zachariah_edwardson

For Black and white, I would try to develop your own, I gotten a lot better results developing my own film. Also it not expensive with the changing bag and such. walmart can do all 120 roll but e-6.

Folks need 400 speed film for some of the lesser camera's, and to be blunt, even cheap 400 speed film can outdo a lot of digitals (just that digital users take 10 shots to get one right..)from a typical photo user. I happen to like the price/quality of Gold 100/200.

Tmax has some sensitizing dye(s) that are used in the film. Give Tmax Extra time to fix.

I use Rodinal all the time, (just used it yesterday in fact) and I use a "childrens medicine dropper" to measure the compounds.

Change the film in low light - I have that problem with my remaining stock of J+C 100 film - as it not very tight in the roll (thus it has a lighttight plastic tube to put the film in.

It is hearsay, but as I understand, agfa film machines are to be used for non-photographic film production in korea.

Hello John-paul

 

I have used both 35mm and Mid formats (TRL, old folders, and a 645) and I can say that you will be nicely surpised by midformat. I do generally Tripod the Midformat camera (minus the folder) just to get a better shot.

My first roll I ever processed did that to me, and it was a fixing issue. Make sure you give your fixer enough time to completely fix the negitive. I usally give the fixer a little more time fix the neg, then wash and dry extened times.

 

No matter how many rolls of film I process, there is always a grin on my face when I see my negtives nice and clear, as I hang it up to dry.

Really, while both C-41 films and at 100 speed, these are both good products that are not aimed at the same market really.

 

Gold is a consumer product, designed and sold for more of the daylight snapshot taker, usually in a less then ideal 35mm camera. A similer Fuju product would be the Fuji Super HQ film.

 

Reala is the top of the line Fuji film, for the serious photo taker, (better quality, less forgiving) Kodak product that would be similer to the Reala would the porta line of films that Kodak produces.

 

(mind you, I do have a lot of Kodak gold in my freezer, as you can sometimes get many rolls for a song, and I enjoy taking street shots with it and then in the digital darkroom making it a Black and white print. )

Don't Worry lauren, we have all been there at some point of time with cameras, and sometimes I even forget.

 

you have shutter speeds, these are set up in a set pattern

 

8 seconds

4 seconds

2 seconds

1 second

1/2 second

1/4

1/8

1/15

1/30

1/60

1/125

1/250

 

 

basicly, your reducing the time the shutter is open by 1/2 each time to shorten the shutter. Then you have F stops

 

1.4 2.0 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22

 

Each time you go down these numbers, your 1/2 the amount of light as well.

 

So lets say the camera recommends at the F stop 5.6 a 25 speed film to have the shutter speed of 1/30 of a second. But you put in a roll of Ilfords fine product FP4, (which is a 125 speed film, but for this example, we will shoot it at 100 speed and develop it as such)

 

Now 100 speed film is a faster film then 25, as you know, so we know that we need to allow less light onto the film to have a proper shot. it is 4 times as fast as the 25 film (25 -> 50 -> 100) so you need to with the film have a few options. you could change the shutter, the fstop, or both to allow less light. to follow the example I used before hand, 1/30 at fstop 5.6, you can simply move to Fstop 11 and 1/30 of a second, or go to fstop 8 and go to 1/60 of a second.

Get a gaggle of 35mm point and shoots on your fav. auction site, and you will be better off, as with slides your really wanting something a with more ablity to be over or under exposed. If you want fun, the Ilford HP5+ loaded camera's are supposed to be fun.

well frank - a lot of folks, even regular photo types, don't know too much about the ASA format. For someone who does not know better, and is told that you get a Fstop between 25-100, would think that you would get almost 3 Fstops between 100-400. Also many people going from digital to film have a hard time understanding it, even if it might be 2nd nature to someone who done it for years.

Blue ridge parkway is good

 

Go up 421 north, and in a hour you will be in the area I normally take photos from.

Thank you for the replys, very good infomation, and will buy some rolls of HP5+ and Delta 400, and then will go to Tri-X if I am still unhappy with the results (though if I am unhappy with results, most likely it is my shooting, and not the film.)

I would keep shooting the Delta films, They are very good for what you are shooting and while their are other options you can try, If you like the results of delta, then go for it!

I put a roll of film though my new 645, and I am visiting family in the

Charlotte, NC area, does anyone know of a place where you can have a C-41 roll

of film processed and prints/scans made. I do not need amazing quality, as

this is a test roll, but I need some place that can do it in a hour or two

would be required, the quality just has to be serviceable. (Also has to be

open on a Sat.)

I am a big user of Efke 100 speed film (albit, in the 35mm form) and I use Rodinil for the Efke, and never used the Clayton products, So I cannot tell you if it works well, but I have seen amazing shots with Efke film and regular D-76, so I am sure you may do well with it.

I would say if your looking for a Sub 100 speed film, Try PanF first. Efke 25 can do amazing shots, and if you go with Efke 25 you won't be going wrong, but it has a odd tonal range. PanF is most likely more closer to what you want then Efke. I have not used the Arista 50 or Rollei 25, so I cannot comment on them. I personally use Efke 25, PanF, and Efke 100 for my slow speed shots, and I am going in the other direction from you, as I started off with slow speed film and now moving to the faster films.

The one thing to remember about the Mamiya 645 for handheld is that it is heavy. I bought the 645 recently (and love it) but I am using it for tripod shots only (due to the weight). I am using a old, uncoated lens folder for handheld Mid-format.

the Efke 100, rated @ 100 Developed in Rodinal at 1:100<div></div>

I know this is one that is somewhat of a opinon question, but I was wondering

what you would recommend for me to start out as I try faster films. I have

finally have the time to get back to one of my real loves, and I am falling in

love with the look of Black and white.

 

First of all, I do not have a darkroom, so I use a darkbag and get prints made

at photofinishers. I also when I have a chance I also scan in images to

share online. My equipment is a Canon Elan 7n and two Mid-format cameras, a

YashicaMat and a recently purchased mamiya 645, Still, most of my shots will

most likely be with the Canon (35mm).

 

My developers I use is Rodinal and Diafine. I would like to pay less then 5

dollars a roll for 35mm. which eliminates some films.

 

So far, I know what I like in the slower speed films.

 

25 - Efke 25

50 - Ilford PanF

100 - Efke 100 (This is my "bread and butter" film)

 

I have been using the C-41 process films for 400 speed film, but I am looking

for traditional films in the higher speed. I know one way is to sample the

films and find what you like, but what films would you recommend for the

faster speeds.

 

Some of the films that I would have to look at would be (not really wanting to

learn agfa films, as they are not produced anymore)

 

 

 

FP4 (in Diafine)

HP5

Delta series

Efke 400

Neopan

 

How do these films compare to what I have been using, and what would you

recommend me buying a few rolls to see how I like the film.

Each film has it own good points and bad points. I know some people swear by T-max, and I have seen their results and I agree that you can do amazing things with Tmax 100. I Personally do not use it on a normal basis, but I have a 100 foot roll of it in the freezer for me to play with one day. 90 percent of what a photo is is the person behind the camera, I can shock people on the photos my 60 year old folder takes, but give it to some other people, and a lot of posters on this board, and my results will be shameful to what the next guy can do. Some people want no grain, and some people love a little grain, and some people like a larger, pritty grain.

 

I Happen to use Efke as my 100 speed film, and have been quite happy with my results. But you may not like it, and if your pleased with T-max 100, then use it.

First of all, John-Paul, Great shot!

 

I have shot a lot of Efke 100 with good results, and next month my film order is going to be a complete Efke order for my B+W film (I mostly use Efke and Ilford products these days, I am shooting out the last of my Kodak B+W films. My only issue with Efke is that it does have a issue of curling up on you. I think that your example you gave looks off for the usual Efke shot. The one thing that Efke can suffer from is that folks with bad skin can look really poor. I guess the "Classic" match of Efke Film is Rodinal.

A camera can cause scratches, but it is normally the processor. (my local labs are at least willing to say when I come in "Mail it out this week" if they are having a issue. (One reason why I go back to them) To make sure run a cheep roll though your camera, and send it to another lab to see if you have scratches, if you don't, it is most likely the processor.

 

It can be fustrating, here is a great example of a great shot ruined by a processor.<div></div>

If you want little or no grain, another way is to try the C-41 B+W films, which due to the process, end up being rather grainless as the image is from dye clouds and not grains of silver. They have a unique look and has some advantages (easy development, no grain and good (400) speed) and disadvantages (negs do not last as long, and the kodak film is set to print on color paper, not B+W Paper.)

 

If I do this right, I will attach a photo that I get a lot of print request, that used the Kodak C-41 film. and shows off the lack of grain.<div></div>