bieg
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Posts posted by bieg
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<p>You will never have an older woman complain that you retouched her in Photoshop.</p>
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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3638618-lg.jpg" alt="" width="683" height="1024" /></p>
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<p>It is a menu pick accessed on the rear display. </p>
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<p>Canon 5D or 5DII</p>
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You need to select the correct paper profile in the photoshop print request box.
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<p>Go into the disc utility and repair your permissions.</p>
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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/13384473-md.jpg" alt="" width="907" height="1173" /></p>
<p>Using FXHome PhotoKey 4 Pro.</p>
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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9232017-md.jpg" alt="" width="979" height="652" /><br>
5D MKII and 400 2.8 IS</p>
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Just so you know you DON'T have to import the photos into Aperture. You can select the option to leave the files in
place and Aperture will just reference them while keeping them where they are.
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You are using a Mac so just go to your home pictures folder and create folders to your hearts content. Make one for
each year of photos you have and drag and drop your photos into them. When you are in Bridge just click on
whatever folder you wish to view and preview them.
You don't need any program to store your pictures in, just store them in logically named folders on your hard drive and
navigate to them in Bridge.
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Bridge will display the Raw file as it comes from your camera. Double click on the preview and it will open in the
excellent ACR. Do all your Raw manipulation and then ACR will open the file in CS5. Do the rest of your post
processing in CS5 and save it wherever you like as any type of file you like. I favor uncompressed TIFF. Bridge is
very flexible for sorting through your images and shuffelling your images around.
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I agree with John, Bridge and ACR and into CS5.
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<p>Documents and iTunes files are not in the system folder, they are in the documents folder. I would not worry about spreadsheet and word processing files, leave them be in the documents folder. Store your iTunes library on a separate disc and yes that is just a drag and drop. You will have to tell iTunes where the library is next time you open it. I would also store all of your picture files on an alternate disc. I also suggest having another drive to use as your time machine back-up disc. Have it sized large enough to cover both your start-up disc and your files disc.</p>
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<p>I have CS5 on my main drive on my Mac Pro. The important thing is to set up your "Scratch Disc" on a separate drive. This can be set in preferences. The scratch disc acts as virtual RAM when working on large files. I may be wrong but I don't like trying to run complicated applications such as CS5 anywhere but the main drive. </p>
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<p>While you are in the folder go up to the menu bar and select "View", "Arrange By", Date Created. If you are going by the sub folders names you need to name them so the year shows first such as "Pictures 100828" instead of "Pictures 082810"</p>
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<p>You can't go wrong with Alien Bees, great product, great company, great service. With furry creatures you might want to use a silver umbrella to bring out the detail in the fur. The Alien Bees modifiers are very reasonable so you will be able to afford to experiment. Try a shoot through umbrella also as it is almost like a poor mans soft box that is easy to transport and store. I agree the 800s are a good choice.</p>
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<p>24-105 and a 70-200 should cover you for most anything. </p>
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VueScan works great with the nikon coolscan V on Mac 10.6
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<blockquote>
<p>The D30 may be a great idea... or maybe I should upgrade my D60 to something along the lines of a 40D and donate the D60 to the school.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There you go,...everybody wins! Stick a "Nifty Fifty" on it and they have a great DSLR to learn photography with.</p>
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<p>Try to find a clean old Canon D30 (not the later 30D). The D30 was the first "affordable" DSLR and they are dirt cheap these days. They only have 3 mega pixels but I have had 2 Calendar shots published (S-2000 Club Of America Calendar 2009 & 2010) with one of these and it will be great for your students to learn on. Kids want instant gratification and film will not do that, digital does. The D30 is a high quality DSLR that can be had for next to nothing and will be great to learn on. If I still had mine I would have donated it to the cause but I sold it to a good friend who wanted to get into digital SLRs inexpensively.<br>
Good luck!</p>
<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/2823326-md.jpg" alt="" width="1173" height="846" /><br>
<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/2825781-md.jpg" alt="" width="1173" height="846" /></p>
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<p>I don't believe the 2X extender works well enough on any of the zooms. It works fairly well on the supper telephotos such as the 300 and 400 2.8. <br>
That being said 300 f4L IS works excellent with the 1.4 extender giving you a 420 also and that is what I would recommend for the original poster. The 300 also has a nice Macro mode which is quite handy. <br>
300 f4L IS and the 1.4 extender. I use this combination on my 5D MkII and I find it to be a versatile combination with excellent quality. </p>
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<p>Good choice, let us know how you like it.</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>I have the 300 f4 IS and it is one of my favorite lenses. It is tack sharp, takes the 1.4 convertor well and it also has pretty decent Macro abilities as a side benefit.</p>
Help with photographing older woman in boudoir and nude.
in Portraits & Fashion
Posted
<p>You can get a good idea about how a woman views herself by the way she dresses. If she dresses like a younger woman that is how she views herself. Just like a guy with a bad comb-over sees himself as Favio with flowing locks. My strategy is to show the wrinkles but make them less defined. Create a layer in photoshop where you have removed the wrinkles almost entirely and then dial back the transparency until they reappear and she looks younger but still natural. </p>
<p>Then deny you used Photoshop at all and just say it is good technique, makeup and lighting. >G> <br>
Always let her maintain her illusions.</p>