ed_yuen

<p>If you're getting one of these lens, treasure it. I can't attest to all that has been stated by other members of this forum, but I my experience with it is that it is a great workhorse lens. I still shoot film, and have used it alot for mostly family photos and such with a bit of scenic and wildlife stuff (okay critters in and around the yard). the separate focus and zoom functions can be annoying to some but given that it will not lose its focus when zooming in and out is a definite plus. <br>

Now, what am I trying to get at? A while back I managed to pick up two of these lenses in barely operating condition, one with a badly scratched front element and another which had a stiff, poorly functioning zoom. By swapping the latter's front element out and replacing it into the first I got an intact lens that worked. No aberations, no fuzziness in the corners or anything else that would indicate that the lens was in less than satisfactory condition. <br>

Now, maybe I got lucky but it shows me that the lens in question is a well engineered and manufactured piece of optics. I have since given that lens to a cousin of mine who was getting into photography and he has yet to say anything bad about it. I still have three of them, one of which is a spare should something 'bad' happen to the other two. </p>

<p>Hello Asim: <br>

I still use the MZ-S and still shoot only film. Truth is I can't justify nor afford upgrading to digital at this point. I love my MZ-S and it has replaced my Super Program (Super A) as my main unit. I was able to both of mine second hand, and have no regrets beyond the fact that getting the small bits (hotshoe cover, PC cover, etc) is becoming harder and harder. But all things considered I enjoy the use of the camera and the added battery grip helps considerably, both in holding it as well as the extended battery life. <br>

One of the cameras came with the original sheet for the programming, though I think your idea of the smaller sheet fixed to be back a good idea. FYI, I believe that several of the functions remain set with the camera even after the batteries are removed, and the ones that require resetting will become more familiar as you do them over. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hello Scott: <br>

First, I love the work, you captured a wonderful series of images. I also love the wonderful work that was done for the ceremonial wear. <br>

Based on what little I know and the style I'm guessing that you were on the West coast and it's either Haida or Salish, but I'm no expert. I found the 'Hummingbird' particularly cute and something that I've never seen before. <br>

Can you clarify which region/Nation you were photographing for those of us who aren't in the know? Thanks. <br>

Ed</p>

<p>Another site: http://stans-photography.info/<br>

includes reviews of some of the lenses as well. I think it has most of the ones produced by Pentax, if you're looking for aftermarket ones then I wouldn't know where to start. <br>

Best of luck. <br>

Ed</p>

Duane:

As a fellow Canadian I feel your loss, perhaps not as personally but I feel it nonetheless. Your photos give him a depth that is often missing when we see these 'obits' in the news. Perhaps, one day you and others who have lost loved ones over in Afghanistan will get together and do up a decent tribute to these men & women in the form of pictures and print, if only to show that those who gave up their lives were more than just faces in uniforms, that they were real people,with real hopes and dreams, and with people who really cared for and loved them.

My condolences to the family and friends.

Ed

Hello Leo:

If MLU is a must, then the two I'm inclined to recommend is the LX and the MZ-S. To be fair, I've never used the

LX, but own the MZ-S. I haven't had enough time to practice with it, and accessories are hard to get (such as

the battery grip BG-10, TS-110 timer and CS-105/130 remote release cables) and the MLU is a setting on the

camera. When set up properly, it will have a two second delay after locking up the mirror before firing. I

don't know how the LX does it.

I don't know which items you're looking at on line, if it's Ebay there are some occasional deals to be had, but

the ones usually listed are (I suspect) NOS that some sellers are trying to move on behalf of others, given what

I've seen as their asking price. That's where I got my MZ-S's.

The LX is still an in-demand camera, from what I've seen of the listings in Ebay. Good ones go for a premium and

if it's half the camera it's made out to be (remember I don't own one, yet) then a unit in very good/excellent

shape is usually worth the purchase (but again it's buyer beware).

As someone previously recommended, go to Pentax's US website and download the manuals for the cameras read them

through. That should help you decide which one is most suited for your needs.

I do have a concern about the lens you plan to use it with; I don't know if the DA series of lenses are going to

give you the image you want on a film SLR image. I'd check into that before you make that purchase of a film SLR.

Regards.

Ed

Hello:

I'm going to take a shot in the dark and say that it's their developing machine, but not being there in person it would be hard to say. Since most of the machinery uses some sort of roller transport system to move the film through the various chemical baths I going to say that one or more of the transport rollers has either been damaged or has something caught/wrapped around somewhere. Are these marks occurring throughout the entire roll of film, randomly along the negs or at the beginning or end? Is it consistent in the same position along the entire length of the negs?

Regardless, I'd have a few words with your developer and have them check their machine for damage or loose parts inside their machine. I wouldn't be surprised if there was something caught in the works.

Ed

Now that I've seen your new acquisition, and heard how you've done with the overall deal, I'd say that you scored a sweet deal. I can't even find a battery grip right now for the ones I've got. So, if you ever decide to part with it, LET ME KNOW!!!! ;)

Seriously, I think you're going to enjoy it. I've used mine with a manual zoom and am happy with the results. It even works with my AF 400T flash with the TTL settings and 'Red Eye' reduction.

Have fun!

Ed

Hello:

The short answer is 'Yes', it's a great camera. I just purchased a couple the past few months for a decent price.

But as a couple of posters have indicated, check for fungus on the lens, check the battery compartment for

corrosion/leakage. The camera uses two (2) lithium CR2 batteries; if you're seriously interested and can justify

buying a couple fresh batteries and take them to use on the camera. I'd also check that the pop-up flash is

working, and actually will pop up, apparently the spring can fail occasionally.

Best idea is to go to the Pentax site and download their copy of the manual and read it through, print it off and

take it with you to test the camera out. There's a lot that is in that little machine but as far as I've

experienced it has proven itself to be a real winner. And if the shop is hesitant to allow you to test it out to

your satisfaction then I'd consider walking away. Better to hold onto your money then pick up a '$500.00 paper

weight'.

Best of luck.

Ed

Congratulations! It's good to hear that you got what you need to go forward with your program. I hope that all the units you acquire all work out and that you have enough lenses to go around (sounds like you probably do, from the units you're going to be replacing).

Best wishes to you and your students.

Ed

Hi Gina:

As stated by previous posters, there would appear to be no one who manufactures film cameras at this time (yes, I'm still a film user) and it would appear that your options for 'new' equipment is limited to whatever used stuff that still might be available. However, you could try contacting some of the companies and larger internet retailers to see if they might still have 'Old Stock' available. Or convince the people at the top of the situation and have them allow you to purchase 'used' equipment.

I think it's great that you are teaching film photography, I'm not going to get into that 'discussion' about which is better; it's a matter of personal taste. I currently am loaning an old Pentax SuperProgram, TTL flash & lens to a cousin of mine who is going to be learning film in class. I think it's great that they still teach it, if only to be able to demonstrate how all that 'old' technology translates into the new digital age. How else will they undertand what an 'f stop' or aperture works, or how a light meter is used, or even what film speed really means?

Yes, digital is easy and quick, very suited to today's 'instant' gratification society (I want it, YESTERDAY!), film can slow things down a bit, to help teach composition, posing and depth of field. I've looked at a lot of pictures posted here and I've seen a lot of excellent work, but how many duds were made before that one ideal one was posted? Today, we have 'Photoshop' (and other software) to tweak images, Maybe a little time in a darkroom can help someone appreciate how much more difficult it was, using your own mind, a light-tight box, lens and filters to create a lasting image.

I do wish you luck on this venture, and I hope you success in the program. Maybe keep us in the loop and let us know how it all turns out, regardless. I for one am on the sideline cheering you on!

Ed

Hello:

For a nice working zoom lens you could try finding a 35-105mm f4.0. It's considered by some as Pentax's

workhorse lens. I use it with my SuperProgram as my 'walking' around lens. And unless someone is willing to

tell me otherwise this lens' quality is good enough that I was able to ''Frankenstein" a working lens from two

damaged ones. The film images I got back were as good as anything I could produce with other lenses of the same

make in my collection.

But the other ones, like the 85mm/f1.8 and 135mm/f1.8, good luck and hope you have deep pockets. And from what

little research I've done the 135mm /f2.8 isn't one of their better ones. According to one source it tends to be

a bit hazy when opened up.

Best of luck.

Ed

Hi again:

Thanks for the responses so far. As for what I'm trying to do, I'm trying to capture images throughout the

ceremony and then afterwards at the reception. Pictures are to be in colour, hence the indicated film speeds. I

might do some in B&W but depends on situation. I will be using a flash throughout (unless minister forbids it

during the ceremony) and if the weather holds the family will want to get outdoor photos. The Church itself is

limited in space for outdoor shots so I suspect family group shots will be held elsewhere.

As for Portra 800, I'm not familiar with that film. Past experience with high speed film is mixed at best, too

grainy for my liking, bu to be fair that was with Kodak's ISO 1000. And yes, I have no desire to annoy the

official photographer, she's the groom's aunt and a very good one from what little I've seen. I intend to speak

with her to make sure that I don't get in the way of her work. And yes, from past experience the multitude of

flashes from various P&S cameras is very annoying.

I've never 'pushed' film before so I don't want to start experimenting at a wedding. But I should start learning.

Regardless, all of your opinions/advice is appreciated.

Hello everyone:

First, I'd like to say a big 'Thanks' to all of you posters out there, your questions and responses make for

great info and entertainment. It's great to go to a site where people are able to 'agree to disagree' on the

varied subjects in the field of photography. And I get to learn something along the way, if only that I've got a

lot more to learn.

Anyways, My main question is this: I'm planning on taking pictures at a family wedding (no, I'm not the official

photographer, just an amateur) and am using a Pentax SLR. My choices of film are either Fuji ISO 200 or Fuji ISO

400. Which would be the better film? The Church is somewhat dimly lit but that's only based on one visit. It

has beautiful glass on the windows and is very tall inside (tall enough to have a set of 'naves' on either side

of the altar).

My selection of lenses are a 35-105mm-f3.5 SMC-A, 300mm-f/4 SMC-A*, 28mm-f2.8 SMC-A. I also have a 2x Pentax

doubler and I'm using a dedicated Pentax flash with my SLR.

So, your opinions/suggestions would be appreciated.

And Thank you all again.

Hi Yvon:

So, you're from Quebec. Me, I'm from Calgary, AB. Are you planning to head back for the 400th Anniversary celebrations for Quebec City? You probably can get some great shots of the celebrations.

BTW, I responded to your queries about the solar panel project a while back. How is that going? Working well I hope.

Best regards.

Ed

Removing the guard isn't a problem, I want to replace it with an intact one. I had the guard from another lens which I got the lever from but it's significantly different from the macro lens one rendering it unusable. The guard on the macro ring is essentially the same as the macro lens.

I could theoretically use the lens without the guard but I prefer to have it as a precaution.

Hello everyone:

I'm facing a bit of a dilemma for some repair work. I acquired a Pentax SMC-A

100mm Dental Macro lens a while back. The glass is great, but it appears that

some previous owner 'modified' it to fit another camera (possibly a Canon).

Both the lever that the 'A' setting uses to set the aperture and the guard along

side of it were cut off. Now, after some hands on research and observations I

feel that I can replace the the guard piece by sacrificing one of three macro

rings (also Pentax) for the required part. The lever I've gotten from a lens

that suffered some sort of water damage.

Now the real question; which ring should I use (or sacrifice)? Given that once

the part is removed the lever will most likely still work but will not have the

protection of the guard, and any chance of selling it drops off considerably.

Which of the three rings would most people use the least often? The most?

I already have two other complete Auto Extension Tube sets but am trying to

minimize the 'damage' to the remaining set in the hopes of maybe selling it

later. Regardless, any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Ha,... Ha,... Ha.....

FK-U indeed, you're as nasty as you as evil. ;)

Seriously, thanks for the 'Heart Attack' on April Fools day, and thanks for the laugh.....

And apologies if this offends anyone, humour doesn't translate very well over the internet at times.....

Ed

Well Ken, I'm glad you're happy with your purchase. Do keep those of use who haven't used in the loop as to it's performance.

It's good to have this sort of feedback from users of the gear.

Whoops, apologies for any misunderstanding. I was also trying to be 'humourous' when I recommended against the ductape.

But you're welcome.

Hello again Ken:

If you have the original manual, on page 192 of the K100D manual (pg 193 of the K100D Super) under'For Viewfinder' it lists the Refconverter A as an option. If you don't have the manual it's available from the Pentax US site under their 'Customer Care' tab, then manuals, then search from there.

Regardless, the Refconverter A and M are right angle viewers, both come with the ability of 1x and 2x view magnification. They both have the 'grooves' needed to fit onto the viewfinder on the cameras. I can't speak for any other aftermarket R.A. viewers. And no, I wouldn't recommend ductape..... ;)

Both the above mentioned viewers come up periodically on Ebay, but be sure of what you're bidding on, the older models simply won't work. Apparently the Refconverter A is still available at B&H on special order but as pointed out by the original poster, it's pricey. And the only difference between the 'A' & 'M' models is the size of the plate through which you view through, the former has a larger window to see the LCD in the SuperProgram film camera, the 'M' doesn't but still works the same otherwise.

If you're still looking for info, again go to the Pentax US site, and look up the 'Refconverter, Refconverter II,Refconverter M' PDF manual. They're not great copies but they're good enough to get the point across.

Ed

In response to Ken Oakes, double check in your manual first. I had a look at the K10D manual and it states that the Refconverter A fits over the viewer (and by default, so should the Refconverter M), but check the manual of the K100D under the 'Optional Accessories' section. The one you're probably refering to is the original Refconverter and/or Refconverter II, which fit the earlier film cameras like the K series and such.

If in doubt, contact Pentax USA via their website and ask them for more info.

Ed

I'm not that familiar with the K10D so I'm going out on a limb here. I'm assuming that you were looking at the Refconverter A? If so, then the earlier model 'M' can still fit. You might get lucky and find one listed through Ebay, but if you're interested in getting an OEM piece of equipment I do have one that I'd be willing to part with.

Now, if I'm violating some rules about posting 'sales' through this link I apologize. Otherwise contact me and we can discuss this, if you're interested, I can fill you in with any details and if you want you can find a PDF manual on Pentax's website that will also describe the Refconverter 'M's operation as well.

Best of luck regardless in finding the one you want.

Ed

Hello:

Try this site for more info:

http://www.aohc.it/batte.htm

They provide a possible replacement for those mercury batteries and supplier. Have a look at the site and see if you want to give it a try.

Best of luck.

Ed