paul_mcevoy

PS I've cleaned the jets, they all look good. No banding issues. Alignment seems good too.

Hi there,

 

A friend gave me his old 7600 and I've had a lot of trouble making prints with it. I

had his old 2000p and had pretty good results from it. So I have an idea about

profiles.

 

I download the Atkinson profiles from Epson's site. When I use those, printing out

of photoshop (PS2 and 3, I've tried both) by they time I get to the print preview

from the Epson driver, the picture is heavily green, blues going to flourescent

green. All the colors are off.

 

I'm pretty sure that I'm not double profiling. I have color settings shut off in the

printer driver. I have it set for photoshop to manage colors, profile is 7600

Enhanced Matte paper. Using Dark Black and Matte Black inks.

 

I also tried printing black and white using just the black inks, and that came out

green too. I don't understand that at all.

 

And I've used the regular Epson profile. That provides much better results (no

green issues) but all the shadow detail goes straight to full black. I'm not sure

why it's doing that. That's not apparent if I soft proof the picture (cntrl-y).

 

It's driving me crazy. And ideas? I'd like to get this thing to work. Thanks for

your help.

Steve I must agree. The 5D is just another tool to me. The real inspiration for me wanting to shoot some film is this guy: http://www.joakimeskildsen.com/default.asp?Action=Menu&Item=99 I'm not sure I can get pictures that look like that with digital. Maybe I can, but it'd be interesting to see if my pictures lack the same thing with digital and film. He is a total master of available light, and I think his pictures would be beautiful in whatever format he shot them.

Thanks for the answers so far...much appreciated. Is there much of an optical difference between the different brands? I feel like Hassy has a kind of "look" but not sure...maybe it's because that's what a lot of the medium format I've seen is shot on.

I'm interested in getting a medium format camera. I have a Canon 5d and love

what it can do but I'd like to shoot some color film, and see what I can do

with it. I feel like digital is missing some warmth and I-don't-know-whatness

and wondering if I can get the look I want with film or not.

 

I'm wondering what the best buy on an older MF camera is. My interest is in

photojournalism and portraiture. I'd consider a rangefinder, Hassy, or TLR.

I guess my priorities would be cost, ease of use (as in speed) and optical

quality, in that order.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks

Paul

 

 

paulmcevoy.net

Hi Dave,

 

Will that Domke wrap cover the 5d? Just wondering what kind of camera you are covering that with. That looks about perfect. Is there much padding to it?

 

Thanks

Paul

Hi there,

 

I'm taking a 1 month hitchhiking/backpacking trip in Canada. I want to take my

5d and one prime lens (probably the 50 f1.4). I'm looking for something I can

wrap my camera in and put it in my backpack. I thought I've seen camera wraps

before but now I can't find anything. I'm hoping it will be something compact

that will offer good shock absorbtion.

 

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

Thanks

Paul

Hi There,

 

I'm building a new computer and just wondering, with a PC...does it matter what

kind of video card you use? If you use some sort of onboard video from your

motherboard, is there any problem with that? It seems like most aftermarket

video cards are geared towards gamers. Not sure if it's worth putting any money

into that.

 

Thanks

Paul

I'm having a problem and I'm not sure what the deal is. When I do a color

correction in Digital Photo Professional, export as a tiff and then load it into

photoshop, the colors are significantly different in Photoshop. I keep the

embeddded profile in PS, so I'm not sure what is happening. Colors are usually

desaturated and overly red.

 

I'm not sure what the problem is. I'm assuming that the image from DPP and

Photoshop should look identical, side by side. I've noticed this with Capture

One Pro also.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm using an IBM Thinkpad T40 calibrated

with a spider.

 

All the best

Paul

I'm looking to process 5 rolls of color negative film that I shot. I'd like low

res scans for printing 4x6 and a contact sheet. I know I can get this done

cheeply at the drug store but the pictures are important to me and are things

that I might want to publish someday, but right now I'd like to just make some

small prints to give to the subjects.

 

Any ideas of a place that would do this for a reasonable price, changes their

chemicals and is not going to scratch my negs? I'm not in a hurry, mail order

is fine. I'm in Maine, if that helps.

 

Thanks for your help

Paul

two things

 

1. You have a lot of white in that shot. I would think it would have balanced out with the subject, but it might be getting too much light reflected at the camera, so you may have to +1 ON THE FLASH (important to know that if you +1 on the camera it doesn't change the flash).

 

2. The other really important thing to remember, and this is not directly related to your question, but if you are using the flash as the main light source, i.e. you are taking a normal flash exposure, you want to be in manual mode. Being in aperture mode in a dark room will give you a really long exposure and you will get a lot more blur. Decide how fast you want to take the shot (which regulates how much ambient light will be in the picture), set that shutter speed, pick a correct aperture, usually somewhere between wide open and f8, and the TTL should take care of the exposure for you.

 

Hope that helps and makes some sense. Flash can take a while to understand and then when you do it's super easy.

I've heard the 18-35 Tamron is a great lens and much cheaper than either Canon lens. Just a thought.

Hi Steve,

 

White House does Lightjet (photographic) printing. The quality is pretty good but I'm definitely looking for inkjet prints.

 

Thanks

Paul

Hi out there,

 

I need to get multiple copies of a panoramic print made up. It's 7x21 inches.

Any suggestions? It seems really hard to find places that do affordable inkjet

printing on the web.

 

Thanks

Paul

Also the crop factor may be some difference...for a given frame, the flash has to work...what?...1.6 times harder? I'm not good with math, but it will be quite a bit difference.

Hi there,

 

As a personal project, I took a group portrait of 70 traditional musicians

yesterday. It was the end of about 5 months of work and it ended up going

pretty smoothly. The picture looks great.

 

I'm trying to figure out a pricing system for prints. I'd like to make it

available to the musicians in the picture for a reasonable price, but I have no

idea how much that is. I really appreciate them being in the picture, and I

don't want to overcharge them, but also they are probably going to be the source

of most of my sales of the picture, so I would like to make something for my effort.

 

Any ideas about how much to charge them? Also can anyone suggest a place to get

inkjet prints made up somewhat affordably?

 

I'm pretty new to the idea of selling my stuff, and I think this situation is a

little different, so I'd really appreciate any advice.

 

Thanks

Paul

note: I was quoting Nick in the first part of the last post. Sorry for the confusion.

Ken, I do not like the idea of ISO 400. Ok, the 20D has low noise, but when I cary a top-of-the-line flash I expect to use ISO 100 or 200.

 

 

Nick, I think you are a little confused. Top of the line flash or not, it's still a battery powered flash. You are not going to be able to shoot at ISO 100 and expect to use any kind of higher f-stop and/or expect your batteries to last. The flash is very versatile, but its power relative to a studio strobe is teensy weensy.

 

Top of the line or not, you have to shoot at the ISO setting that the flash can provide enough light for fot the apeture you are using. I've been shooting a lot with available light and ISO 1600 and then running the results through Noise Ninja and I'm very satisfied with the results. If your goal is to shoot ISO 100 all the time, you should look into getting a studio strobe from Alien Bees or something like that.

 

http://www.letsstraightenitout.net/index.php?showimage=215

http://www.letsstraightenitout.net/index.php?showimage=213

As to my understanding, the above is correct. As long as you are in low light you should be able to shoot on most any aperture/shutter speed combination, giving you complete control of how much blur you get, how much ambient light you want to get, etc.

 

The other setting I use a lot is to be in aperture priority and set the flash at -1 2/3. That is a great fill flash setting and if you want to lower the contrast in photos taken in good light, you can walk around with the flash on your camera all day.

 

I've never used P mode...I should try it.

Hey there,

 

I was wondering if anyone can suggest a good case for my digital rebel

xt, 17-85 IS and 585 flash? I have a nic etamrac backpack that I can

fit a lot of stuff in, but I want something that I wouldn't mind

carrying around to work or a party. Small, light and easily accesible

are a priority, with good protection for the camera. A place for the

flash and a paperback would be good too.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks

Paul McEvoy

I bought a Minolta Flash Meter V a while ago and love the flash meter

settings (particularly the non cord setting which is amazingly

useful). I'm studying Zone now and need a spot meter. I'm not sure

if I should sell the Minolta and buy a Sekonic or else get a pentax

spotmeter to use with it, or get the Spot attachment and just keep it.

 

Money is really tight and I will not be able to afford the Sekonic

anytime soon. Has anyone much experience with the Minolta spot

attachment?

 

Thanks

Paul

and the fact that I am documenting the record collection of a friend holds no water whatsoever?

 

I'm just asking, but it seems like there should be some protection for photographing the contents of your own home? Or someone else's with their permission?

 

Paul

oops, the linked image is the wrong one, please look at the attachment or this one:

http://www.letsstraightenitout.net/index.php?showimage=140

 

Thanks!

Paul

I shot this last night of a friend's record collection and would like

to work on a series of them. I'm wondering if there are any copyright

issues for a picture like this. I feel like it would be ok to

photograph something copyrighted and sell it in certain situations

(like a McDonald's sign in a street picture-although I could be wrong

about that), but I'm not sure about this.

 

http://www.letsstraightenitout.net/index.php?showimage=143

 

Thanks for your help with this.

 

Paul<div></div>

Hey Kimberley,

 

Just wondering, why 2 lenses of similar apertures and focal lengths? I'm just trying to figure out what people usually carry.

 

Thanks

Paul