John J. Genna

I attempted to upload an image three times today; after "uploading" it took me to the details window and even after tapping the "save and continue" button the photo is not displayed at the top of my portfolio. Also, as I scroll down on the gallery page only the top 3 or 4 sets show and then it stops populating. As problematic as things were with this site's modification even these were not issues as recently as 2 months ago..... The old site may have looked antiquated but at least everything worked. Any chances of re-activating it? Nothing but problems with this new one....

<p>I own a Hoya Skylight. It doesn't say 1A or 1B on the case or ring, just skylight (the case is green). If anyone's familiar with this piece, do you know if it has any UV blocking properties at all? And what's the difference between a 1A skylight, a 1B skylight and a UV filter? </p>

<p> I have some old Kodak Gold negatives that I'm currently scanning to make digital files (Epson V500). One set is from the late '80s the other from the late '90s. My goal is to match each image to the original prints which are still in good condition. To accomplish that I’m doing what I usually have to do which is darken, add lots of contrast and subtract lots of blue from the highlights (in Photoshop Elements 4). The rest is fine tuning. But peculiarly I'm having more trouble with the images taken outdoors in cloudy weather. Whatever color I add to the image to compensate adds a strong cast to the sky which should be white. Even adding to shadows only still affects the highlights. The scan from the 26 year old negative was almost completely missing red in the mids and shadows. Adding red there made the sky a strong magenta-orange and rendered the image completely useless; I gave up and retrieved that photo from the print. The scan from the 17 year old negative needed to be made warmer but removing blue from the mids and shadows rendered the sky a horrible yellow. I then re-previewed it with the Epson and tried playing around with the Epson’s editing features (for the first time ever) before re-scanning. I adjusted the levels by pulling zones 7, 6 & 5 way down closer to zone 0, separating high mids and mids from the white sky. I also subtracted blue and added red and scanned and got an image that was much, much easier to work with and achieved a clean, white sky.<br> <br> I by no means consider myself an editing expert I’ve just learned to get what I want after years of trial and error. However after dealing with this I have so many questions about what happened and why and I’m hoping you can help me with them they are:<br> <br> 1. Is it normal for 17–26 year old Kodak Gold film to lose red or any other color even when it’s stored @ room temperature & low humidity?<br> <br> 2. Both images were shot w/a Rokkor 55mm f/1.8 lens from the early ‘60s. Does the glass in a lens that age have any kind of built-in UV filter or layer? Could the sky’s discoloration be due to the film capturing UV light?<br> <br> 3. I was much more successful tuning the image to the original print w/the built-in Epson software. Is it better then Photoshop Elements 4 or can I achieve the same results with both?</p>

<p>Hello all;<br> I have some full rolls of Fujicolor negs from the mid 80s and am trying to identify exactly what films they are for some databases I keep. From reasearch done I've figured a few things out but still have a few questions. I'm wondering if anyone here can help me with some pretty precise info. Here's what I know & don't know:</p> <p>I have negs that date from 1985-86, all of them say "FUJI" & "HR400" @ top, so that's clear.<br> Sometime in late 1986 Fuji released Super HR film.<br> I have 6 full rolls from 1987. These only say "FUJI" & "400". But out of the 6, 2 have a green stripe across the bottom. According to this database: <br> https://www.hamrick.com/vuescan/html/vuesc24.htm <br> the green stripe is the ID mark of Super HR.</p> <p>So my questions are 1) Did Fuji discontinue HR film when Super HR was released, or were they both available for a time? and 2) Is the green stripe the indicator of Super HR or the absence of the "HR" on the negative?<br> Thanks so much for any help you could give cheers!<br> </p>

<p>Hello all;<br> I just bought some expired (obviously) rolls of Polaroid's Polablue 35mm film. Back in the day it was used to make presentation transparencies by converting white to blue and dark colors/black to white, which is why it was called a "blue & white" film. Each roll comes with a small box of its own developer which gets inserted into a proprietary processor putting out the finished product. My question here is how should I store both the film & developer once I get them? Both in the freezer? Or the film in the freezer & developer in the fridge or room temperature? The film expired in 2001 & has an insanely slow ISO of 4.</p>

<p>Standard kitchen freezer temps will do you fine....I've shot slide film stored frozen, 17-19 years past expiration date with perfect results and the same with colr neg film 8-11 years past. Just put your supply in the freezer asap especially if it's already expired.</p>