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dan_brown14

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Posts posted by dan_brown14

  1. I've just conducted extensive personal research into the same question you ask.

     

    Olympus C-7070. $379.

     

    Outstanding camera to shoot with and the images are fantastic!

     

    My other camera system is Nikon AF with D100 and N90s. I've shot extensively with Leica

    M and Mamiya 7 as well.

  2. I got a C-7070 about a week ago to compliment my Nikon D100 kit. I did take the time to

    go through the manual and try all the feature of the 7070. I also used to shoot Leica M

    stuff, etc. I am totally blown away by the 7070! It takes a fine picture, and handling is

    very good, and it's pretty quick to shoot if you get it set up to you liking. Very easy to keep

    handy all the time. I seriously don't see myself shooting the Nikon a whole lot anymore,

    except when I need f1.4 or really long glass, or really shallow DoF.

     

    Get a 7070 and enjoy!

  3. I recently sold my recently CLA'd F3HP with 50/1.4AIS Nikkor on ebay and got squat for it!

    Dang! The only thing that made me feel better was that I could get a sweet little Oly C

    -7070 for 'squat' to compliment by D100 outfit. That made me feel lots better ;-)

     

    Sell it, and be done with it. Life is short.

  4. I just bought an Olympus C-7070 that is within your budget. I did a bunch of research

    before making my selection. 24-hours later I have now been through the manual and shot

    the thing quite a bit. I am totally impressed, very versatile camera that takes fine pictures.

    It is rather advanced, but also has "Program" mode that does point and shoot very well.

     

    I recommend you look at it.

     

    PS, avoid Kodak.

  5. You'll do fine, keep practicing.

     

    On the focus alignment, just imagine two parallel planes, one is the film plane the other is

    a plane the point of focus is in. When you recompose, keep the two planes parallel and

    you'll stay in focus. Therefore, you most move the camera laterally, not rotate it, to shift

    focus points. Remember that most all Leica lenses exhibit very minimal curvature of field.

     

    Good luck.

  6. Please excuse this somewhat OT post. Are any of the current crop of vest pocket digi-

    cams worthy street shooters? Such as quick to turn on and shoot the first frame, short lag

    time. fast lenses, ability to turn off the auto-flash, turn off the TFT display with optical

    view finder, etc.?

     

    Thanks...

  7. I've decided to get an LTM camera, and I'm pretty well set on a IIIf, maybe a IIIc. So I'm

    looking around and Ritzcam.com, KEH.com, Tamarkin, etc. But what am I looking for? A

    good finder mirror, a recent CLA, a good shutter? What do I ask the seller on the phone?

    How the heck do a find a good user? Should I just plan on doing a CLA on whatever I find?

     

    Thanks for your advice, and

     

    anybody got a nice user they're looking to sell at a fair price? Oh yeah, what is a fair price,

    BTW?

  8. I'm back shooting Delta 400 with an old Nikon after some time in the digital world. I miss

    my M6TTL, and I'm kinda-sorta, thinking about getting another Leica.

     

    What is an M6 classic going to cost these days, and where are the best deals? The prices

    look like they went up at the big dealer sites.

     

    Or, just talk me out of it ;^)

  9. I second what Greg S said about the MF v. AF issue with a D70. I sold a 300/2.8 MF

    Tokina to finance my 300/4AF. I'm really glad I did because my percentage of in-focus

    shot went up manifold, so di dmy shooting enjoyment. MF'ing on a D70, even a relatively

    fast lens like an f2.8, is a pain in the best of conditions.

  10. Brandi; I haven't read the other responses, but my experience is that you MUST get into

    reading the historgram and tweaking the exposure a bit with a digital camera. A lot will

    depend on the contrast of the scene, but the NIkon meter is strongly biased to not blow

    the highlights. This is good, because the apparent underexposure can be corrected fairly

    easily in post production. The blown highlights cannot. If what you want is good looking

    pics in JPEG format right out of the camera, then start looking at the histogram and then

    add some under/under compensation to get the historgram over to the right side without

    any clipping. I suggest you add a bit of warmth with the auto wight balance adjustment

    too.

     

    Good luck.

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