gary_gumanow
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Posts posted by gary_gumanow
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<p>If there is a bluish tint to the film, I remember that Fomapan 400 had this some coloring.</p>
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<p>Don't know if you've cropped these images. Depending on how you've cropped these, will have an impact on grain. </p>
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<p>Eli, Thanks for posting your response. And yes, your dad was an amazing printer. GW was lucky to have him. Is it your dad that is featured in the Bill Moyers video? </p>
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<p>I've seen this dark band on my film, 120 also, but it was because I checked my bag with my film in it through baggage on a flight. The scanner when you check your bag will fog your film. Did you check this film through in your checked bag, or do you hand carry onto the plane?</p>
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<p>Other books to read on this subject are from Susan Sontag and John Berger - Ways of Seeing.</p>
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<p>I'm on the tail end of the boomer category, born 1961. Been taking photographs most of my life, since age 6) but took a break when my kids were born. Didn't even take many photos of my kids. Picked it up again 6 years ago. I've found mixing it up helps tremendously. Pinhole, street, urban landscape, rinse, and repeat... Open your mind and see how all of this can apply to even a geezers mind. See what's there and see how that can apply to your own vision of it.</p>
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<p>First thing I do when I see a deal too good to be true on CL is google the exact text from the description of the item.<br>
Leica M9 $2500... "I tried this but with my eyesight it is just going to work for me." Bam! It came up in just about every city that has a CL site.<br>
It happened on a Hasselblad Xpan and a Contax G2, and a Noctilux for $2500.</p>
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<p>Fuji Neopan of any sort is not in production any longer. Any stock of Neopan films is just inventory that Fuji is unwilling to say is now End of Lifed.</p>
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<p>There are some banks in the area.</p>
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<p>I don't think anyone has recommended the use of a tripod. I shoot my m6ttl with available light indoors with an f2.8 and don't have any issues. Ever thought about a tripod?</p>
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<p>I don't think anyone has recommended the use of a tripod. I shoot my m6ttl with available light indoors with an f2.8 and don't have any issues. Ever thought about a tripod?</p>
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<p>In 1986, Hasselblad updated the viewfinder on the SWC/M to the same one that is found on the 903 and 905. A big improvement, but still a pain to work with.<br>
Gary</p>
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<p>If the rewind knob is slightly deformed then it has been dented on impact. This happened to me on a trip to NYC and had it fixed in 24 hours at Nippon Camera Repair at 920 Broadway for $180. I couldn't rewind film, nor could I advance it. This is a common problem with M series cameras since M4-p.<br>
Since getting mine fixed in April, I've noticed that the knob is slightly loose. I will most likely bring it in to get tightened up as I don't want to be without my M again for 24 hours in NYC when I'm only there for 60 hours in total.<br>
I would highly recommend again fixing your Leica yourself unless you have someone that has done the work before in your presence, or you have the money to bring the bag of parts in to someone that can take it from there. Also, having the right tools is very important as well. Have you seen the set of tools that the camera repair people have? You can't get that stuff at Home Depot.<br>
Gary</p>
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<p>I recently took a workshop with DAH and can tell you first hand he is using an M9, and used a GF1 just for fun.</p>
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<p>I use HP5+ in D76 1:1 and am very happy with the results. I find Tri-X a little too muddy in the mid-ranges for tonality.</p>
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<p>I moved from a house with my darkroom in the basement to an area of the country that doesn't have basements. The ground is just too hard and would require lots of dynamite and a lot of upset neighbors.</p>
<p>I bought a house about 8 months ago and drove my wife absolutely nuts. I wouldn't buy a house that didn't have a space for my darkroom. The house we bought had a huge spa bathroom and a small laundry room. My wife hated the spa bathtub so I made the bathroom small and the laundry room larger. Put in plumbing and built a darkroom sink and countertop. Here's a pic of contact prints drying over the sink I built. <a href=" </p>
<p>I hope I never have to go digital with photography.</p>
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<p>I get a similar spot when shooting blue skies with my SWC/M... but only when it is a blue sky. Never any other times. This shows up on the contact print so I know its not in the printing process. All images of blue skies like this have this blotch in the same exact spot. I looked at the lens and it looks clean.</p>
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<p>I recently went to purchase some Neopan400 120 and found that the USA version was out of stock and the Worldwide variety was discontinued. You can check this out at B&H and Adorama. I purchased 100 rolls of Neopan400 in a panic.</p>
<p>Gary</p>
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<p>I recently went to purchase some Neopan400 120 and found that the USA version was out of stock and the Worldwide variety was discontinued. You can check this out at B&H and Adorama. I purchased 100 rolls of Neopan400 in a panic.</p>
<p>Gary</p>
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<p>I shot film because I like the tactile feel of it. I print everything on silver gelatin paper in my darkroom because I like to print. I scan the prints to share ideas and pics with others that I've met on flickr. I work in the computer industry and hate to use computers. I don't own PS or do any PP whatsoever. I'm not a purist, I just hate using a computer. I've got the print and I know what it looks like, putting it on the Internet is so that I can share it with other people.<br>
I agree though, nothing beats the sound of the M6shutter.</p>
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<p>Great suggestions. Thank you all so much.</p>
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<p>Thanks Q.G.! That's what I'm doing and I have noticed that the bayonet must have a pin b/c all of a sudden it seemed to snap into place and stopped rotating. I'm going to keep an eye on it for sure.</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
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<p>I recently purchased a very well maintained (by Hasselblad) SWC/M, vintage 1985. It has the T* Biogon CF 38mm f4.5 lens. I recently purchased a Hasselblad UV filter for it which doesn't really snap in place very tightly, but I'm okay with that for now.<br>
My problem is this: While shooting a few weeks back I noticed that the lens shade had turned 45 degrees and was not perpendicular to the frame so I rotated it back into a vertical position. Only to find out that the lens hood spun around and around and around. I then noticed that the engraved ring on the front of the lens began to spin around as well. The lens shade mounting ring (this is the outmost ring, is held in place by the engraved ring on the front of the lens. The engraved ring came loose and allowed for the lens shade ring to become dislodged and begin to spin. The engraved ring became so loose that it came off the front of the lens completely. I was in a panic so I screwed the engraved ring back in only to find out that the lens shade ring needs to be under the engraved ring. I managed to get the engraved ring off, got the lens shade ring under the engraved ring and tightened it up.<br>
All should be fine, right? Well, the engraved ring still turns and comes loose from time to time. I have to remember to watch it.<br>
Has anybody else run across this issue before? I can't think I'm the first to encounter this. Solutions short of doing a CLA?<br>
Suggestions?</p>
<p>Gary</p>
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<p>I just purchased an SWC/M and included in the package was a lenshade that has two Vivitar 252 flashes taped to it. I haven't tried it yet, but should get to it in a few weeks. I got it from Keith Johnson and his website is <a href="http://www.keithjohnsonphotographs.com">www.keithjohnsonphotographs.com</a> . Look at his shots and see if you determine if he used flash in those.<br>
I am quite curious about how LF used flash in his shots as well, and have noticed the flash unit that is in the Avedon shot of him. Curious.</p>
<p>Gary</p>
using a flash with a hassalblad superwide
in Medium Format
Posted
<p>Jon, <br>
Don't know if you are still pursuing an answer to this, but I purchased an SWC/M from a former Hasselblad rep in NYC that sold cameras to Mr. Friedlander. The kit that I purchased had two Vivitar flash units taped to the squarish lens hood for the CF Biogon, connected into a PC connector star and then into the PC connector. I took it apart since I wasn't using it and wanted a spare lens hood. This might be a solution for you? </p>