juke

Bill C, yes the switch could be defective. The readings that I get are fine (tested against various step wedges).<br>

I have to check whether my densitometer gives stable readings from the same spot. So far I have always taken measured target off (eg. negative). Then I make one measurement without anything between light source and transmission measurement head. After that I make another measurment.

<p>Hi,

<p>I recently got a Machbeth TR-944 densitometer.

<p>I have original operator's manual, but it doesn't tell much about basic usage.

<p>The things that I wonder are:

<ul>

<li> Should I 'reset' measured value after each measurement by measuring without target (ie. take film strip out

and then push measure arm)? Currently I have figured out that it's probably the right way but I am not really

sure.<br>

However, if I take multiple measurements without taking targout out and taking plain reading between each

measurements, the result is quite odd.

<li> There is probably some fault in my densitometer. The reading does not stay on, it just flashes quicly when I

press measure arm down and take measurement. Not a big deal, but it would be nice if measured density value would

stay visible until next measurement is done.<br>

Or is that the way it should work?

</ul>

<p>Otherwise the densitometer works fine, it is calibrated using macbeth's own calibration target and checked

againts Stouffer's step wedge.

<p>Some basic use tips would be nice though :)

Hi,<br>

I have searhed sample images that shows if there are significant perfomance difference between Zenzanon PS 40mm

and Hasselblad's 40mm lens. So far I have found none.

<br>

So I am asking if someone could post crop of scanned film, picture taken either with bronica or hasselblad. The

scanning quality doesn't have to be very high, 1600dpi is really enough for rough judgements.

<br>

<br>

Why all this? Because I have owned two pieces of Zenzanon PS 40mm, and I am not really satisfied with the edge

sharpness. So I would like to see if both lenses I have owned are just bad, or are the lack of quality normal for

Zenzanon PS 40mm. And ofcourse, I would like to see how other wide lenses performs.

<br>

<br>Here are <a href="http://usagi.kapsi.fi/ps40/">some examples taken with Zenzanon PS 40mm</a>, however all

text is written in Finnish. But images will tell all necessary..

<br>Straight links to <a href="http://usagi.kapsi.fi/ps40/ps40-test1-small.jpg">one picture</a> and <a

href="http://usagi.kapsi.fi/ps40/ps40-test1-detail.jpg">cropped portion</a>.<br><br>

Sincerelly, Jukka

<p>Late reply...

<p>Yes, spotmaster 2 really eats batteries. Almost always when I need meter, there is BAT-warning.

<p>The swich is good idea - I will try to modify my spotmaster too :)

Hi,

This one thing has bugged me for a while.<br>

Back in eighties, I read from some article about zs calibration, that if you use

tungsten light source, you should overexpose by half step (+0.5EV) in order to

get result that is usable in natural light.<br><br>

Is this true? If is, then what it is based? Is it the spectral sensivity of the

B/W films or the spectral sensivity of the light meters?<br><br>

I use Gossen Spot-master 2 light meter, and it's spectral sensivity has it's

peak around 500nm - 600nm, and is half EV less sensitive at 400nm and 700nm.<br>

The nanometer readings does not say nothing to me, in photography everything I

had read is relative to Kelvins.<br><br>

My calibration process is simple: I shoot test negatives using gray card with

black background as an target and light source is 3400K photo lamp.

<br><br>

So now I am asking what kind of light source do you use in the calibration

process?<br>

Do I have care of that 0.5EV overexposure?<br><br>

Best regards,<br>

Jukka

These pictures are taken at streets during concert held nearby, the light was quite flat because of late evening.

<P>One thing that comes to my mind is to use DiXactol as two bath developer. But I havent tested it for Delta 100.

<p>The slight loss of shadow details is acceptable, the main goal is to get printable negatives by raising average density of negatives.

Hi

<p>I took several rolls of delta 100 and accidentally underexposed one roll by

one step (using ISO 200).

<p>I develop my delta 100 usually in Pyrocat-HD and now I am asking guidelines

of how much should I extend the developing time to get normal density for

negatives exposed as ISO 200?

<p>

Thanks, Jukka

Currently perhaps the main reason for carrying 5 different backs is the visualization; when I am shooting some subject, say for example ruins of old house, my visualization might vary quite much depending on viewpoint.

<p>This is the situation where having dedicated film backs for each contrast really helps. I can quickly switch between different contrast to match my current visualization.

<p>However, I think you all are right, shooting much more frames per subject helps to get 'perfect' negative.

<p>Now I usually shoot 3 frames of each composition. But if I wan't to check whether pre-exposure helps, it's another 3 frames. That fills rolls quite fast. Taking photo with different filter, again 3 more frames.

<p>So I am going towards conclusion that 2 or 3 backs is enough.

<p>I found another point that speaks behalf of exposing whole roll on one subject: I can choose film speed depending on subject. Generally film/subject approach makes use of zone system on MF more closer to zone system in large format.

I use zone system for my photography.

<p>I have 5 film backs, so my gear is ideal for full N-2,N-1,N,N+1,N+2 exposures.

The 5 backs is OK in most situations, but sometimes extra weight (or space

requirement) of 5 film backs is too much.

<p>What do you suggest on such situations?

I have thought couple of options:

<ul>

<li>Limit amount of film backs to only three (N-1,N,N+1) and if subject requires

N-2 or N+2 (or more extreme), then I expose whole roll using that subject.

That works, but cost bit more film.

<li>Limit amount of film backs even more, one back for N and one for other

lightning conditions. Easy to carry, but again requires more film.

<li>Use of three backs, but not in traditional contrast. Instead N-1 1/2, N and

N+1 1/2 backs. Then do some fine tuning of contrast during printing for N-1 1/2

and N+1 1/2 negatives.

</ul>

Hi,

<p>I recently purchased Gralab 300 darkroom timer (second hand).

It didn't include any manual, so no I am bit confused with all the switches.

<p>Could someone explain how this thing works. I will probably use it mainly for

film developing. Ofcourse it would help a lot if user's guide would be available

somewhere on the net. But Google didn't help much :/

Thank You.

<p>

I have confused them. I thought that in high key picture, there are some black details (like eyes, perhaps hair) and everything else is pale, almost white.

<p>

So for high key, I should expose picture so that there is basically no darker areas than middle gray? Ofcourse, that leads me again to thinking development. Perhaps lower contrast than normal would be good?<br>

Exposing by whites and checking that dark areas would not fall below middle gray (zone V).

Hi

<p>

I am looking for tips to take high key portraits with very simple (film)

equipments. That is only one hand held flash and perhaps some white material as

an reflective surface.

<br>

Some basic questions - I have search forum, but failed to get answers I need.

<ul>

<li> Is the high contrast development better? I guess that it would be, because

it keeps blacks black while raising higher tones.

<li> With single flash, is the reflection using roof best approach, or simply

45? angle?

<li> Is it possible to expose picture on normal contrast film and get good high

key effect during printing process using high contrast paper?

</ul>

<p>

Thanks for your help!

I have heard that normal photoshops in Japan does not sell slide and/or black &

white films. They sell only mostly used tourist films.

<p>So I need some helpful information. Any good shops in Tokyo, Kyoto and

Hiroshima that have good selection of B&W films in 120 size?

<p>I take lot of film to my Japan trip, but you never gonna know what happens,

so it is important to know some shops where I can buy some film :)

<p>Thank You.

Thank you for the link!

Awesome pictures there :)

Thanks for all for answers!

<p>I'll check out "Eyewitness Travel Guide for japan" book.

<p>Good to know limitations of golden temple. I didn't know photography limitations, only that native people cannot enter the temple.

<p>

I am going at summer, July. Not the best season. Hot, hot...

<p>I am thinking to spend part of trip at countryside. I really do not like asphalt jungles like Tôkyô, but my friend lives there so it's one place where I just have to go. The friend is also reason for going there at summer.

<p>Rachelle, thanks for the coastline tip! I'll check how it fits to my plans. I think that it will be one of the high priority areas in my route.

<p>About going as tourist or landscape photographer. I think it's somewhere between. I have to make some compromises and leave dedicated landscape photography for some later trip. I have feeling that this won't be my last trip to Japan :)

<p>Again, thank you very much. Dômo arigatô :)

Hi all,

<p>I am going to Japan for a month. Beside the other things, one of

trip's goal is to photograph landscapes using medium size B&W film.

<p>Now I have been searching and searching information about nature of

Japan. Animals and landscapes. Places that are good for taking photos.

<p>The results has been weak... The Lonely Planet Book: Hiking in

Japan has some usable information and The National Parks of Japan too.

I have both of them - and lot of tourist guides.

<p>Still, I haven't found any decent photograph book illustrating

landscapes of japan. The only one I have found is Seeing Japan, which

has really poor image quality.

<p>And where are all books about nature of japan? I wan't to know what

kind of animals there are, flowers, insects etc. I am such a nature freak.

<p><b>Any tips of books?</b> (Ofcourse I have some places where I will

surely go: Hiroshima, Kyôto, Nara, Tôkyô, Nikkô and Hakone (and

Fuji-san ofcourse).

<p> 30� or about field of view of 35mm lens.. Thats good starting point.

<p> I think that I should rely on flash meter (or guide numbers) when using longer lenses.

<br>Thanks for your answers :)

Hi

<br>

<p>Almost all old flashes has built-in lightmeter "eye", and I guess

that most of the modern flashes too has.

<p>At least Nikon SB-serie flashes have lightmeter. That leads to my

question - Does the metering field of internal light meter change

while using flashead's zoom (SB-24, SB-25, SB-26, SB-28, ..).

<p>If it won't, then how big should I assume the built-in meter's

reading area? That information would help a lot when shooting against

dark/light background.

<p>Regards, Juke

Hi,

<p>Does anyone know, which is coverage of light reflected by Lumiquest

pocket bouncer?

<p>I am wondering that just because I got the bouncer recently, and I

am not sure do I have enough time to take test pictures to the

film.<p>I assume that it covers at least 28mm lens angle? But how

about 24mm?

I think it's time for little update if someone is strugling with same lens.<p>

I sent lens to the service for check, the didn't found any flaws.

<br>

But I was still suspicious. I returned lens to the seller. Then I begun searching for replacement lens.. That took long, Bronica stopped all production - so no new lenses any more.<br>

Next I did lot of searching in my home country, but got nothing. These lenses are rare stuff.

<p>

At last, I found one really good from eBay and bought it. The mechanical quality was much better than in lens I had before. This was newer piece I think. Great!

<p>

Then followed the field tests... And the result? Performance of the lens was quite similar to my previous one!

<br>So it's definetly lens feature... As for aligment, I have tested that and no difference.

<p>Now I just have to accept that wide lens like this has poor corner performance...

<p>

<br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/member-photos?user_id=1090556&include=all">-- Jukka Vuokko</a>