nickolystephens

<p>Both<br>

Here is an example of what I have: Two internal SATA 1TB disks configured in RAID 1 - Then I have an external RAID 1 (again 1TB) device as my main backup. I use SuperDuper to clone the internals to the external.</p>

<p>I would predict that you would be very unhappy with the speed of an external as a working disk unless it was connected via SATA.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>It also depends on the format 6x6 or 6/4.5 or 6x7</p>

<p>I think 6/45 lends itself more to a full length portrait</p>

<p>If you decide to go the 645 route - take a look at the Mamiya 645e<br>

It's the less expensive version of the 645 systems - integrated back - integrated center weighted metering but flash sinc a slow 60th. If you need faster then consider something with a leaf shutter</p>

I have been developing my own 120 and 35 for years - albeit I usually shoot

Tri-X and the like.

I recently test shot a roll of Retro 400 and followed my usual processes and

found that after drying that the film had curled itself nearly into a tube - not

the direction that the film is rolled onto the spools but edge to edge so that I

have a 120 length tube of exposed film.

I re-wet the film which restored the flatness and re-hung it with more weight on

the ends with no improvement.

Any suggestions?

Arne

If your host uses cpanel - there is a hotlink protection function built into cpanel - from there you can specify allowed sites and not-allowed sites.

Arne

www.shutterview.ca

I think that the reference here is to cross-processing.

An example of an image would be this...

http://www.shutterview.ca/article/307/contemplate

For some reason - XP will not self discover the SCSI - mine never did. I followed these steps:

</br></br>

1. Everything off.</br>

2. PC ONLY on and installed the Nikon Software.</br>

3. Rebooted the PC.</br>

4. Turned off the PC.</br>

5. Turn on the LS2000 without any of the film holders inserted.</br>

6. Boot the PC</br>

7. Start the Nion Scanning software and wait for it to completely open.</br>

8. Insert the filmholder of choice and start scanning.</br>

</br></br>

Note: Whenever I need to scan I need to steps 4 to 8 or I get errors.

</br>

I have the scsi cable plugged into the port on the back of the scanner that is NOT nearest the power cable - </br>

Hope that helps.

In Vancouver THE ONLY place to go is

http://www.vancam.com/

I've got about 8 rolls of 120 - expired and cooled if you're interested.

Arne

I've been personally down that route and did exactly what was suggested above and I ended up starting off with an 645e - while cheaper and without a removable film back - it's internal metering system is spot on - and of course I love the glass.

I will eventually move to the 645 Pro series - but in the meantime the 645e has me completely satisfied.

I'm looking for any advice on a BW film that handles long (can you say

5 minutes) exposures well -

Also some advice on dealing with the associated challenges of

repricocity in development would be great.

Many thanks

I use Ilfotec HC, which is essentiall equiv. to HC-110, and I use the following method.

I take the One Litre of syrup and distribute it into 4 250ml containers - easily obtained from your local pharmacy.

Blow canned air gently into the top of three of the filled 250ml containers - to remove O2 and replace it with what is in the can - and seal the 250 bottles.

Take the 4th 250ml bottle and empty it into the developer container - let it hang upside down for a bit. Then refill the 250ml container 3 times - shake alot each time - and empty these into the developer container. MIX.

What you now have is 1 litre of stock. To get to dilution "B" working solution - do this.

For one roll of 35mm - use a syringe and extract 50ml of stock and then mix in 350ml of water. This deliver 400ml of "B"

For one roll of 120 - extract 75ml of stock and 525ml of water to get 600ml of "B".

I've tried the "True One Shot" method - and measuring funky odd amounts of goopy syrup just never worked for me.

BTW - I've found that gently blowing canned air and then sealing the stock bottle has been an effective way to slow the "browning" of my developer.

I agree with the comment that you can run them through the carry on scanners without any trouble. Recently I went on a trip - 8 passes through the security scanners with undeveloped film - some of it was TMax3200 and all of it was undeveloped.

No issues with image or fogging at all.

my2cents....

I love my Mamiya 645e kit - Comes with a razor sharp 80mm - and center weighted metering that is bang on. Yah - I know it does not have an interchangable back - but that just keep me from spending money on backs!

These kits have been seen on eBay for a decent price.

Takes all the Mamiya 645 lenses and 120 and 220 inserts.

I think that the SQAi is what you want to find.

Here is a link to darn near everything you want to know.

http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/gbronica.html

THe close up - and wide angle attachments come with in two parts - one for the taking lens and one for the viewing lens. If you are going to buy on ebay make sure that it is a close up for the TLR - there are also close up lenses for the slr yashica models listed on ebay.

If you are going to operate the self timer function - the red lever below the taking lens - you MUST ensure that yellow dot lever - (on the right side of the camera as you are looking into the lens and midway between the taking and viewing) that it is in the "X" position.

Attempting to operate the timer lever while in the "M" position can damage the shutter.

(info taken from my 124G manual)

For black and white I prefer TMax 400

For colour I prefer NPH

As long as there are film cameras in the population there will be film to be had. I have a neighbor with a 1969 Chevy Camaro SS - he just bought "BRAND NEW" headers .....

:)

Shoot Film!