adam_klaum

A freshly developed roll of 35mm is hanging right behind me drying. The 120 roll has already been processed, dried, cut and stored in sleeves.

 

Let me just say....I'm hooked!!!

 

What a rush pulling those negatives out and actually seeing images on them. WOO HOO!

 

Turns out my basement is 68 deg. So I put everything down there last night after mixing.

 

So I'm feeling pretty smug :-) this was a lot of firsts for me:

 

1. First time I ever loaded film onto a reel (no I didn't practice with junk rolls first, probably should have but it went off without a hitch, both the 120 and the 35mm)

 

2. First time I ever developed film of any kind.

 

3. First time I ever used a medium format camera (newly acquired Yashica 124G).

 

4. First time I ever conducted a film speed test.

 

etc. etc. etc.

 

So I'm pretty excited. Thank you all for your advice and help!

Just for kicks I took Kodak's table and charted the values for my film and developer. So with simple interpolation I can get an idea of development times for all temps between 65 and 75. Looks to me like 7 minutes at 73 deg.<br><br>

 

<img src="http://www.sirensongboutique.com/temp/image001.gif">

*Smacking forehead* but of course! Yes inside the film box it says 9 1/2 min. for D-76 1:1. So according to Kodak's website that means I have "PROFESSIONAL T-MAX 100" not "T-MAX 100 Professional". Good grief...

Sorry to confuse. Tap water is out of the equation at this point. I will either have distilled water in the fridge or distilled water sitting out. If I can do everything at 73 deg. Then it will all be sitting out. So every component of the process is going to be at 73 deg.

Actually this seems to say it all:<br><br>

 

<a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j78/j78.jhtml?id=0.1.16.14.30.4.7.4.4&lc=en#003a">Kodak D-76 Publication</a><br><br>

 

Says 7 1/2 min. at 72 deg with 1:1. So maybe 7 min. even at 73 deg.? Seems like they are subtracting a full minute for each 2 deg.<br><br>

 

One thing that is really confusing to me is that they have two different T-MAX 100s listed:<br><br>

 

T-MAX 100 Professional

PROFESSIONAL T-MAX 100<br><br>

 

These have pretty different development times. How do I know which one I have? Is one older or discontinued? The D-76 package says that the "PROFESSIONAL T-MAX 100" has a film code of "100TMX". My film box says "1.100TMX 120 ISO 100", so is this what I have?

Well wait a minute here. Could I do everything at 73 deg? I don't have to refrigerate my water. I could just have it all sitting out. Why would I have to use D-76 stock? Can't you adjust 1:1 development times as well? The D-76 package says time for 1:1 is 9 1/2 min. at 68 deg. for Professional T-MAX 100. So if I go by the rule stated earlier I subtract 30 sec. for every 2 degrees. So that would be 8 min. 15 sec. at 73 deg. right?

 

I am doing film speed tests for this round of negatives so whatever process I use is going to be my standard process for this camera, with this lens, with T-MAX 100 developed in D-76 1:1.

Thanks for the replies and ideas. I did some testing last night and found that it takes about 2 hours for 1L of water to rise from 55 deg. to 62 deg in my house. Our house is a pretty constant 73 degrees. So if I keep some water refrigerated and some out in the room I can get a pretty good mix (after two hours) to get me to 68-69 deg.

 

Ha ha Scott, I'll always take two explanations of the same process!

Hello all,

 

Sorry for the newbie question. I am about to start developing my own B&W film

and I have a concern over temperature. The water coming out of the tap is never

anywhere near 68 (not that I would want to use my tap water anyway). I have

heard and seen a lot about water baths, ice, and monkeying around to try and

cool things down to the right temperature. Is it possible to simply refrigerate

all of the mixed chemicals over night and then the next day take them out and

let them "come up" to the right temperature? Will refrigeration negatively

affect them? I'm using D-76, Kodak Fixer, Kodak Hypo Clearing, Kodak Indicator

Stop and Photoflo.

 

Adam

Perhaps the scale was just pictured at the high end. Does the scale normally go up to 25,000th of a second and more?

There is also a sticker on it stating that it is "Calibrated for 1/2.5 shutter"

Hello all,

 

I am looking at a Pentax Honeywell 1/21 spot meter for sale, but it

seems to differ from most of the ones I've seen. It says HYCAM on the

side and where shutter speed is normally on the dial the numbers are

more like 6k, 12k, 25k. Is this the same as any other 1/21 but with a

different dial? Or is it calibrated for some other use?

Here is a reworked plan based on what I said above.

 

 

Also, I have not begun planning the vertical space (i.e. shelves) yet. There are certainly some vertical options here. Like the Print Drying Racks could be on the floor under some additional counter space next to the sink. At this point I am trying to take the first step and decide what needs framed in and how large to build the sink.

 

Thanks for the good ideas all of this is very valuable information. I'm going to print out this thread and keep it handy throughout the process.

Thank you all for the great and fast responses! I made these plans mostly from reading Ansel's "The Negative" and "The Print". He mentions a separate workroom which is why I set it up this way. I had originally had a 10ft sink in the plans but then thought I could only get 8ft plywood. I liked the 10ft better as it theoretically gave me much more room for trays. That being said, I would have to nix the inside wall and door for the larger sink. Can anyone think of a reason why I couldn't just make this one big room instead of two smaller ones? This would also effectively put my enlarger in the middle of the counter space instead of against a wall.

Hello all,

 

I am planning to build a darkroom in my basement in the near future

and have drawn up some plans to use for the space available. I have

posted the plans on my website here:<br><br>

 

<a href="http://home.comcast.net/~klaumphoto/darkroom.html">Darkroom

Plans</a><br><br>

 

I have never built or really used a darkroom before so if anyone can

take a look at these plans and let me know if they see any fatal flaws

I would greatly appreciate it. Any suggestions are welcome.

 

Adam