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brit

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Posts posted by brit

    Geoff Bowker's f stop corrections spreadsheet.

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p><strong>Bob </strong>I avoid that because I will be doing life size and greater than life size shots of delicate plants/flowers. Too much scope for moving my object (out of a very small dof ) in trying to rig up a ruler to be suspended in place while I view in on the GGS. Holding the ruler by hand and taking a reading there and then avoids this.</p>

    <p>I can work out basic stops like in your example but what when the factor is something like 25 and I want to apply this to time then that would take time to figure out. I mean look at the formulae in the spreadsheet...I think you do need a calculator for that outside of the 'happy accidents' of 4 etc.</p>

    <p>One more thing is that this will be in a greenhouse with available light, and the faster I can get from metering to shooting the better due to variability in light intensity. Hence having a printed table I can read off quickly such as 'factor 25 to 1/250' will be very very useful.</p>

    <p><strong>Joe </strong>I'm still not getting this...there isn't anything in lens 2 column other than 0 and #NAME?. Every cell I click on seems to have something in it already.</p>

    Geoff Bowker's f stop corrections spreadsheet.

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Hi I am about to get back into LF photography and once again my dire maths is a huge problem in taking my meter reading & exposure factor to actual exposure.</p>

    <p>However here <a href="http://www.largeformatphotography.info/bellows-factor.html">http://www.largeformatphotography.info/bellows-factor.html</a> near the bottom of the page is a spreadsheet that may help me. Maybe all I need to is print out a sizeable number of pages of the spreadsheet and maybe I can just quickly read off what my exposure time should be given a shutter reading on the lightmeter and a correction factor (from my favourite image over object plus 1 squared formula).</p>

    <p>My problem is that although the instructions to the spreadsheet are to "just feed in the focal length" I am totally bewildered when I'm looking at the thing on my screen. I know my focal length (150mm) but what on earth to do with this spreadsheet to get my quick view printouts? Can anyone help out?</p>

    Do the V700/V750 scanners work upside down?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>I have my Umax Astra 610P from new (in the 1990's) but it does not work if turned upside down. Apart from scanning films I want to scan 3D objects without the 'flattened plane of object touching the glass' syndrome, and I am asking for that last reason. I thought the V700 would be a decent all round contender (the only film I haven't got is 110 and 10'x8').<br>

    <br />I've spoken to someone who has tried a few scanners with the same aim of 3D scanning but all those he tried, likewise, would not scan. The sensor tracking mech's seem to be held inplace by gravity.<br>

    I will try Epson with this question but you know what product PR can be like so I'd like some independant feedback.<br>

    <br />May as well ask what's the drop off like with distance from the sensor if anybody has done this? Doing 3D (upright) with my scanner, after a couple of cm's most colours are 80% dark grey with a hint of colour.</p>

    <p>Back tomorrow night! :)</p>

    Scanning 120 film using a flatbed scanner WITHOUT a dedicated adapter.

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Well I'd be happy to hear comment on this review of the Epson Perfection V700 Photo scanner. The guy professes to have been testing scanners for a long time and says this flatbed is up to dedicated scanner performance.<br>

    <a href="http://www.photo-i.co.uk/Reviews/interactive/Epson%20V700/page_1.htm">http://www.photo-i.co.uk/Reviews/interactive/Epson%20V700/page_1.htm</a><br>

    I am interested as I have negs and positives of all kinds of film format, and this is where I'm leaning to.</p>

    Is this an easy repair? (Sinar back separation)

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Ah in for a penny in for a pound.<br>

    The movements are not as smooth as my MPP monorail but then I did do a complete strip clean and re-grease of that. I have a mind to do the same with this but its not your normal back..its one of those real chunky things. I think it looks like a P from what else I've seen but it was sold as an F. I dunno but is there any resource known out there to give any pointers for a complete clean (other than being found easily on Gogle).</p>

    Is this an easy repair? (Sinar back separation)

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Rounding off. I met the seller today and he has given me some money back. Now I am in the market to find a replacement back as I'm sure it would be nigh on impossible to twist the thing bacck into true...do I need to look for a particular 'model' or are all these parts interchangeable?</p>

    <p>(ps hope noobody has emailed me because my registered email is quite old and I don't know how to get into it).</p>

    Is this an easy repair? (Sinar back separation)

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Charles I am based in the UK. fwiw the twisted frame feels solid so unlikely a crack.<br>

    I actually picked the camera up in person and took great care in bringing it home, but I did not think to look to see if the standards were twisted as the descriptoion was good and I would not have thought they could get twisted to be honest.<br>

    I have got a message back from the seller who will meet me and discuss this anyway...so fingers crossed. Mind you once you notice the twist its difficult to imagine how it was missed in the first place...so the seller may conclude it was never like this and blame me.<br>

    Thanks for all the other suggestions everybody...a look on fleabay shows plenty of backs floating around.</p>

    Is this an easy repair? (Sinar back separation)

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Thanks for your replies. Unfortunately this is not what I wanted to see. I have taken the frame from the standard as per Peters instructions and put in on a glass surface (flat) that showed one side is not properly straight. I also flipped the frame 180 and re-attached it to the same side. Rather than the gap following the frame it remained in the same position..this was an early indication the back itself was also problem. I released the back as Charles instructed and placed that on the glass surface. The corner where the gap resides is a good 3mm clear of the glass. So I have a slighty bent frame and a decidedly bent back.

     

     

     

    I am on state benefit and I can't see me being able to afford to get this fixed by Sinar.

    I got this camera to make a new start in life with the hope I could sell a print or two a week and support myself with the time I have left. What do you suggest Charles? In the mean time I have requested I return the camera to the seller.

    Is this an easy repair? (Sinar back separation)

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Hi and thanks for your replies.<br>

    Just to be sure...this gap is not between the GG frame and the rear standard.<br>

    Here I have taken the GG off. The 'frame' that is not fitting flush to the rear standard is uppermost on the rear standard in this shot</p>

    <p><img src="http://i41.tinypic.com/5wvvqb.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p>You can make the frame out better from the side...here it is on top of the rear standard. It is between these two that there is a gap.</p>

    <p><img src="http://i42.tinypic.com/2vuwnk9.jpg" alt="" /><br>

    The defect is between the rear standard and the 'frame' you see attached directly to it.</p>

    <p>The sliding latches either side are to hold a film back on but do they have a second use as a release for this frame to be correctly re-seated? Would this incorrect seating have caused damage? <br>

    I don't like to push/pull/turn anything I do not understand and so am having a stand off!</p>

     

    Is this an easy repair? (Sinar back separation)

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Hi I have recently bought a used Sinar and upon closer inspection I have seen part of the rear standard frame is separating by a couple of mm. I'm unfamiliar with describing the individual parts so here is:</p>

    <p>a comp from a video: the back is held so the gap is nonexistent vs released to show the gap<br>

    <img src="http://i40.tinypic.com/xonwur.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p>And here is a link to the video which is much better in describing the fault (74Mb from a fast server once the 30 second timer is done) <a href="http://www.megaupload.com/?d=MJ8V0H77">http://www.megaupload.com/?d=MJ8V0H77</a> The video starts with a view of the back as it should be before going to the defective area. </p>

    <p>All in all this means the GGS is:<br>

    not held square to the rear standard frame;<br>

    is not 'fixed' in position;<br>

    will no doubt will be exherting a twisting pressure (you have to squeeze quite hard to close the gap) on the remaining points of contact.</p>

    <p>Further my aim is to do close-up work, in all likelihood closer than 1:1 where focus is absolutely critical.</p>

    <p>I got the camera from a private individual who did not describe this fault. I am wondering what to do about it. Is this a repair that I could carry out myself with basic small screwdrivers etc? Or is this a 'known' problem which bodes for further separations? Is a self repair to be avoided...say for instance there are tensioned parts that would spring out leaving me at sea as to where they originated?</p>

    <p> </p>

    HELP--shot in sRGB

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>Alexander to show an example to the forum is really easy. Just go to one of the many imagehosting sites (tinypic.com, imageshack.us) click "browse" find the image "open" then "upload"...really simple. Then try the codes out (the site will work out a variety of codes for different uses and list them for you just to copy and paste...yes everything is done for you!) on here with the preview to see which code is right.<br>

    Jobs a good 'un.<br>

    A picture is worth 1000 words.</p>

    Will CS4 run OK on my 3 1/2 yr old laptop

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <h3>Here are the current Min Sys requirements. Guessin you are on a PC.</h3>

    <h4 >Windows</h4>

     

    <ul>

    <li>1.8GHz or faster processor </li>

    <li>Microsoft® Windows® XP with Service Pack 2 (Service Pack 3 recommended) or Windows Vista® Home Premium, Business, Ultimate, or Enterprise with Service Pack 1 (certified for 32-bit Windows XP and 32-bit and 64-bit Windows Vista) </li>

    <li>512MB of RAM (1GB recommended) </li>

    <li>1GB of available hard-disk space for installation; additional free space required during installation (cannot install on flash-based storage devices) </li>

    <li>1,024x768 display (1,280x800 recommended) with 16-bit video card </li>

    <li>Some GPU-accelerated features require graphics support for Shader Model 3.0 and OpenGL 2.0 </li>

    <li>DVD-ROM drive </li>

    <li>QuickTime 7.2 software required for multimedia features </li>

    <li>Broadband Internet connection required for online services* </li>

    </ul>

     

    <p>If you are really sincere I would sign up to Adobe and take their trial of CS4. PC's being what they are...that's the only way you would really find out (you may find you can do x,y,and z with the soft but not ,a,b or c )</p>

    A budget Medium format scanner?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>Hi BM,<br>

    I am as interested in this thread as you (also looking for similar kit) but afaicsee your last post needs some input on the price front as on calumets site the 4490 <a href="http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/item/666-110Y/">http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/item/666-110Y/</a> and the 8800F <a href="http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/item/321-840D/">http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/item/321-840D/</a> are pretty evenly priced at £157 and £137 respecively.</p>

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