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fk319

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Posts posted by fk319

  1. I have two young children and live in the country, so there have been many missed photos. But I must say that many of the moments, I just put the camera away and enjoy them with my wife.

     

    That said, my large dog came in last winter after playing in the streem in front of the house. She had a sheet of ice all over her and my wife had to blow dry our dog before she came into the house. I still tease my wife about not taking a picture first.

  2. <center><img

    src=http://frank.kujawski.org/blog/1999/Dec/19/Dam/large/DSCN2069.JPG>

    <br>Austin Dam, PA

    <br>the dam was placed backwords

    </center>

  3. I must be missing something here. My 50/1.8 has a macro of 1:7. If your object is 7 times larger than your sensor, then why would you need a macro?

     

    I understand that if taking a picture of coins or a flower, a macro is needed, but this case it is "table top product/food", is a macro really needed?

  4. I do not care much for the first one, I find the shadows take to much from the pictures.

     

    I do like the second one, if the three kids, I "see" more of the action of the game.

  5. I have a sigma 12-24, nikon 18-70, nikon 24-120, nikon 50, nikon 70-300. I am happy with all of them, but wish to replace the telephoto side. There are lenses that are 11x and 12x, but personaly I would stay away from them. These lenses are to slow, and I seldom am in a position where I would miss the shot if I changed lenses.

     

    I presume that your price range is for lenses only and not lens and D200. The 18-70 is more of an indoor normal zoom lens and the 24-120 is more of an outdoor zoom lens. I would probably pick one or the other. Also I would get a wide angle, 12-24 or 10-20, I have not seen the latter, but may be the better one. Finaly I would pick up some primes, 50/1.8 is a given, but something in the 20's that is at least 1.8 would be great, for a good low light wide angle lens.

     

    From what you said, you really dont need a telephoto. The Nikon 70-300 at about $125, would fill the hole, if you just needed something. (My next lens is a telephoto, I just have not found the one I want yet.)

     

    -- Frank

  6. I noticed two things of interest, most of the lenses used seem to be $$$ lenses and about half the shots where unexpected, either looking for something else or did not have the camera at the moment.

     

    At the very least, I should learn to always be ready for the unexpected. Thanks for sharing....

  7. The lens on the D50 is an excelent example of a crapy lens that Nikon makes. The lens on a D70 is an example of a quality lens. The D50 lens seems to be about $100 and the D70 is $350. (When I say crappy lens, let me be clear, that it took me several months, hundreds of rolls of film, to be able tell the difference between and crappy and a good lens. There are so many little things to learn, like hold the camera still when taking a picture.)

     

    I like the extra control of the D70, ie I can take a bad picture if I try hard enough. My first digital camera, Nikon coolpix 950, lacked many of these features.

     

    One suggestion is get a D50, and add quality lenses over time. At some point you can replace the D50 with a newer model and all your lenses should work.

     

    Enjoy, --Frank

  8. G does not refer to budget, but no apature ring

    http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00ENOB

     

    Many young sales people confuse D & G as lens quality, but it is mechnical definition. It is a nice question to get a feel for the intellengents, I mean experience, of whom you are talking to.

     

    DX, is about 2/3 full frame, actually I have some DX lenses that work on my 35 mm film camera just fine, just not zoomed all the way out. One more note on DX lenses, they are designed to work with a digital sensor. Many older lenses have the last lens as flat. This plays havoc with a flat sensor that has a mirror finish, aka ghosting.

     

    ED is glass quality, my first two lenses where not ED, but every one since then has been, or DG from sigma. I have replace my first two lenses, because my wife let me go into the camera shop all alone a couple of times.

     

    another link: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/nikortek.htm

  9. I also bought a P-2000. It is an 40 GB, and the P-4000 is an 80GB. If you think you will ever need to shoot more than the total number of CF or SD cards, it is a must. I have 2 CF cards, and three times I have shot more than that. Once was on vacation, shoot about ~10 cards and the other was on a weekend trip and both times shot ~3 cards. The viewer is great. It is NOT photo shop, just a viewer. you can organize pictures in the field, which is great. There are some naming issues, it is basicly stupid when moving and copying files. it renames the files and likes to copy files, so I have dups in my temp area. This is anoying, but you learn to work around it.

     

    For field storage, it is probably the best there is, or was last year when I bought mine. (Coolwalker was not out and apple stuff was not quite available.)

     

    I really dont use mine much, but I always have it with me, and I loving having it when I need it. It also plays audio and video.

     

    so, if it is on your short list, it is good to get.

     

     

    --Frank

  10. What I did, was I used slower drives. 7.5k rpm, is not that much slower than 10k rpm. Also I partitioned my 2 disks at about 10%/90% each. The 10% held things like the os on one and my personal stuff on the other 10% disk. the 90%'s I stripped together and get my speed when I need it, and huge storage space.

     

    You have lots of options, how important is redundancy? Reliability? on a stripped drive array, one drive down and you are, well you know. raid 5 is good, but slow on the write, probably not YOUR best solution. perhaps a raid 5 for your data, and a stripped array for your work space. (Take say 6 drives, partition it 20%/80%, strip the 20% together and raid 5 the 80%. the 80% storage space will survive a drive failure and the 20%, well it should be cleaned every night. 20% may be a bit much, maybe you only need 5%, but you get the idea.)

     

    Am I confusing you any?

  11. My brother-in-law was laid off from his job, recieved a nice severence package and sold his his house quickly. As such, he decided to take his family on a 48 state trip. Needless to say after 3 months in the car with the family, the were ready to kill each other. In the beginning it was a lot of fun, but in the end, it was more routine and they wished they had a small area to cover and see things more in depth.

     

    So my question to you is, 12 months is a long time. Do you really want to see the world? or would just one country be enough, so that you can really get the backroad stuff.

     

    Have a great trip.

  12. JD, per your drawing, you would be better off if your cam drove a spring loaded piston. this is the way grain used to be broken up. the cam would push up a heave block, then when the cam moves out of the way the block would drop. there are cheap clock units, they go in picutures and cermic things. many of which have a second hand that could be use for an electrical contact to drive a solionad. more brainstorms, perhaps an idea will develop for you.
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