robert gordon

<p>Moad Entrada is an excellent choice in matt surface while Kardan FB glossy is superb--as evidenced by the fact that Lenswork has come out with portfolios of prints using this paper.  When printed on the Epson R2400 with the warm tone selection the prints look VERY much like Ilford Warmtone silver halide prints.  Just choose the Premium Lustre setting in your printer when using the Kardan glossy paper.</p>

What viewfinder magnification does your M6 have? If it's the 0.72 I'd vote for a 50mm lens. I have the current 50mm Summicron but am tempted to buy the new 50mm Summarit simply because of the focusing tab. In all likelihood I'll stick with my Summicron since I use my 35mm for something on the order of 90% of my Leica shooting.

 

Take another 1000 pictures and then make your decision.

 

Good luck.

In both CS3 and Lightroom and the Epson printers if you want to print some down and dirty b/w images just go to Page Setup, select Best Photo, then select Advanced, and finally select your toning prefererence (I favor Warm). You will get VERY good quality prints without having to convert the file to greyscale.

I recently finished scanning about 75 b/w negs on 120 film that I shot between 1980 and 1980 with a Rollie TLR. I used an Epson V750 scanner that I purchased specifically for this projects. Scans were fast, clean, well-exposed, and sharp enough to make 12x12 inch exhibtion quality prints. At the same time I can get comparable results from my Nikon d300.

I used the Polaroid SprintScan 4000 for several years before going to mostly digital capture. However, I had some 25 year old 120 negs that I wanted to scan so purchased an Epson V750. Performance exceeds my (demanding) expecations. Device comes with SilverFast.

I've been shooting Leica M cameras since 1970 and as much as I love the gear I just do not think the Leica "glow" is apparent in anything other than silve prints on fiber paper. It sure is not apparent in 72 DPI web images.

"I use whatever I see famous photographers using, that way I know I will be able to take some good photos."

 

But only if you also use the same film or CF cards, the same shoes, and the same toothpaste.

I'd love it if my Nikon D 300 had a tripod-f/11 setting that would set the ISO to 100, the aperture to f/11, the exposure mode to aperture priority, the focus to hyperfocal for whatever lens I'm using (usually a 20mm) and bracketing on with bracketing set to three exposures at one stop intervals.

Leica already partners with Panasonic to produce to Lumix. Not a bad camera but the video viewfinder is not conducive to street photography. The Vario lens is fine, but how about integrating the Leica M viewfinder and the current Tri-Elmar--making the camera manual focus?

I've been using my Leica M2 since 1970 and it's still going strong. Have handled an M* several times but won't be buying a digital M until the shutter noise is greatly reduced. One way to reduce the cost of a Leica M is to eliminate the LCD. Shoot only RAW, add auto ISO and most Leica shooters would be good to go. Controls could/should all be analog. If you really need to see your images before uploading them to your computer, you could use a pocket size hard drive with a 3-4 inch LCD. When travelling, I often shoot 4-6 rolls of film a day, process them when I get home, make contacts several weeks later, make enlargement weeks or months later, and exhibit the prints 6-12 months later. Tell me why I need to chimp every frame or even every hour.

If there ever is a new Leica M film camera, I sure hope they enable date stamping between negative frames--the way my Contax RX did circa 1994.

The Epson Exhibition paper has a wonderful surface that is indistinguishable from Ilford Multigrade glossy. Pretty heavy stock. Expensive at $60 for 25 sheets of 8.5 x 11 inch but IF you want to emulate silver prints this paper is an excellent choice. With Epson printers you need to use Photo Black ink and set the profile to Epson Premium Lustre. The technical types say the D-Max is off the charts. All I know is that the prints glow.

OK, with a bit of experimenting I think I've found the solution. In the camera set the Playback/Rotate Tall menu to ON. Then, in the Setup set Menu/Auto image rotation to ON.

I've run into the same problem with Lightroom for Windows as well as the Bridge that comes with PS CS3. The problem perists with both NEF and JPG files. My D 200 automatically rotated my vertical images with the software mentioned so I think the problem IS with the camera.

Thanks. You're right. With a 35 mm lens, you have to get really close to the action, which what I don't have the guts for as for yet.... . Would a 50 mm lens have been a better choice? MAYBE, BUT SO WOULD MOVING YOUR FEET.

If you don't have a darkroom (or access to one) and don't love printing in the darkroom, get the M8. If you get the M8 be sure to complement it with a printer that does a superb job with b/w prints (I use the Epson R2400 with Epson Lustre paper and the printer set to sepia toning).

 

Good shooting, printing, and exhibiting.

I have the 12526 hood that came with the 35mm asph summicron when I bought it new. I like the fact that it slips over the front ring so there is no vignetting when using filters. However, I recently noticed that there is a crack on the front edge of this plastic hood. I'll try glue since I'd rather not shell out $60 for a replacement.

Were the images with both the M7 and M7 shot with a 35mm lens?

Neil,

 

My friend from India who directed my attention to your site got his tip from a friend from Indonesia who got her tip from a friend in Turkey.

Neil,

 

Wondeful concept and great images. I envy your ready access to a large city. A friend from India directed me to your site. I'll let others know.

 

Keep shooting and posting. A real treat.

 

Bob

I've done street shooting in Paris in 1997, 1999, 2002, 2004, and 2005. Only problem I ever had was in 2005 when I was "inside the ropes" without press credentials during the Armistice Day. The official just asked me to leave. Some photos from 2005 can be viewed at http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=575653

 

Best wishes.

I had Nikon service my D-100 for this problem. Now, my card reader recognizes my D-100 as a D-70. Anyone know what kind of firmware upgrade might have been done?

 

Thank you.

I've used this lens on a Contax RX. Excellent image quality and build.

 

Classic Camera sells the lens for most SLR mounts: http://www.classiccameraexchange.com/48893.html

 

Don't know how the lens would work with a DSLR.

I have owned the Epson 1280 and 2200. For a short time (less than three months), Piezogrpahy worked well with the 1280 and then I started to experience nozzle problems--as did many others.

 

I never invested in the RIP technology for the 2200 so my b/w images were of poor quality compared to silver prints (I've been printing in the wet darkroom since 1966).

 

I bought the r2400 after seeing b/w images a friend produced. I use the built-in sepia option for all my b/w images and am now almost ready to abandon my darkroom. I'll still continue to shoot some film, but most of my images in the future will be digital.

I find that with the Epson 2200 I prefer setting the RGB sliders in Photoshop 6.0 to 50/-10/-75. This gives a very pleasing sepia tone.

 

After almost 40 years in the darkroom and experimenting with Piezography the only digital b/w prints with which I am satisfied are those that are at least slightly sepia toned.