david_sargent

I second Mendel's suggestion - chronologically and keep some kind of database. In the database - could be as simple as an Excel spreadsheet - have Volume, Page (assuming you keep them in pages in a notebook), Date, Category, Film Type and Speed, Comments (in this field you could put "Uncle Bob's 50th birthday," or "trip to Mesa Verde," or whatever else you think you might want to use to help find a particular negative), and you may want other fields for stuff like f/stop, shutter speed, developer, etc.

Why not shoot Neopan 400 at 1000?<div></div>

Look for a used mount on www.astromart.com. You should be able to get something like a CG-5 or an Orion Skyview Pro or similar mount within your price range.

 

Another thing you might try is stacking multiple short exposures.<div></div>

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I like the Jupiter 9. I have been using it on a Rebel G.<div></div>

Mamiya MSX 1000 or DSX 1000.

You will have to stop down meter for all lenses except Mamiya SX lenses.

Both models have needle meters. The MSX has spot metering; the DSX can be switched from spot to average metering. 1/60 sync speed. The only thing I don't like is there is no split image focusing. I bought my MSX 1000 for $20.

Oops. I was going to attach the picture of the frame it was on and the adjacent frame. Something went wrong though.

You just never know until you get it developed. Here is a picture of the frame it was on. I opened it up in my kithcen, It's either Fuji Neopan 1600 or Neopan 400 shot and developed for 1600. It was the last shot on the roll. The frame next to it was fogged too, but not as bad.

- You need a tank and reels. I use a Patterson plastic tank that holds two reels.

 

- You don't need a "darkroom," but you either need a room that can be made dark so you can load the film on the reels and put them in the tank, or you need a changing bag. After the loaded reels are in the tank, you can do the rest in daylight. I load my reels in a dark bathroom. I put a towel on the floor so no light comes in under the door.

 

- You need chemicals. That includes developer (I use HC-110), stop bath, and fixer. I suppose you could get by without stop bath, but it's cheap, and shortens your time. You MUST use fixer. I also use photo-flo for my last wash of the negatives.

 

- You need something to measure the chemicals and something to put the mixtures in. I use liquid chemicals, and I use a 10mL syringe to measure them. I put the mixed chemicals into water bottles that I have marked measurements on the side of. I have markings for 280mL and 590mL for the bottle I mix the developer in. I throw the used developer out when I am done.

 

- You need some sort of chart that tells you how much chemicals to mix with the water and what time to use for developing.

 

- You need a thermometer so you can keep the chemical mixes at the proper temperature.

 

- You need some clothespins and a non-dusty place to hang the negatives to dry.

 

- You need scissors to cut the negatives.

 

- You need someplace to store the negatives. I use pages that I slip the negatives into, and I keep them in a notebook.

 

- You need a timer. I do my developing in the kitchen, so I just use the timer on the microwave oven.<div></div>

keh.com

I've never tried Diafine, but just for reference, here is a picture using Fuji Neopan 1600 shot at 2500 and developed in HC110 dilution E for 10 minutes at 75F.

I have used the following lenses on a Rebel G. Pentax Super Takumar 50 f/1.4, Jupiter9 85mm f/2, Mamiya/Sekor 35mm f/2.8, Accura 28mm f/2.8, Mamiya/Sekor SX 135mm f/2.8.

 

All of them focus fine to infinity. I have no problems with mirror interference.

 

When you say the lens must be used manually, you need to know that that is true in two senses. First, it is manual focus. Second, the aperture blades must operate manually. All the lenses I listed above, except for the 135mm have a manual/automatic switch on them (which is not auto/manual focus. It is auto/manual aperture blades closing down), which I set to manual mode. The 135mm is only automatic, which means that I can only use it with the aperture fully open.

 

Usually I focus with the aperture fully open, and then I stop down to the desired aperture and meter and shoot. I usually use aperture priority. As stated in a previous answer, only aperture priority and manual are usable.

You are getting more than 3 times the number of pixels as you would from 35mm at the same scanning resolution (assuming 6x6 format). So, you should expect it to take longer. Do you need to scan at 3200 dpi? At that resolution, you could make a print of 24 x 24 inches @ 300dpi (again assuming 6x6cm format). When I scan I usually pick a target size of 10 x 10 and then crop and/or resize to print on 8x10 paper. That is a scan resolution of roughly 1300 dpi. I haven't timed my scans, but it only takes a few minutes on my epson 3170.

 

By the way, the first time I tried to scan I really didn't know what I was doing, and I selected a target size of 10x10 and a resolution of 3200dpi. My computer locked up. After an hour or so I rebooted. If it had worked, I'd have a picture with about 1 gigapixels.

I have had generally good experiences on ebay. I bought a Yashica C for $31, and it works perfectly. I bought a Mamiya MSX1000 with lens for $22, and it worked perfectly, except for a light leak. So, I bought a kit for $6 off of ebay and fixed that problem. I bought a Jupiter 9 lens that is in very good condition -- no scratches or fungus -- and it works well. I have bought several lenses, and only had a problem with one lens. It is a 200mm Mamiya SX lens that has had one pin filed down, so I have to use stop down metering instead of open aperture metering. That is my only disappointment on ebay. It was described in excellent condition, and other than that one pin, it is in excellent condition. I should have asked about the pin. I probably would have been given an honest answer. Anyway, I like the lens, but I paid more for it than I would have had I known about the problem.

 

If you do buy on ebay, be sure and ask questions. Ask if the lenses have any scratches or fungus. Ask if the shutter speeds are okay at all settings. Ask if the self timer works. Ask if the aperture blades stick. Ask if the film advance works. Ask if there are any light leaks in the bellows (for folders). Etc.

I would like to echo your thanks. I am indebted to the wealth of knowledge within this web site. I just developed my second roll tonight. Fuji Neopan 400 shot at 1600 and developed in HC110 dilution E for 13 minutes at 75 degrees. Here is a scan of one frame. It's from my daughter's basketball game.

 

I'm looking forward to seeing your results.

On my computer, I can just go into Explorer and select the files that I want to print. Then I right click and select "Print" from the drop-down menu. Then the Photo Printing Wizard starts, and I can tell it to print the pictures as full page, 5x7, contact sheet, etc. It's very easy to do.

 

I think this is part of Windows XP.

Since you already have a cable release, what you need is a cable release adapter for cameras with external threads. Here is a link: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=89916&is=REG

I've not bought from kassiapeya. I have bought from kubanoid, and got a nice Jupiter 9 lens. Everything went smoothly, and I would be inclined to buy from him again.

Oops! That didn't work. Don't know why. It is 60kB and 480 pixels wide.

David, Your width is okay. It is the file size that is too big. Try saving as a jpg with more compression. Here it is compressed to about 60kB.

Why not just take a picture and scan the picture?

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The date is in perfect focus. Nice.