ruben_salcedo

Dear forum members,

I need help figuring out the differences between an Ebony SW45 and one listed

on eBay, labeled Ebony New Wide 4x5.

At 1st glance, the Ebony camera labeled

New wide seems to have a true bag bellows,

And limited front extension. Interestingly,

This model has the rear extension accessory

bellows with possible rear vertical tilt.

I am uncertain of several details. This is all

I was able to ascertain from pics. No rear

Rise/fall. As for the SW limited bellows extension of 190mm, rear rise/ fall.

I am aware that Ebony went out of business.

Does anybody have any links with camera

Specifics. I intend to use both sheet film

And roll film up to 6x12cm. I would like to

Use focal lengths between 58mm and ~180mm. I love the high quality simple non

Folding design. Please help.

<p>Hi,<br>

It's been a while since I've posted and the world has changed.<br>

I am looking for a lab who can handle my B&W film (120) and generate tiff files of my work.<br>

Everybody seems to want to spit out jpegs.<br>

That's fine if all my exposures are perfect. <br>

What lab on the west coast (preferably) can handle this sort of workflow without an astronomical cost.</p>

Dear Digital forum.

I am first and foremost, a film photographer.

My output is predominantly B&W and have been scanning my film for watermarking

and easier viewing by my clients as low res tiff files ( sometimes I make

cheaper digital books up to 5x)

I will however, output my color work from film to Chromira prints,

and find myself working with 50mb to 100 mb files and reducing (Sharp bicubic)

to 250-300ppi for final prints.

I want to upgrade from my old problematic PC based system, and would like your

advice on what gently used G5's (beautiful aluminum cases) you might recommend.

I would like to start scanning and printing more Chromira prints on a larger

scale with tiff files up to 200mb.

I will archive to an external drive and have all my work burned to MAMA

silver/gold CD's.

I am seeing dual core macs 1.8-2.0's under a grand.

I will probabaly do most of my work with Aperture.

I am not one for massaging for hours on end (prefer to reshoot)

I think I will team this up with a 23" Plexi glass based gently used

(non glossy) Apple Cini- screen.

I know I will require at least 2 GIGS of ram, what are the best video cards on

these G5's for my needs.

I hope to keep this under $1500.00 gently used including screen.

Thank you all in advance.

A while ago a remember a post that covered an advanced(and expensive)

lens cleaning system comprised of a liquid gel and applicator tab that safely

removed everything from the lens surface by simply peeling it away.

this is accomplished without having to rub the lens surface.

Has anybody used this product or recall the manufacturer.

It is primarily used in high end astronomy applications.

Thank you all in advance.

Ruben

I am looking for a dedicated Macro flash to use with a Nikonos V

Which one of these works better for that purpose and what is your preferred

method to mount the setup for use with extension tubes.

I am purchasing a 105 nikonos flash but it seems a bit bulky and over the top

for tight macro work.

Thank you all in advance.

Ruben

I would like some advice on what to set the iso on the 503CW with Delta 100

and the new Kodak Portra 160.

I will be shooting an event @200pm.

I will be outside in bright sunlight and want to fill flash to soften shadows,

etc..

I will probably set the fstop and shutter off by a 1/2 a stop to allow the

flash to do some work.

This flash is equiped with the parabolic and the bare bulb.

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Thank you all for your time and recommendations.

I may go with the Metz 45.

I really thought the 503cw was the magic bullet, and I'm beginning to realize I could get similar results with my 501cm and the right flash.

I will need to be ready to go by April 14th.

Ruben

I am looking for recommendations on a ttl flash to work with my 503cw.

I want something versatile and under $500.00.

I currently have a 285 hv but I want to take advantage of my cameras ability

to do some of the work for me, hopefully increase the number of keepers.

thank you all in advance.

Ruben

We have a Bronica SQai requiring a replacement of the DC to Dc converter

Is this common and is this easily accessed for DYI.

Thank you all in advance.

Dear Josh,

I own two CB7 Besseler enlargers.

They are essentially an Mxt that is fully automated and truely

a dream to align and index for repeat printing.

They have an oversized condenser and cover beautifullywith no dropoff in

the corners even when you push it.

Ultra precision and available about once a month on ebay.

Unless you are looking for an enlarger you need to move with a forklift, this 200lb. gem's got it all.Get one with the the Micro adjust and voltage stabilizer intact.It is so fine and smooth when your popping in and out to find your sweet focus with your grain magnifier.

I occassionally have to use the old MXT's which seem to hold out for

often times twice the Price as the CB7 and find the MXT archaic

in its handling.

I can't imagine why.

When new they were more than three times the price.

Please promise me you'll look at one of these. you owe it to yourself.

Ruben

I have been utilizing a good outside service for film processing and scanning

of my medium format black and white and color film.(Occasionally I will be

scanning 4x5 sheet film for internet posting so this leaves out the Nikon

cool scanners for versatility.)

They are scanned through Durst/Sigma scanner at a cost of $10.00/roll($6.00 to

develop)for my 6x6 (jpeg .7-1.3mb)and are used to watermark and quickly post

results for clients.

The problem I'm having is turn-around time takes up to two weeks with shipping

and I would like to regain the ability to develop film at home (B&W).I am

concerned that the scanning portion is going to become a time draining process.

How quickly are you able to scan a roll of film with the V750 and how will it

compare in quality to the low resolution Durst/Sigma scans I currently use?

I send out an average of 200 rolls of film a year (80% B&W) and would like

to improve quality, versatility in development, and turn-around time.

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Ruben

Please consider the often overlooked 60mmCB.

As a single lens choice it covers a lot of ground and is very sharp,

relatively light weight and great for people and landscapes.

I have a 60mmCB a 100mm, 120 and a 180 and my single lens choice would be the 60mmCB hands down.

It is equivalent to the much more expensive CFI and can be had often for under $700.00 US.

Good luck with your search.

Ruben

Don't discount the superb 60mmCB.

It is a sharp lens and is great for landscape and street photography.

This particular lens is on par with the CFI version for quite a bit less(can be had mint for under $700.00 U.S.)

For a single lens approach this may prove to be a much more versatile alternative.

I pair it with a 100mm and a 180mm, but if I had to pick one lens for a trip it would be my 60mmCB.

Good luck with your search.

Ruben

Thank you Mr. Henderson.

I was actually thinking about an extra system for an additional shooter.

I have swapped between two lenses the 80 and a 40 with no changes.

I am going to aquire another set of LR44's and see if another set of fresh batteries might be the cure.

The indicator light is intermittent in operation and still the same apparent shutter speed when it does fire, regardless of setting.

I have been playing with a mint condition SQAi and can't seem to get it to

fire its shutter with any regularity and when it does it seems to be at the

same speed.

It is equipped with a prism and I have tested the indicator light and it also

seems to be intermittent.

I cleaned the contact points on the lens and prism/body and would like to know

what kind of voltages I should have on the pins.

I currently own a 501cm and a 503cw and was considering a major change.

I don't think this will be the camera. It really clunks when it does fire

and I just can't get comfortable with this battery dependency.

Help.

Shoot the lens in its native state.

They tend to be really soft, sharpness is not what these cameras are famous for.

From that point you could try scuffing the lens in varying degrees

on a couple more as they are just a bit more expensive than a disposable camera.

I too, find myself using it quite a bit for portraiture work.

It's a bit intimate as far as working range, compared to my 180

but I like to be whisper close for some of my work.

I use it with a pm5 equipped with a hinged magnifier and have "0" focusing issues.

I have recently aquired a 21mm extension tube, and will compare this

to the 120 for similar shooting.

I am trying to improve the color saturation in the background of this image

Need help I want to saturate the lake in the background.

Give the whole background more of a chrome look

You're in California.

A&I in Hollywood

Specialty Photo Lab in Santa Barbara

And Oscars Photo lab in San Francisco.

You will find that Portra scans beautifully.

I send out for c41 process and scan only.

I find the frontier scans at time of process perfect for use as

a proofing tool.

The resolution looks good enough on the screen and I don't mind

sending the clients away with a watermarked 700kb file.

After the selections have been made. you can opt to have A&I

print in there custom lab from your neg. or opt for a higher

resolution scan.

Key word search those labs.

I find it much easier to turn around my B&W work because I print my own. The color just takes longer.

You could opt for a better scan at time of development, but I find

it saves me money to expand my timeline and resubmit the keepers

that i need to enlarge for another scanning.

Staying closer to home will cut down on your timeline

Good luck!!

The other day I through the 32mm extension on my 180mm Sonnar.

I loved the crop that I was able to achieve.

Are there sharpness issues, and how many stops would I lose.

I'm guessing between 1.5-2 stops.

Anybody with experience with this combo.

Thank you all in advance.

Ruben

Alfonso,

Just buy the screen.

I prefer the screen without the split prism.

I had them in both of my Rolleiflex 3.5 f's

For low light it made a big difference in my ability to respond/focus

quicker.

I love the compact size of the Rolleicord vb.

Enjoy your new screen.

Ruben Salcedo

It will get better with practice.

I shoot Hassy but take my Rolleicord Va when I want to keep it simple.

I used it today on a charter fishing boat to photograph my son's first

catch.

It takes me a bit longer to focus but it works and gives me great images.

The Vb has an easily removable screen and can be upgraded to

a Bill Maxwell screen of extraordinary quality.

I had them installed in the past on two of my Rolleiflex's.

It is an option worth considering if you want the best.

Just practice, practice, practice, in all light conditions on your focusing,

Or spend some extra money on a new screen.