ernie_targonski

I have a HP 7960 photo printer that has been working perfectly since

purchase (alittle more than a year ago). Recently, a scraping noise

will eminate form the printer while making a print. The noise occurs

near the end of the print, about 1/2" from the edge. It only occurs

during borderless prints. The resulting print has an obvious scrape

mark (not band) and smeared ink. HP tech support had me perform soft

and hard resets, as well as cleanings and calibrations, all to no

avail. They then told me it was the paper, I told them it didn't

matter what paper I was using, HP, Kodak, Fuji.... they all did it.

HP then said it was due to humid conditions and the paper curling

while inside the printer. The fix was to make sure the paper is

stored flat, and to be sure it was flat before loading into the paper

tray. I store my paper flat, in an air conditioned room, and always

appears to be flat when I use it.

Any thoughts?? Thanks in advance........

I agree with previous answer specifying hyperfocal distance. I have taken a few nature photograghy classes with Hank Erdmann and Willard Clay, both have taught the importance of hyperfocal focusing. One thing, on most 35mm lenses, f11-f16 may produce sharper images than f22. Remember that when you find the hyperfocal distance, everything behind that point should be in focus, it's the distance in front of that point to the camera that becomes critical. Also, hyperfocal distance depends upon focal lenght of you lens, if using a zoom, different distances apply. I learned using a standard 50mm. Practice - practice.

I have Elan 7N (no ECF)and EOS3 / ECF. My experience with the ECF on my EOS3 is favorable. I find it will hit the focus point I'm looking at about 75% of the time, the other 25% will be a focus point in close proximity. Calibrate often and it gets better as you go. You have to work with ECF for awhile for the applications to become apparant. As for the Elan 7N is general, I carry it for casual shooting when I don't feel like lugging my 3 / booster / EX550. I love it. It just so happans that a friend of mine has a N80. They comapre favorably, 6 of 1, 1/2 dozen of the other. I'm a Canon man so the Elan was my natural choice. My buddy does like the feel of the Elan with the battery grip attached though. Don't think Nikon offers a battery grip for the N80. Hope this helps.....

Thnaks for the answers. I didn't want to start a testing thread here, just looking for some info. I have extensive experience with my EOS 3, it nails the "sunny 16" rule as well and has always produced results that I expected. I shoot slide film exclusively as well. When my 3 indictes dead on "sunny 16" at ISO 100, my new 7N indicates a shutter speed of 1/60 @ f16, using the same 50mm lens. And no, the comp. is not dialed in. Pushing my ISO setting to 125, gives 1/90 @ f16. I confirmed this with the first four rolls shot out of the 7N this past weekend. No big deal. It's common for meters to be off......... Thanks again

I have purchased a new Elan 7N. Upon checking it out for the first

time, I found the meter to be indicating an overexposed condition by

approx. 1/2 stop (I shoot in manual mode). Without getting into

testing proceedures and the like, has anybody else noticed this with

the Elan 7N?

 

Thanks in advance

Binyuan,

I have been to all of the Indy F1 races. The first and second years were OK for ameture shots. You could shoot between some of the concrete barriers and find a few holes in the fencing. Last year, that all changed, I had a very difficult time getting any shot without some sort or safety barrier in the way. I have some decent shots on Saturday from the grandstands directly across from the pit exit. Sunday all grandstand is reserved. Your best day is Sat to roam. People pics are great too.

Tip: check the souvenir area about an hour after qual on Saturday, sometimes drivers are signing autographs and you can get a good shot. I got a great shot of Ralf in the BMW booth last year. Travel lite, I used EOS3 / 70-200L. Other posters are correct, without photog credentials, you're really not going to get a magazine shot.

All in all, you'll have a fantastic time. Maybe I'll see ya there. Just look for a guy with EOS3 / 70-200L, Fosters oil can, and cigar.

Just tried a new E6 lab that is local. Claim to have Refrema dip and

dunk, and also have 4 hr. turn around. Very reasonable as well, $7

per 36 shot roll, mounted. I picked my first two rolls from them, and

the mounts are not numbered or dated. I called the lab and they said

they dont' imprint the mounts, not even offered as an extra. Has

anybody else run into this. I'm a student and often make notes ref.

frame numbers. Is this common??

I have come across many boxes of Kodak slides shot in the 1950's and

60's by an Uncle. I have scanned some of the slides and they look

pretty darn good. One thing I have found though is debris or dirt

that can't be removed with a blower brush. Any suggestions on proper

cleaning without scratching?? Thanx in advance.

I use the "Moose" combination of 81A and circular polarizer on Provia, Velvia, Sensia, or any other film (print included)extensively for nature / landscape. The "look" is just very slightly warm and colors really pop. Can be alittle overwhelming with Velvia at times though.

I went to Perfect Image today, 02-09-05. The lab is not yet

operational. I spoke to a guy there who said they should be open in

10 days or so.

Thanks George. I've heard some good things about Lightbox. They are also recommended by Calumet Photo in Bensenville. I get an hour for lunch, should be able to make to East Dundee and back once or twice a week. Guess I'm kind selfish.... looking for pro processing and convenience too.

 

Thanks everybody for the answers

Kevin,

Have delt with Camera House previous; no problems. Since I leave my house for work at 6am and usually don't get back till 6pm, it's just tons more convenient to deal with my film processing on my lunch hr. up here in Wood Dale.

Ever heard anything about Lightbox in East Dundee??

I agree 100% with Nicola and Ron. For the most part, I have C41 processed at a local 1hr. and scan the negs for prints. I use a camera shop or pro lab for E6 and B&W (no prints, process & maybe contact sheet only) and scan, print myself. Only issue is the 1hr. places may not be too gentle with your negs, so extra scratch remaove time in PS my be required. Use a HP 7960 and the B&W prints are very nice.

I live in Lockport, IL and work in Wood Dale, IL. Have been shooting

slide film almost exclusively for about 2 years now. Have been using

a camera shop in Addison, IL for E6 processing. They use a service

that provides 24 service and is done off site.... where, I don't

know. Quality seems to be good, albeit a scratch or mounts not marked

with frame numbers has occured. I have been looking to try another

lab in the Wood Dale, IL area for some time. What is the low down on

Perfect Image in Des Plaines?? Professional processing? Good quality?

What was their past reputation?

 

Thanks in advance.

Thanks everybody. Sensia has been my "everyday" film for quite awhile. It scans very well for me too (even on a 2840 Minolta). Sensia has been the best "learning" film for me as it is cheap and seems to provide decent images. Using Velvia 50 and 100 for scenic / landscape / nature more and more though. Have never ventured past Velvia or Sensia though. Thanks again.

Thanks Scott. Think I'll give it try.

 

Next time I ask a "photgraphy" question, I'll make sure I reference that I have an EOS3. God forbid I use the information obtained here on a F5.

I have read that Fuji Sensia slide film is the amateur version Fuji

Astia. I have also read that Sensia is the amateur version of Fuji

Provia. Any truth to either claim? I am an avid Sensia user and would

be interested in trying the "pro" version.

 

Thanks in advance

I am also a past Pentax user; SF1, Pz1P. I chose EOS3 and have been very happy. I don't believe the meter on the 3 is "light years" ahead of the Pz, just different. Metering on the 3 is not just segmented, it's evaluative and weights to what ever focus point you have set. That was the biggest hurdle to get over for me... once you do, it becomes a non issue. I have posted here when I first got my 3 to discuss the metering issue. Am currently enrolled in a nature photography certificate program with the 3 and have found that in eval. metering, bracketing isn't needed all that much..... I shoot manual anyway so my "bracketing" is my own compensation on the scene. I prefer mirror lock up for landscape and the 3 has a function for it..... with remote shutter release and tripod, sharp..... any lens.

The EOS3 was, to me, the closest "feeling" camera to my Pentaxs' (which I really liked). I think Canon's in general feel like Pentaxs'. I feel I made a good choice. Pentax just isn't a vast system. I'll keep my Pz until I get another 3 body. FYI... it took me less than 15min to get my new 3 up and shooting, as it even functions like a Penatx..... user functions and all. Good Luck.

By standard photo bag, I meant the shoulder strap type like the Tamerac Pro series 10. I realize the way you work and what you shoot may dictate what type of gear / bags you use. Maybe I will look into a bigger backpack for nature / day hikes. Then maybe a shoulder bag for the track..... that's were I have the most issues with constant on / off.

 

Thank everybody

Any opinions on backpacks vs. standard photo bags. I enjoy nature,

wildlife, the race track (cars / motorcycles) and general

photograhy. That said, I really don't "trek" or do hikes longer than

a day. I have a small backpack now, and need to upgrade due to

addtional equipment. I have found the backpack to work well for allot

of situations, but somethimes find it cumbersome..... the constant

on / off thing. Seems a standard photo bag might provide easier

access. Anybody hiked a day with a standard photo bag?

 

Thanks in advance

As a courtesy to the shops and labs I've tried, I didn't mention any names. Just looking for ideas........

 

Thanks everyone

I've been trying different camera shops in the Chicago area for 35mm,

E6 and BW processing for quite some time now and have not found any

repeatle results. Most of the shops send out E6 and B&W, where, I

don't know. I have also tried the mail order thing to NY; turn around

and the condition of my return shipment was horrible.

Any recomendations? Quality and service mean more than cost (within

reason).

 

Thanks in advance

I am currently enrolled in a Nature Photography Certificte program at the Morton Arboretum, located near Chicago. Instructors are "pros" who making a living from nature photography, Hank Erdmann being one.

Hank shoots and recommends manual mode, using evaluative metering (he uses Nikon F5). I use EOS 3 and have been totally enlightened using manual mode with eval. metering. Learn the 5 basic tones and go from there. I have found with Velvia 50, using eval. metering, in most cases, I only need to compensate by 1/3 to 2/3 stop. Compensate by changing shutter speed or F stop. I too was an avid Av prioity user. Manual is 10 times faster (for me) and more of my shots are "keepers". I have researched how other "pros" shoot (motorsports, press, as well as nature) and the overwhelming mode is manual. One execption is Moose, he like Av priority. My suggestion..... take a class and learn from people who make a living from photography. Then decide how you like to shoot.

I agree totally with Mr.Thurlow concerning 28-135 sunset shots. I have a many great (I think anyhow) sunsets and sunrises shot in the FL Keys and Chicago lakefront with a 28-135IS / EOS3. Use the hood and good technique. Needless to say, I have been very happy with the 28-135 / EOS3 combo. I do not have any experience with 28-105.

I was new to Canon as well (had Pentax for 25yrs) when I purchased an EOS3 and 28-135IS. My 28-135IS does the same thing and seems to cause no problems. It did not alarm me at first, as my Pentax zooms wiggle slighlty at full extension (especially Viet Namese made). I have not experienced any creep.