robovet

Here are some pics from early November in Equador with some tmax;tri

x; and HIE IR--

 

marc<div></div>

Mitch,

 

I like your picture showing the clouds behind the flyer. I'm not sure but I think I shot mine pretty open (f2 ?). Maybe a smaller f-stop would have brought more of the background in focus. I'm still waiting for my B&W and infrared to be developed.

Mitch,

 

It was the new 50 summilux ASPH. But screw the "bokeh" just look at those blue boobie feet !!

This one was with a 20d and housing- 35 foot whale shark at depth 80 feet Darwin Island. Do they make housings for leicas ?

 

marc<div></div>

Here's a Blue Footed Boobie --- more to come

 

marc<div></div>

I had an m7 that I purchased in jan that went through batteries very quickly. I sent it back for passport warranty work. Evidently there was a problem with the circuitry causing a constant battery drain. They replaced appropriate parts and it works fine now. Not sure if you have the same problem.

 

Marc

You may want to consider looking at the Noblex 135u. It has 135 degrees and a better lens for less money. It's not as convenient to use.

50 asph M7 red 25.

Ronald,

 

I'd like to try your advice. Can you explain a little more about the focus instructions " Focus point is 5.6 on the right side of the DOF scale " I didn't quite follow. I'm using an M7. Thanks---

Here's another--

I've only shot a few rolls but here's what I've learned so far. I rate the film at 250. Use a red filter, either 25, 87, or 92. Start with a wide lens, 28 or 35 so you can zone focus. In bright sun start with f8 @ 125 and bracket from there. At f8 you can set your focus from 5.5 feet to infinity, giving you a wide buffer for the inaccuracy of infrared focusing. When shooting people try a yellow or orange filter so you don't get those dark sockets for eyes. Load the film in a dark closet or bathroom. If you send it to the lab make sure it doesn't sit in the hot sun. Trial and error ---

Thanks for all the responses, I'll try some Ilford pan f and efke 25. Colin, I rated the film at 25, and I had to give the cotax 645 and lenses back 'cause my wife nixed the deal --- it was either that or endure an extended period of abstinence !!

Here's another--

I tried some techpan last week and I liked how smooth the prints

came out. Most of my limited experience has been with tri-x (much

more grain). However, the techpan is expensive to develop -- I send

it to a lab. Anyone have other suggestions for a similar look ? I

was thinking of trying fuji acros.

Flossing---

New foal born after I induced labor.

In front of King kamehameha hotel kona hawaii.

I've had tons of bags over the years. Crumpler bags are perfect for leica m size cameras. Try the "company embarassment "

http://www.crumplerbags.com/cartIndex.php?prodId=91&prodType=Bag&catId=22#

 

marc

I've been using a 20 year old kodak carousel (4600) to view slides

from my Leica M's. The projected images are quite inferior to

viewing them with a loupe on my lightbox. Considering the expense of

the M's and lenses, are the pradovit leica projectors worth looking

into ? Thanks for any advice--

 

marc

Marc--

 

I have learned from your posts and admired your style. This influenced my descision to add leica rangefinders to my arsenal. They are a joy to use and will probably only be sold by my wife if i croak. Although I have to work harder and wait longer for a keeper image compared to my DSLR's, for some reason i reach for them first if i can slow down. Since you have been a cyberspace mentor, I'm just curious if you still use film rangefinders in your personal or professional photography ?

 

Cheers

"Oh not her again"

In the right hand column there is a category "Flash". Look through the threads containing info on the Metz 54. That is the only flash with HSS for the M7. The best thing to do after reading the basics, go outside with your favorite film under varying conditions, shoot and take notes --

 

Good Luck !!

I'm not sure about the M6TTL however I use the SF20 with my M7. I put it on TTL, dial in the same aperture as my lens. Let's say your shooting action on the dancefloor and the room has an incident reading of F1.4/ 1/30. Using asa 400 I shoot f 5.6 and 1/15-1/60 with the flash dialed down - 1 1/3. This allows enough depth of field to range focus and still have some ambient light balance due to dragging the shutter. If you use a cord and bounce the flash I would dial up the output. I also suggest getting the SFil www.leicagoodies.com which works great on the SF20. The Sfil allows me to shoot flash up close without a bracket or cord (to bounce). Not as useful outdoors due to the limited flash sync speed.

Father and son---

Facial pralysis