>
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<p>Oops, for some strange reason there was no option to attach an image with my original posting. Well... there are two very small holes on the front of the camera. Close to the corners, one at upper left and one lower left (when looking into lens).</p>
<p>R.M.</p>
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<p>Hello Everybody,</p>
<p>Just wondering what these little holes are for in the front of the
body (as pointed out by red arrows)? Do they serve some kind of
function?</p>
<p>Thank you, and best regards</p>
<p>R.M.</p>
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<p>Hello Anthony,</p>
<p>You can find a lot of Olympus OM information at this <a href="http://esif.cjb.net/">site</a>. You'll also find a <a href="http://olympus.dementia.org/eSIF/om-sif/motordrivegroup/manuals/250_filmback_1.pdf"">pdf</a> instruction manual for the 250 Film Back 1.</p>
<p>Take care and have fun.</p>
<p>R.M.</p>
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<p>Hello everybody,</p>
<p>I've just got an old Leica M3 (832XXX serial number range), and it
has the European shutter speeds (1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100...). Is it
possible to get a shutter speed upgrade to the standard shutter speeds
(1, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30, 60...)? Where is a good place where I could get
this upgrade done (preferable within the Vancouver, BC, Canada area)?</p>
<p>Thank you all in advance for your help.</p>
<p>R.M.</p>
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<p>Hello everybody,</p>
<p>I was just wondering if anyone can clear something up for me. I've
got this lens that states that it's a Wollensak 3" (75mm) f/1.9
Oscillo Raptar 1:09X. When I set the lens to infinity, all I get is a
really small image circle (about 70mm, or just under 3" in diameter).
When I set the lens out farther and cover the whole film area, then I
get a very sharp and bright macro lens. So my question is this a
dedicated macro lens or is it for a smaller format camera? Any other
information pertaining to this lens would also be greatly appreciated.</p>
<p>Thank you all in advance for your assistance.</p>
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I've had a similar problem with my Rolleicord IV; were the film advance would jam up for no reason. The one thing that I've found out while playing around with the camera was the shutter release lever was not returning to its rest position. So the internal mechanisms weren't alined, and disengaged the film advance. If you notice, the film advance is "jammed" when the shutter is set. All you have to do is wiggle the shutter release lever a little (but don't reset the shutter, 'cause you'll start making double exposures), and the internal mechanism should disengage and allow regular film advancement. But a regular CLA is highly recommended on any used item of this age.
Are the 250 exposure film magazines compatible?
in Accessories
Posted
Just like to thank everybody for their help. I've also heard that the bulk film inserts were interchangeable between brands, but wasn't too sure if that was fact or fiction.
Cheers,
Rafal