gusi

Hello.

I've cleaned little spots simply removing them from the sensor with a bent hair taped to the end of a roller paper sheet.

Yesterday I did my first "wet-cleaning" with PEC-PADS, Eclipse Solution and Sensor Swabs.

The procedure is very simple and is explained en many places in the net. I did first a test over a DVD disc surface to get the time the solution takes to evaporate (almost instantly) and the number of drops it needs ( 3 in my case ) You know... too many fluid and it could get inside your camera touching the "actual" sensor, not the filter.

Afer this, I replaced the tip of the Sensor Swab with a Pec-Pad, and did the procedure. After the 2 pass ( 2 sides of the Sensor Swab ) the majority of the dust specs was gone. After the fourth I decided it was clean enought.

I tested it shooting a white sheet of paper under a intense light to test the procedure and, today in the morning I photographed the blue sky (no cluds) to se my almost-perfect-shit-off-procedure.

It's not hard to do. The principal tool you need is patience, a clean and well iluminated place (my sofa did it for me) and nice music.

Hello.

I use "PC INSPECTOR SMART RECOVERY"

It's free and you can download it in several places in the net (GOOGLE for it)

It has always worked fine and easy for me.

Please look in Internet for a software called PCINSPECTOR SMART RECOVERY. ( WWW.CONVAR.DE )

It's FREE and has recovered some three cards unreadable by my cameras or PC's and, when I say recovered I mean that ALL PICTURES was recovered.

Give it a try.

It depends on the hygienic habits of the user... ( Kidding again )

Of course, your hair can be greasy but indirectly. You know that the grease came from the skin ( "gl�ndulas sudor�paras", in spanish ) and sticks in the hair, but the hair does not generate oil nor have internal flow like shampoo vendors show in their publicity.

More of this, you have only to touch very lightly the dust speck.

I've anticipated that my method is only for a few dust specs, not for a general cleaning.

Of course, I suppose you could use a fibre taken from a cosmetic brush bent in the same way and stucked to a rolled sheet of paper. Natural fibres are of animal hair and should (I hope) not damage your sensor.

As a final reminder: Use at your own risk. I worked Ok for me and I will do it again when necessary.

Hello.

The reason for not using head hair is because I have very long hair but it's very thin. I prefer stronger hair as you can find in several places of your body.

Another reason is that I had no more alternatives at that time.

Does this answer you question?

Well, I suppose that unless the spot is some liquid, greasy, ... it has to be some kind of dust stuck by static electricity to the filter. In this case, it is very easy to "drive" it to the border of the filter out of the sensor area.

In my case, afer a first attempt exercing very little pressure with the hair, the spec dissapeard, possibly by getting stuck to the hair.

The idea is to make the same process recommended with the "sensor swabs" and the like but with a folded hair. Is some particle is really stuck to the sensor the hair will not take it and you will have to use more "agressive" methods.

Many thanks about your interest.

PS: If you have seen the "tool" I used the you can also follow the idea.

Hello.

I've just notices a dust spot on the pictures taken by my Nikon D50.

Well, you know... LOCK MIRROR - TAKE OFF LENS - LOOK SENSOR and...

Oh, a dust spot sitting over my sensor (actually over the filter...)

My FAST, EASY and NON RISKY solution:

1 - Take a strong hair (Pubic hair in my case. Sorry about not being

polite)

2 - Make a buckle with it (something like a very tall "U")

3 - Roll a sheet of paper to make a "magic wand"

4 - Stick the horns of the "hairy U" to the "magic wand"

5 - Recover the dust particle with the hair.

The idea is that the hair is not hard nor abrasive enought to scratch

the sensor. It worked very fine for me.

It is not a new method. In Galicia (spain) stone workers used the

same method when they got stone particles into his eyes.

Of course, if you want some pictures of the process I can take and

publish it (except the pubic hair removal step)

Hope this could be of help to some of you.

Gusi Domarco<div></div>

Hello.

I can find it in Spain only in a little shop and only ISO 400 so...

I made it myself with adhesive aluminium foil and adhesive tave over it. It's veary easy to resemble the needed portions of metal to make the correct code.

Other thing I do is to "refurbish" color film canisters removing the paint and putting adhesive tape in the needed places.

Many thanks about your suggestion.

I'll try the slow development (22 minutes) and also a test with some less-important roll.

Hello.

I have to develop some rolls of Agfa APX 400 and the only developers I

have at the moment are RODINAL and KODAK T-MAX.

It are of some concerts in Lorient ( French Bretagne ) and of monuments.

I'm looking for the finest grain possible but cann't wait for Rodinal

special, Studional or the like.

Any indications with the given products.

Many thanks in advance.

Gusi Domarco

Hello

I've just received as a present an old enlarger and a piece of

equipment with several markings I cann't locate information about.

The piece is black, metallic and measuring approx 13x14 cm. with a

sliding bar protruding in the top (the bar mover left and right )

Follow a simple drawing of the thing:

( top to bottom )

-----------------------------------------------------------

8302-1

S. 3025 PAT.656052

=====================================

Here goes a window with engraved

(film) measures in a semi-transparent

glass.

Also a receptacle probably to hold

non exposed film or paper with a tab

that can be pulled out

========================================

MADE IN ITALY

Urnov

DURST S.A. BOLZANO - BOZEN

------------------------------------------------------------

Could you give me information about this equipment or some indication

about where get it?

Many thanks in advance.