asimrazakhan

<p>hi everyone,<br>

i just tested a super slide on my Leica P300 with Colorplan lens. The corners are still cut off just like Ross' picture above. </p>

<p>thanks everyone! GK... thank you so much for the detailed answer. I actually noted everything down in anticipation of seeing the camera... but in the last minute the seller decided not to sell. </p>

<p>its okay with me... i think i'm more decided on a mamiya 7ii anyway. i think its the safer direction to go since its going to be newer and more easily repaired if need be. </p>

<p>thanks again</p>

<p>Is this the new Pentax 645 Digital? It could be coming out next month afterall...</p>

<div></div>

<p>yep... i just went to bulbman.com and searched 'ehj' and got this result... i hope its the right one..</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bulbman.com/index.php?main_page=product_bulb_info&products_id=14726">http://www.bulbman.com/index.php?main_page=product_bulb_info&products_id=14726</a></p>

<p>try bulbman.com</p>

<p>thats where i got my bulbs for a Leica Pradovit P150 and P300</p>

<p>I have experience with Velvia 50, Velvia 100 (not 100F), and Provia 100F. This is how I would describe the differences:</p>

<p>Velvia 50 is the most saturated. Skin tones are fine as long as you don't shoot in warm light. The second you use warm light (morning or dusk), skin tones become very red... especially with tanned or brown skin. Therefore its a great film to use for people in mid-day with overcast situations. If you use this film at any time of the day when there is strong direct light (not overcast), your shadows will become very dark. People shots with Velvia 50 in direct sunlight produce the racoon look.... shadows become black. Non-animate objects look great with this film anytime of the day... but you still have to be careful about the harshness of shadows. Another thing to note about this film producing very red skin tones is the location and time you are shooting. If there is a lot of pollution or if you are at very high altitudes and are shooting at dawn or dusk, this can pronounce the red effect so much that brown skin starts looking rusty brick red.</p>

<p>Velvia 100 is similar to Velvia 50 except that it is a bit warmer and handles harsh light better... though blacks are better in Velvia 50. Also, you will often notice that grey colors as well as dull colored objects (rocks, pavement, buildings) tend to have a magenta cast with this film. Reds are very pronounced. But all in all it seems to be like Velvia 50 with the use of an 81A warming filter. Skin tones are more natural with this film than with Velvia 50... even in warm light. This film falls between the qualities of Velvia 50 and Provia 100F. Its not too saturated and its not too cool.</p>

<p>Provia 100F often times produces results like that of Velvia 50 shot in overcast mid-day light. You will not have high saturation and in fact will often feel that the images are on the cool side. They may even look dull when compared to Velvia images. When shooting in mid-day overcast light you may even find your images to be too cool due to a hint of cyan... especially after your eyes have adjusted to the saturated colors of Velvia. This film is much more merciful in harsh lighting conditions and often produces great colors that are similar to the Velvias. Often times you will find bright colors from this film to look saturated while the dull colors remain dull... similar to Velvia 50 and not like Velvia 100 (it has an all-round warm tone). This pronounces the contrast and often times makes the image 'pop'. It makes it look like you shot on a clear day just after the rain cleaned up everything. When using Provia 100F, it's usually a good idea to place an 81A filter on your lens if shooting in mid-day light (overcast or not). This is the most natural of the three films.</p>

<p>I also shoot a lot of travel photography using these films. For traveling I can't settle on just one of these films for all situations... and usually carry all three. If I HAD to choose one, I would go with Velvia 100 for its faster speed, more latitude in harsh lighting conditions, and more acceptable skin tones (compared to Velvia 50). Also, for its all-round warm tones no matter how the lighting situation (compared to Provia 100F).</p>

<p>Keep in mind that Velvia 100 comes inbetween Velvia 50 and Provia 100F in most situations. But if you were to add Astia 100 to this list, then Provia 100F would be the middle-ground film. Astia produces truly natural/real colors... perfect for portraits and weddings. It's at the polar opposite of Velvia 50 and 100. Though a very natural film with great latitude, colors look dull when compared to any of the other films... especially the Velvias. This would not be my choice for travel photography. The other three would be great travel films.</p>

<p>Hope this helps.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>bulent,<br>

sorry.. the mz-5n doesn't have custom functions. i also had an mz5n and its a great camera. very light. i did notice that it tends to overexpose slide film. with print it doesn't matter much. it might have just been my camera. </p>

<p>Just wondering if anyone still uses the Pentax MZ-S. Its a great camera that has a lot of user programmable functions through the 'Pentax Functions' switch. The only problem is that its impossible to remember which number corresponds to which function....</p>

<p>so years ago, when I got my MZ-S, I typed up all the functions. It prints out in about a 1.5x1.5 inch area. You just cut it out and it fits perfectly on the back of the MZ-S. I've just stuck mine on with scotch tape. The only thing is that the printout covers the quartz date (QD) function on the back of the camera. But I don't know anyone that actually uses that.</p>

<p>If anyone is still interested, please either email me or respond to this thread... i'll email you an attachment of the pentax functions printout.</p>

<p>thanks</p>

<p>This weekend I will be meeting someone in Toronto that is selling a Mamiya 6 (not the 6MF) with a 50mm f/4. They have described the camera as flawless and not used very much. The seller seems honest. I have three questions:</p>

<p>1. What specifically should I look for to make sure that I'm getting a good body and lens? I will have a few minutes with the camera to make my decision. Unfortunately, I won't have time to shoot a roll and process it to see the results.</p>

<p>2. If the camera really is in excellent condition... how much should I be paying for the body and lens combined? </p>

<p>3. As a side question... if eventually I find that the camera develops some problems due to my own over-use, are there Mamiya 6 specialists that you would recommend?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>When I look at the 50mm f/4 lens for sale for the Mamiya 6, sometimes people call it a 'Mamiya G 50mm f/4' and others just call it a 'Mamiya 50mm f/4' (no 'G'). </p>

<p>Are there two different versions of this lens or are people just omitting the 'G' because it's not necessary since only one version was made?</p>

<p>thank you everyone for the answers. <br>

i actually want this compact medium format camera for the superslides as well as regular 120 format film that isn't cropped.</p>

<p>i've realized that a mamiya 6 will produce amazing sharpness and color that should be quite on par with 35mm prime lenses.</p>

<p>what i have to test first is if there is going to be a huge amount of vignetting with a 4x4 slide in a 35mm projector.</p>

<p>thanks for the answers david and ross.</p>

<p>david, thats what i had thought originally... since it covers the vertical and horizontal, then it should be able to do a square. but then i realized that there is a considerable amount in each of the four corners that isnt covered by the lens in either vertical or horizontal.</p>

<p>ross. if you're still around, I had one more question for you. Is the vignetting a lot or just a very slight amount? I mean, does the shape of the image become an octagon like a traffic 'stop' sign? Or is it just a touch of darkening in the corners?</p>

<p>thanks again</p>

<p>ross</p>

<p>I was wondering if anyone has tried projecting super slides (4x4 cm slides for 35mm projectors) using a P300 with a Leica Colorplan lens?</p>

<p>I have the Leica P300 and Colorplan lens, but have not been able to try super slides. I wonder if there is any vignetting?</p>

<p>Thanks for your help.</p>

<p>I'm looking for a very compact medium format camera. The idea I have is to use 120 film that will eventually be cropped to 4x4cm square slides. These will be mounted on super-slide mounts for viewing on my 35mm projector.</p>

<p>I already have a very nice 35mm film system for my travels and just wanted to add one compact medium format body to my bag to be able to shoot super-slides.</p>

<p>I've asked a similar question before and gotten some very nice answers. But this time I'm thinking that I should try to get a compact 645 or 6x6 camera so I don't have to cut away and waste too much film... as would be the case with a 6x7 or 6x9 being cropped to 4x4.</p>

<p>I'm okay with a camera that has one fixed lens. But the idea of being able to switch lenses is obviously more appealing. </p>

<p>I am considering the Mamiya 6 because when the lens and body are retracted, it really is slim and easily packable. But I wanted to post this question in case I'm overlooking some other good options.</p>

<p>I did a little research and found that the Mamiya 6 (when retracted) is more compact than a Fuji GA645, a Mamiya 7, and a Bronica RF645. Are there any 645 or 6x6 folders out there that are readily available, easy to use, and give results as good as the Mamiya 6? </p>

<p>Keep in mind that by cropping to 4x4, I would be using the sweet spot of the lens. Also, the perspective on any 120 format lens would become more tele with the 4x4 crop.</p>

<p>Just wondering if there are viewfinder diopters made for the Mamiya 6. And if there are some for the Mamiya 7, would they fit on the Mamiya 6? Specifically, I need a -2 diopter.</p>

<p>As a side question, is it a problem using the Mamiya 6 or 7 or 7II while wearing eyeglasses if I don't get a diopter? </p>

<p>Sorry guys, I was totally mistaken. It's actually interesting whats happened and I'd like to share it with you.</p>

<p>A few months ago I got interested in the Mamiya 7II and started researching it extensively. I researched every aspect of it for about a month. During this time I also started taking interest in 35mm rangefinders... which lead me to Leicas. I've been researching and studying Leica's for about a month. I was totally decided on buying a Leica MP... and yes I was willing to spend $3000 on it. Yesterday I went to a store where for the first time I got to pick up a Leica and get a good feel for it. Its a very nice camera but I thought the viewfinder was way too constricting for someone like me... I wear glasses. </p>

<p>So now suddenly I'm back at looking at Mamiya 7II's again. When I went to the B&H website and saw their prices for new equipment I thought they had really come down. The reality of it is that actually I've been looking at Leica prices for so long that the Mamiya prices seemed so low!!!</p>

<p>I shoot only film and have a bunch of Pentax FA lenses. I'll be getting a Pentax DSLR for my wife. Most of the Pentax digital cameras come with kit lenses such as the DA 18-55.</p>

<p>I'm wondering how easy would it be to swap between a DA lens and an FA lens on a digital camera. If my wife used the DA 18-55 then she'd most probably want to often interchange with the FA 77 for some shots. </p>

<p>So, is changing such lenses just a matter of taking one off, putting the other on, and shooting away. Or does one have to go into the menu each time an FA lens is mounted and specify some data? FA lenses have an aperture ring and I think the DA lenses don't.</p>

<p>Thanks for your help</p>

<p>Mihai,</p>

<p>Thanks so much for the quick response. I really appreciate it. </p>

<p>Thanks again</p>

<p>Asim</p>

<p>I have ordered some super slide mounts from Frugal Photographer about 4 days ago. I need to contact them to follow up on the order and check the status of my order. On the website, in order to pull up the contact email address, I need to go through Windows Outlook. The computer that I have right now does not have Outlook. </p>

<p>Can someone please give me the contact info from their website for Frugal Photographer. I believe email is the prefered way of contacting them.</p>

<p>Thank you very much.</p>

<p>I went to the B&H website and the price for a Mamiya 7II seems lower than before. The body alone is selling for $2371. I kind of remember it being sold before for about $4000 or somewhere around there. </p>

<p>Does this mean that perhaps Mamiya is going to be discontinuing the 7II?</p>

<p>Can anyone give me an estimate of how long it usually takes for film to come back from dr5? I'm in Indiana at my sister's. I'm about to send out some film to dr5 but then I'm leaving for Dubai in about 2 weeks. Do you think I'd be lucky enough to get it back here in Indiana before I depart or will my sister have to hold on to it till i come back in a few months?</p>

<p>thank you so much Len and Danny. I have contacted Silvano's and will be heading there instead of downtown. This makes my life much easier too because I'm staying near the airport. Silvano's is going to be much easier getting to and from.</p>

<p>Thanks again!</p>

<p>I am heading into downtown Toronto today and just found out that Downtown Camera's E6 processor is down. What other place in Toronto will do a good job? </p>

<p>I've heard that Toronto Image Works is highly recommended for film processing. Is this the case with E6?<br>

I am leaving in one hour... please respond quickly.<br>

thank you so much!</p>

<p>The first part is a serious question. The second part is meant to humor you:</p>

<p>So let's say you have a Leica M4... which does not have a meter. And so you decide you will get the Voigtlander VC meter to stick on the hotshoe. But then you also want to shoot with a 20mm lens which takes an external viewfinder. So how do you solve this? Is there a gadget out there that turns one hotshoe into two?<br>

==============</p>

<p>And if you really want to get wild...<br>

What if you need a separate hotshoe for:<br>

1. The Voigtlander VC meter<br>

2. An external viewfinder<br>

3. A hotshoe bubble/spirit leveler<br>

4. A hotshoe flash<br>

5. A Gossen Digisix pointing backwards to be used as an incident light meter<br>

6. Another spare hot shoe just to alleviate the worries of not having enough hotshoes.</p>