thanz
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Posts posted by thanz
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Drove from Ketchikan Alaska, through British Columbia, through the US to Texas in 10 days...whew!
<center><img src="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/Ketchikan_docks.jpg"></center>
British Columbia bog
<center><img src="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/british_columbia.jpg"></center>
Fishing dock in AK.
<center><img src="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/boat_II.jpg"></center>
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I did the same thing and used D76 1:1 for 8 min. They scan great, here are a couple samples:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=50627&ppuser=489
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=50568&ppuser=489
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=50628&ppuser=489
camera used was a Leica M6 and 35/2 asph. summicron.
good luck!
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thanks all!
I also tend to reduce times for tray developing sheet film beacause I use constant agitation, it's kinda hard to invert the trays without making a little mess ;)
Todd
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thanks, I looked to the MDC first...nothing for sheet film.
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anyone have a good starting dev. time for Acros sheet film in Rodinal, the film was rated 100 and I use
trays for developing.
I like Rodinal with Acros in 120 and woud like to try it with 4x5.
thanks!
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anyone have a good starting dev. time for Acros sheet film in Rodinal, the film was rated 100 and I use
trays for developing.
I like Rodinal with Acros in 120 and woud like to try it with 4x5.
thanks!
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I like the balance of my M6 with 40/2 rokkor attatched, also my M3 with 50 coll. summicron
has a nice feel to it as well. I guess I like a more compact combination, I had a 50/1.4 (2nd
version) once and I thought it was a tad front heavy on my M3, great lens though!
Todd
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Honestly,
most of Cosina's lenses are really great, you'd be hard pressed to find someone that could
tell the difference between a print made with a 75mm summicron and a 75mm Heliar, or a
35mm summilux and the 35/1.2 Nokton at similar settings, and so on. Sure there are
trade offs when comparing a 2200 dollar lens to a 300 dollar lens, sometimes paint,
sometimes build quality and size are the issue, you have to decide if they are worth the
price difference for yourself.
Some Leica lenses are legendary and have no equal competitior in the VC lineup, but alot
are very similar in real world performance. Don't forget about the new Zeiss "m" mount
lenses, they appear to be another viable alternative to Leica glass.
It all comes down to the fact that most of this gear is capable of taking better pictures
than we are, good luck!
Todd
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Rolleiflexes are great cameras, fun to use, here is a link to the manual for a Rolleiflex 3.5F,
they are pretty much all the same.
http://www.matthes.com/Rollei/Manuals/TLR_F/Coll-c.htm#Shortcut
good luck,
Todd
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This developer is fast becoming a favorite, here is one shot on Ilford Pan F 120, EI 50,
incident meter (luna pro) developed in 510 Pyro 1:100 for 6.5 min at 70F. 30 sec. initial
agitation and then three quick inversion every 30 sec. after.
link: http://apeture.my-expressions.com/archives/915_1879239132/159177
Todd
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How did I come up with 1:200 for 9 min? The times were similar to what I use for D-76 1:1
so I gave it a go, I'm going to try 1:100 with your posted times this weekend and see.
thanks,
Todd
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Sorry for the jumbled post, the site is acting weird, here are he links to the images:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=37063&limit=recent
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=37064&limit=recent
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O.K.,
first let me say thanks to Jay for the tips and times, and for recommending this developer.
a couple of notes:
When I mixed the dry chemicals into the TEA I was suprised at the consistancy, very thick,
but when heated it becomes a bit more managable. When heating in the microwave please
note that the TEA becomes hot pretty fast, at 30 sec I was at 168F.
The powdered chemicals didn't seem to want to completley dissolve but when cooled to
room temperature the mixture was clear.
Here are a couple from a roll I had waiting to develop, this is not fine art by any means nor
meant to be scientific, just my results from the first roll. The film is 35mm Fuji Acros 100,
rated
at 100 and developed in 510 Pyro 1:200, at 70F for 9 min. The 1:200 dillution seems to
give a very slight grain penalty
(these were scanned on a Minolta Scan Dual IV)
(they won't let me post images here for some odd reason)
Links:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/
springer_III.jpg
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/
springer_II.jpg
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thanks guys!
Todd
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I ordered the chemicals for "510 pyro" developer and was wondering if someone with experience with it
could recommend some starting times for Fuji Acros, Tri-X 400 or APX 100. I plan on doing my own
testing but I would like to start in the ballpark. Also does this developer give close to box speed or should
I adjust?
thanks for any help,
Todd
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the "lower view point" is what I think makes these images different from the normal
perpective of SLR's and rangefinders for street work. TLR's are great tools for the street
and as your images show us, the quality is superb for a 50 year old camera. Here are a
couple from a Rolleiflex 2.8 E2, APX 100 all at f5.6
<center><img src="http://my-expressions.com/up_media/1108/pblog/
6682/1149998647.jpg"></center>
<center><img src="http://my-expressions.com/up_media/1108/pblog/
6682/1149993570.jpg"></center>
<center><img src="http://my-expressions.com/up_media/1108/pblog/
6682/1149991644.jpg"></center>
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thanks.
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Bob,
great color work, I read your DMR post and was wondering if Jerry at precision camera does
CLA's? I need some work on a lens, I am in Houston but get to Austin about once a month or
so. It would be great to get it done in state.
Todd
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Just out of curiosity, why did he "choose" to become homeless, and what's up with the cup?
Todd
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Looks like a good way to use an otherwise unuseable classic! What did you use for the spacers on the take up spool?
Todd
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I am wanting to try some a pyro developer for 35mm and 120, I develop using a
patterson developing tank (super sytem 4), I have read that some pyro formulas
led to uneven developing in tanks so my question is which formula is best for
tank development(rollo pyro, pyrocatHD, etc.)?
thanks,
Todd
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{W/NW}: Portraits
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
<center><img src="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/1_4_trumpet.jpg"></center>
<center><img src="http://my-expressions.com/up_media/1108/pblog/6682/1168666278.jpg"></center>