ed_yuen

Actually you can. Each silicon diode will have a drop of about 0.5-1.0 volts across it so if you have more than one in series you will add to the voltage drop on the line. So keep that in mind. The diode acts much like a one way valve that is voltage activated, so with each added diode in series you will have an according drop in the voltage.

Regardless, have someone qualified have a look, if only to have the piece of mind that everything is working properly.

Yvon:

I'm going to recommend that you get someone with a good electrical background to go over your system. As I pointed out I'm not an engineer just a technologist. And it's kind of hard to diagnose over the net something that can potentially burn your house down if it's not done right. But I will say that having both your wind power in parallel with the solar presents a problem. When your panels are not collecting any power generated by the wind mill can flow back into them. You'll have to have blocking diodes in the system to prevent the power backing up into either the panels and generator. Same is said with the solar panels, if they aren't already built in the panels will require blocking diodes to prevent the power from on panel 'draining' into the other(s) when some of them are blocked or faulty in some way. Again, this should be covered in the instructions if you have them.

As for your batteries, you can hook several in parallel but again have someone with the experience and background help you out. Cabling is very important, get the correct gauge. Theoretically, heat, space and cabling are the main limitations, again I'd have an qualified electrician go over your system. He's more likely to see to any potential problems and catch them before they have the chance to bite you....

Again best of luck.

Ed

Hi Yvon:

Good to see that you're using a non-spill batteries, I was going to suggest them to you. There is still the issue of the battery off gassing but if you have adequate ventilation you should be fine, just be more aware of the potential flammable hazard. Batteries are usually rated with an 'Amp-hour' rating, that will give you an idea of the capacity of the battery (ex. 92 Amp-hr means that the battery can theoretically put out 92 amps of current inside an hour, after which the battery is drained). If you have a way of calculating your draw on your system you can figure out how well it will hold up.

I would also suggest either having a battery spill kit on hand, though the batteries won't spill, they can occasionally generate excess pressure in one of more of the cells (usually overcharging or defect) and acid will spill out either through the vents. You can cobble a kit together; I'd recommend a set of splash goggles, a couple of pairs of latex or nitrile gloves, and either regular baking soda and litmus strips or a commercial dry acid neutralizer w/indicator. A spill won't happen too often but I've been working with them for over five years and of the hundred plus units I've handled at least four have vented acid. There are some good sites for more info including MSDS sheets on the batteries, get some from your supplier or the website of the manufacturer and read them. Powersonic is the brand I'm familiar with and they have some good info:

http://www.power-sonic.com/index.php

Keep in mind the live span of the batteries, average is usually about five years with steady use. I'm going to assume that you have access to AC power; pick up a properly rated charger for your batteries. Charge them up first before plugging them into your solar system. If the battery(s) drop low, use the charger to top them up again if your solar recharge system is unable to keep up. It sounds like the AC charger is defeating the purpose of the solar panel but it will help keep your system operating longer by keeping your batteries in optimum operating service. Keep the batteries at a constant temperature if possible; performance is affected by temperature.

I noticed that you plan to use an alternator to generate electricity, do you have a way to properly rectify the power before it gets to the regulator? You might want to check into that if you haven't already. That could save you a lot of grief and money.

Last thing, in case you're wondering; I'm an Electronic Engineering Technologist graduate in Calgary, AB. I currently work in the field on environmental monitoring and have the fun of setting up equipment and power systems for our remote monitoring stations. Nothing spectacular but it pays the bills.

Ed

Hi:

Nice to see some people trying to go 'Green'. My first question is how good is your background with electrical systems? I don't wish to come across as patronizing.

I noticed that you're placing your panels inside your home. I don't know what kind of window glass you're have nor the type/brand of solar panel but the panels are usually placed outside without any sort of barrier between the panel and the sun. Otherwise there can be a definite drop in performance.

Another note, where are you storing your batteries while they're charging? As you're using deep cycle marine batteries there is the issue of the sulfuric acid electrolyte and the off gassing of hydrogen gas; both are potentially dangerous, the former being very corrosive and the latter highly flammable. I'm hoping you're not storing these inside your home or have taken precautions.

You also mentioned the voltages measured, both are probably correct but one is the panel without a working 'load' the other value is with it hooked up and charging your system. What you should also be measuring is the DC current value. I don't know if you have the specifications of the panels but from my experience there is usually specs one the back or with the instructions. If you don't know how to safely do so get someone with an electrical background to show you how to measure the 'Short Circuit' current value of the panel when it's exposed to the sun. This value will tell you how well your panel is working. Take this value and multiply it with the DC voltage and you get the wattage, and if you're panel is working properly and the sun is out without any cover your calculated value should be close the listed rating. [DC Volt * DC Current = Watts]

I hope your setup works well for you. Do let us know as well if your wind system works out for you. Your location sounds good for wind power. Best of luck.

Ed

You all have a great New Year as well. Hopefully the expected announcement from Pentax will make all of us Pentax users a happy lot.

And for those of you who celebrate the Chinese (Lunar) New Year, 'see' you all again on February 7th, 2008.

Best wishes.

Ed

I believe that the lens in question uses a 49 mm filter, therefore will require a 49 mm lens cap. You call it a 50 mm 1:1.7, can you provide more info? It should have on the front of the lens the make and model; usually it will say something like 'Pentax SMC-'A' or 'M' or nothing, then the F number of the lens and sometimes the serial number.

It sounds like you don't have a UV filter on the front, preferences aside, that would be the dead giveaway as to the size of the required lens cap. And a generic one will work just fine, unless you're a collector. Ebay (or EvilBay) can have them, a warning on buying that way, it can get costly when you take into account shipping costs.

Ed

I'd stick to what is recommended in the manual. I recall an email I sent to Pentax for more info concerning some of the older electronic flashes on their new digital cameras and there are compatibility problems. I'd recommend going to the Pentax USA site and contacting them for more info. Something about the electrical signals of the flashes not being compatible with newer digital cameras if you intend to use the TTL settings.

http://www.pentaximaging.com

Better to get the word straight from Pentax before running the risk of damaging your camera.

Ed

You can try the following site:

http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/

The site is as extensive as one can get outside of Pentax. Otherwise try contacting Pentax's US website, it'll take a couple of days but they're usually good about responding, even if they can't answer your question.

Hello:

First, lose (recycle) the Ni-Cads. The low Amp-hour ratings compared to the newer Nimhs available just isn't worth the hassle and problems you're going to run into. Invest in a good set of Nimhs and a proper charger. Do some research as there can be quality control issues depending on where some of these are manufactured.

Second, there are Lithium cells available. These can be found but mail order for these are strictly ground delivery. Also, again you can't just dispose of these in the garbage (or you shouldn't). Advantage for these are that they do have a good shelf life as well as service life. EverReady makes AA and AAA, I can't say what other sizes they produce beyond the 'button' batteries. Last thing, Lithium cells are more expensive so take that into account.

Hope this helps.

Ed

Hi:

You may have to send it into an authorized Pentax dealer, but my guess is that the light sensing photo diode is burnt out or damaged. Did you drop or shock the unit before this failure? It could be that the connection might be damaged and the device itself is okay. But don't quote me, I don't have the training or schematics for the unit.

Go to the Pentax US site and locate a dealer that way. It's your best bet.

Hope that this helps. Good luck.

Ed

I noticed that you've gotten some good answers, I too have a Pentax Super Program (three bodies and many lenses). The doubler is the best bet, but hard to come by though Ebay has them occasionally. There are two models that should work with your lenses, Rear Converter 1.4x-S and a 2x-S. The 'L' models are for their long telephotos. I don't know about other brands as 99% of my gear is Pentax. You can try checking out Pentax's website for manuals to explain the gear better or go to:

http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/

http://stans-photography.com/

These two sites go into Pentax gear (Stan's is more about the lenses but still good).

I'm not sure about using a Motor Drive A (or any drive motor) if you're shooting birds, the drives tend to be very noisy and probably scare away your subjects after the first advance. You may have to 'fire' it off (without film) initally for a few days until they get used to the noise. Of course it really depends on how close you are to the subjects. Another 'remote' device is the Pentax Remote A which is a 5 m cord that attaches to the shutter release; the problem here is that you still have to advance the frame manually. The last item, if you can find it, is the Infrared Remote control set. Very rare piece of gear but gives you range without a cord to hang up on.

I hope this helps.

Ed