jay_kickliter

My Leica CM collected a little sand yesterday. Well, more that a

little. Too much for a simple vacume job. The flimsy closure that

covers the lens when turned off might as well not be there.

Can someone reccomend a shop on the east coast (I'm in Norfolk, VA)

that can disassemble and clean it? The camera is not under warrant.

thanks,

Jay

Actually, I know its the pot. DAG overhauled the camera and installed a new cell.

It works fine in daylight. And when I put pressure on the low pot it works.

I never used this camera much (it was given to me with some lenses I do uses), but I wanted to use the new Voigtlander 40/1.4 and figured I'd try to fix it.

I'm looking into wether or not I want to get into Ilfochrome home

processing, and have 2 questions.

Has anyone tried the low contrast paper? Does it eliminate the need

for a contrast mask? And how doest it look?

Plus, people always talk about how expensive the chems are. Do you

have to mix the entire P-30 kit at once? Or can you mix it as you use

it?

Alternativly I was going to try Fujichrome Superglossy paper. Some

say type-R looks great, a and others say its terrible. Any opinions?

And no, I'm not interested in digital. I know you can get great

results, but this is a hobby for me, and I like working in the

darkroom.

thanks,

Jay

Does anybody know what value potentiometer the Leica CL uses for its

low light adjustment? The High and Medium pots for the meter in my CL

work fine, but the low is just barely working.

I've some experience in fixing microelectronics (courtesy of the

Navy), and figured I'd give a shot at replacing or bypassing it.

As common of a problem this is, and as many Leica folks there are,

I'm supprised no one makes a replacement circuit board for these

cameras. It really wouldn't be that hard to do, could probably be

done much better than the original.

thanks,

Jay

I've found that APX 100 in 120 format requires ~8 more minutes of dev

time to get the same densities as 35mm format (18mins for 120 vs

12mins for 35). Is this normal, or am I doing somthing wrong?

Hi,

I'm about to go back out on a Navy supply ship (as a civialian

mariner) for 4 to 6 months. I take a lot of photos in various ports.

Since space is at a premium at sea, I can't store chemicals that

have to be made into bulky stock solutions (Xtol).

I'm already using Rodinal for APX 100, but realize its not the best

dev. for Neopan 1600. What dev is good that can be mixed straight

from a syrup w/ a syringe? How about HC-110? Any others? True film

speed (Zone I) is more important to me than grain.

Now just have to figure out where to hide the X-Rite.

thanks,

Jay

Today I took a test (Zone I & VIII) roll of APX 100 to the local lab

to have the densities read. It looks to me the EI is around 80. But

the zone VIII frame that corresponds to the zone I frame has a

density of just 1.16 above base & fog. I don't have an enlarger at

the moment (live on a boat) but I normaly use a diffuser.

My problem is that I don't want to bother the lab again to read

another test. The Zone VIII frame that corresponds to EI 50 has a

density of 1.25, wich is what I want to use. Approximately, how much

more of an increase in development time would I need to get an

extra 2/3 stop? I can semi-accurately use my light meter as a

densitometer to judge the frame I know is 1.25 against the next

test. Just need a suggestion on development time.

I developed Rodinal 1+50 68deg 17min. Gentle inversions first min.,

one inversion and slight swirl every 30secs.

thanks,

Jay