jack_welsh

<p>Thanks. </p>

<p>Thanks,</p> <p>This is super-xx film. Would like to try a light tight method. The see-saw method depends greatly on just how light tight your dark room really is.</p>

<p>Just remember that the RB/RZ is super heavy. Have all 4 MF models in the Mamiya line. The only camera i have that weighs more is my Cambo 4x5. And, maybe not by much.</p>

<p>have a roll of 130 film that I took some photos with. How do others develop those larger size roll films? Since there are no reels that size. I cut a short piece of that end and developed that and the picture came out some what decent. Due to the age of the film and my developing method. Placing the cut film inside a developing tank.Looking for a light tight method. Not the old see saw method.</p>

<p>thanks, have 2 holders.</p>

<p>Have an old glass plate camera that I want to make glass plates for. What does the 665/5 mean?<br> thanks</p>

<p>thanks</p>

<p>My HC-110 dilution g for 16 minutes with T=Max 100 came out very well.</p>

<p>Is, it critical in how the film is placed inside a can for pinhole?<br> Does the film have to be against the side of the can?<br> thanks</p>

<p>Every one thanks.<br> For years D-76. More recently Rodinal and HC-110.<br />have been thinking of getting D-23 and Kodalk. Liking the old processes, guess I like to experiment. more.</p>

<p>thanks wondering since Adams developed Tri-x in HC 110 dilution G for 18 minutes, does it apply to only that film, A slower speed for less,etc. And, can Borax be good for any of the 3 developers I mentioned? Or Kodalk is for D-23.<br> Experimenting is fine, maybe that's why we all use film. But, any time tested starting points is helpful. Heard that Borax can be used to reduce fog, for example.</p>

<p>thanks,<br> Have done B&W developing for at least 40 years. Not looking for everything. Just trying some thing new. Heard that Adams did semi-stand with HC-110 dilution G. just looking for a start. When a person uses Rodinal or D-23, for example, looking for which of the 3 Borax,Washing soda, or Kodalk would work with which ones, if any, and under what circumstances. From what I understand, doing Rodinal with stand development isn't lazy. Can take a lot of experimenting to see what works best for your conditions,etc.</p> <p>thanks, again.</p>

<p>Thinking about doing stand development and 2 bath developing,too<br> Question, have heard people mention Rodinal, HC-110 and D-23 First 2 I have. Also hear things about Borax, washing soda and Kodalk. Now, of those 3, which works with what.Trying to find info on HC-110 with dilution."G" and it's developing times. Have done a little of 1:100 with Rodinal.Know that Kodalk is used with D-23 for some applications. but, what about Borax and washing soda? Is, the latter only used with coffee? Why would some one add Borax with HC-110 or Rodinal, or anything else.? Do mostly MF and some 4x5. Use roll film tanks and a 4x5 Yankee tank. No trays for sheet film.</p> <p>Thanks</p>

<p>Found that using vinegar works quite well</p>