tim_kong

<p>Hi, I have been offered a mint condition 1D mkIII at a very good price and am thinking of getting it. However, I am not very familiar with any of the 1 series cameras, never used them before. All I know is that there has been a lot of complaints and issues with the AF tracking capabilities of the 1D mk III. But I figure that it cannot be bad in all areas of focusing and there must be somewhere that that AF works flawlessly. I don't shoot sports so no issue there. I intend to use it, if I ended up buying, primarily for street and portraiture and maybe some wildlife, birds mostly. BTW, I am currently using a 5D mkII. All comments are welcome, thank you.<br>

Tim</p>

<p>Well Allard,<br>

FYI, I just sold that worthless piece of garbage for $680 to a nice gentleman who is too willing to pay for it. It may be worthless in the US, but in Malaysia where I reside, the 40D is still worth at least half the weight of gold. Thanks Minute Photos for showing the pics, I like the idea that the picture from a 5DMk2 can be agressively crop and still have enough resolution. Another plus to make my decision closer to reality. </p>

<p>Thanks guys for all your responses and opinions. I respect those of you who opine that keeping the 2 crop bodies would be better that switching to a FF camera as shooting situation demands it. It is really convenient to have 2 bodies if you are shooting weddings or other events that requires wide and closeup shots at the same time. However, I am leaning towards FF now as I am shifting my interest to shooting still life, food and architectural, so lens change is not a problem. I rarely shoot sports or action photography, so frame rate is not an issue. If there is a big difference in IQ and ISO performance between the 5DMk2 vs the 40D/50D, then I will definite make the switch. Anyway, thanks for all the great responses/opinions. BTW, I already have the 17-40/4 and 24/105/4 lens, which I heard is great pairing for the 5D.</p>

<p>Hi<br>

I'm toying with the idea of disposing my 2 crop body cameras, 50D and 40D, for a 5DMk2. I know the decision is mine to make but I just want some opinions as to what you think is better option. I am a hobbyist, taking pictures practically for my own viewing. I know its nice to have 2 bodies, one fitted with a WA lens and the other with a mid-telezoom and the convenience of not having to change lens when you need to shoot wide to closeup. However, such shooting is only occassional for me, mostly at cultural events or street photography. BTW, all my lens are EF type with the exception of the EFS10-22mm. My question is would any of you trade the convenience of having 2 bodies over a FF camera like the 5DMk2. <br>

Thanks<br>

Tim </p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I was just wondering if I were to calibrate my lens with the in camera lens calibration software from a 50D, will the calibrated lens works with another digital body, say a 40D? Or the calibration software is only acurate on the camera that you calibrated with. Appreciate any advice before I start fiddling with it.<br>

Tim</p>

<p>I believe the grip that you saw on Ken's review is a wifi attachment, not a dedicated battery grip. The wifi attachment also doubles as a grip in this case but can only take in 1 battery, if I am not wrong, as opposed to 2 for the battery grip. </p>

<p>Looks like the answer is unanimous, then 5D it shall be. Thanks guys for the prompt advise.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

Just can't decide to choose between a used, mint condition 5D and a new 50D, both about the same

price. I am mainly using the camera for street, portraiture, landscape and food photography. I already

have a 40D for sports and wildlife photograhy but I am looking for a 2nd body, after I sold my 20D. My

criteria for this camera is IQ, low light ability and autofocus accuracy. I know that the

50D comes with a lot of new tech improvements but I want to know from the users who have used both these

cameras to give me their honest and unbiased opinion, considering my requirements. Thanks.<br>

Tim </p

Puppy Face, you are a saint! I just did a total reset and walla, what do you know, everything works like a gem! Thanks a million and you suggestion has just save me a trip to Canon Service and a fee for doing a total reset. Dino, if you are reading this, pls do the same, it might solve your problem! It did on mine! Thanks again guys for saving the day!

Thanks guys for the fast response but unfortunately, I have already tried all the above suggestions but nothing works. The meter reading is still stuck at -2 no matter what I do when the setting is on P, Tv and Av. Dino, looks like we are facing the facing the same problem here. It seems like the metering is not completely faulty since it works perfectly while in M mode. I hope someone from this forum will be able to give us a solution to overcome this problem.

Hi all,

 

Just found out that whenever I select Tv, Av and P mode on my 20D, the

metering is stuck at -2 on the scale as shown on the LCD as well as through

the viewfinder. It is stuck there no matter what I do and when I took a

picture, it is indeed under-exposed as indicated by the metering. However,

when I set it to M, it works ok. This is the first problem I encountered with

this camera since I bought it some 3 years back. I would like to know if

anyone of you have encounter such problem and suggest what I can do to rectify

this glitch. I just hope its nothing major that I need to send it back to

Canon for repair. Appreciate any help from you guys out there. Thank you.

 

Regards, Tim

I have a question about shooting water skiers from a moving boat, to be

precise, from the boat that is towing the skiers. Its my 1st time shooting

water skiing action and I noticed that I have a lot of mis-focus shots. The

reason being that I was on a moving boat during the shoot and its rater

difficult to keep the focus spot on the skiers. A slight bump and my focus

point is away from the subject. So my question is how can I shoot sharp pics

of skiers from a moving boat? BTW, I was using AI servo in my shots. Do you

think its a good idea to use manual focus instead of AI servo? Can I say

preset the focus manually at the desired distance and lock it? And what f-

stop is required to allow me sufficient DOF to keep the subject sharp? Hope

my question makes sense and any form of reply/advise is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

I own tbe F/4IS and loved it. But I shoot mostly outdoors with this lens. The IS on this lens is incredible and now I can get sharp pictures with speed of 1/30 sec handheld at 200mm. Both are excellent lens IMO and it boils down to what you plan to shoot. If you want to stop/freeze action, then F/2.8 is the way to go, otherwise, I would strongly recommend the F/4IS. If your budget allows it, then the F/2.8IS will give you the best of both world. Cheers.

Thanks guys for your valuable input. Looks like the 300/4 IS is the clear winner here, as far as hand holdability is concerned.

 

Kevin, I would love to rent these lens to try them out but unforntunately, renting equipment is unheard of where I live. I only have opinions from forum like this to rely on for my pre-purchasing decision. But so far, I have not been disappointed with the opinions from fellow photogs like yourself. Thank you very much.

Hi Guys,

 

Thank you all for the valuable advice. Looks like the zoom is out as far as my criteria is concerned. It now boils down to the 2 primes and its going to be a tough decision. At 400mm focal length, I am sure the 400 will outperform 300 with TC. However the lack of IS on the 400 is a real concern for me. I will be shooting mostly handheld with a 20D. Light might be an issue sometimes especially when I am under thick foliage shooting birds/animals. If I am shooting outdoor sports, I would get the 400/5.6 without a second thought. Real tough decision but its mine to made. Anyway, you guys have provided me with some pros and cons on these lens and I want to thank each and everyone of you. Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Hi all,

 

I am considering the above option for a longer focal length I currently have.

The longest lens in my arsenal is 200mm (70-200/4IS). I already have a 1.4xTC.

My consideration is IQ and sharpness. I have heard that the 300/4IS on its own

is super sharp and so is the 400/5.6. But what if I were to couple the 300

with the TC, would it be comparable to the 400 in IQ & sharpness? I know that

the 300 has IS advantage over the 400 but I will be using the TC most of the

time if I bought the 300. And would anyone consider the 100-400 IS over the 2

in terms of IQ and sharpness. This lens has IS as compared to the 400/5.6. The

400/4 DO IS and 400/2.8 IS lens is too expensive and heavy for me so thats out

of the question. I wish Canon would make an F4 IS non-DO version of the 400 so

more people can afford it and lightweight too. Well, any advise or opinions

are most appreciated.

I am using the non-IS version right now. Though I am happy with the performance of the lens in terms of speed and IQ, I also came up with a lot of "blurred" shots, most likely due to camera shake, when taken without tripod. I have not used any IS lens before so I just wanted to know how the lens IQ compare to the non-IS version. If its comparable, I would certainly get it. Thanks again for your helpful advise.

Wanted to know if this lens is worth the upgrade from the non-IS version. Can

someone let me know if the resolution and sharpness comparable, if not better

than the non-IS version? YOur honest opinion/comment is much appreciated.

Thanks.

If you are a ''newbie'' to photography, there won't be much difference between the 2 cam. In fact the 2 cams are pretty much the same except a bigger LCD for the 30D. Apart from that, I don't think you will miss the other extra features from the 30D. The 20D has more than enough features to last you a long time. Its better you spend the money saved from getting the 20D on a good lens to start with. Good quality lens will give you better image quity than newer model. camera

I used a 20D with 70-200/4 to shoot water skiing actions from a moving boat that pulled the skiers and the pictures turn out very sharp. If my f4 lens can do a great job, I don't see why the f2.8 can't.

Thank you guys for all your valuable comments. Point noted on the versatility of the IS version. I will be using the lens to shoot mostly indoor candids(weddings & birthdays) and my kid's stage performances, no sports though. I have a fairly low rate of good & sharp shots with my existing f4 version so I was thinking if a faster lens would provide me with better percentage of good shots. Tripod would be out of the question in these situations so I guess the IS version would be a better bet for me, right! Anyway, much appreciation for all your time to help me out. Thanks.

 

Tim

I know this is somewaht of a vintage question but I wanted some confirmation

on this before I make the purchase.I was offered a 70-200mm/2.8L zoom in mint

condition. I was just wondering how was it compared to the IS version in

sharpness. Is IS made a world of a difference between this two models since it

is already a pretty fast lens at f2.8. Please advise me if I should get this

lens or go for the IS version. I am currently using 70-200/4, which is tack

sharp but would like a faster lens for indoor shooting. Thanks for all

advise/comments.

 

Tim

I think it really depends on how often you are going to use the 50. If its only occasionally, I wouldn't spend the extra on the 1.4 USM but if its going to be your primary lense, then its worth considering.

That depends on how wide you want to go. If 28mm on a 35mm equivalent is wide enough for your needs, I would definitely go for the 17-40mm for its value, optic quality and full frame capability. Unless your needs are wider than 28mm equivalent, than you are left with the 10-22mm or some other 3rd party lens.

Christi,

 

I had the same equipment as you, except that I had the 20D, with the 17-40 being my main lens and the 70-200 for telephoto shoots. I just bought a Lowepro SlingShot 200AW and it fit my camera with 17-40 attached plus the 70-200, 50 1.8 and a flash plus other small acc nicely. The really good thing about this bag is that you can swing/pull the bag in front of you and unzip a top flap and you have your camera in your hands in seconds. It is very light and unconspicious plus it has an all weather wrap on to protect your equipment from rain. Its cheap too! But again, it really depends on how much gear you intend to carry at any one time. You can go the the Lowepro site to view their complete selection and better still visit some of the camera shops to check out other selections as well. Be sure to bring your gears to try out if a particular bag fits all of them in nicely. Have fun!

 

Tim