david_parmet1

Ed,

 

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I didn't find the comment in question - regarding the grainy

negatives - very funny. I found it obnoxious and I'm from New

York where 'F**k you' is considered a formal greeting.

 

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Please keep doing what you are doing. We all know it's a

thankless task (thank you thank you) but the alternative - an

unmoderated free-for-all - is too ugly to contemplate.

TriX at 320 in Rodinal 1:25 for 8 minutes.

 

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Grain the size of golf balls.

I think I've solved my problem. The dark marks were from

over-agitation. Basically with two 120 reels in there there is still

enough room for them to move around when I aggitate leading

the bottom reel to get too much aggitation.

 

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I ran a test with two reels and a 35mm reel in there to hold them

tight. I filled the tank up to the top and developed normally. No

staining.

 

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You learn something new every day....

Ted - I use Ilford Rapid Fixer mixed 1:4 and I don't reuse it. I

normally fix for 4 minutes followed by two minutes under running

water, a minute in PermaWash and another two minutes rinse

followed by a minute in LPN. I use Hewes stainless steel reels

and I rinse them after every use.

 

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Micheal - I thought so at first but it doesn't look like light leaks

and this is the second time it's happened.

 

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Like I said, I've never seen this before.

This problem cropped up only a week ago and it only happens

when I develop two 120 rolls in a large stainless steel tank. I've

done this before dozens of time with no problem but only last

week I noticed on the bottom roll dark patches running parallel

to the bottom edge of the roll relative to how it rests in the tank.

 

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The patch seems darker on the part of the negative that sits on

the outer part of the reel and less apparent on the part that's

further in the middle of the reel.

 

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Just for the record, when developing two rolls of 120 I mix the

delveper and pour it into the empty tank - turn off the lights and

roll the film onto the reels -- slowly lower the reels into the tank --

turn on the timer and start aggitating. When the developer is

finished I turn off the lights again -- pour out the developer and

hold the tank under running water for two minutes allowing for

five complete water changes before pouring in the fixer and

turning the lights back on.

 

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Any ideas on what's causing these patches? Could it be

because I'm not using an acid stop bath?

I've ordered it from Calumet. They have to ship it ground but trust

me, it's worth the wait. Your negatives will be so sharp you can

shave with them.

Volker, you really need to drop it. Stop emailing me and using

me as your whipping boy on this forum.

 

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For what it's worth I agree with Ed - it's his forum and he's been

running it as he sees fit and for what it's worth I'm very very

grateful to him for taking the reigns of BW world.

 

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Considering his depth of knowledge and experience on the

subject of black and white photography he's got the right and the

obligation to make judgement calls on the appropriateness of

posts to this forum.

 

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Now please just drop it. And please don't email me with silly

consipracy theories about Ed and Bergger.

Calm down Volker. Throwing words like 'censorship' around is

absurd. This is a privately owned and operated forum and you

made an assertion about a company that you had no basis in

fact to support. Ed was obligated to delete it.

Here's what I've found so far...

 

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In Rodinal 1-50 I'm getting an EI of 200. The time given by

Bergger (12 minutes) might be too short but I'm not done testing.

 

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12 minutes might end up being my N-1 time.

If your shadows are coming out right but your highlights are blown

out you might be giving the negatives too much development. Try

reducing your time by 20-30% and see what that does for them.

I've been playing with Bergger BRF200 in 120 format in HC110.

All I can say for the moment is that my EI is around 50. I'd be

curious to hear what others have found.

Personally I can't answer for anyone else but myself -- I normally present my 6x6 negatives as square enlargements. In other words I don't crop. But it's nice to know I have some room to crop and still have the final image look 'right', ie - proportioned as someone would expect a photograph to be.

I know this question has been asked and answered before but I can't seem to find the answer.

 

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What's the minimum amount of Rodinal necessary for roll film development? I'm diluting 1:75 and 1:100 for 120 film. My tank holds 500ml so that would leave me with either 7.5ml or 5ml of the juice. Is that enough? Should I use a larger tank?

 

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thanks

 

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david

What a great combination! Following up on the questions below I tried some HP5 rated at 800 in Diafine. I'm looking at some prints right now and I'm amazed at how nice they turned out. The grain is no more or less than I would have expected with a mid-speed film but it's super sharp, the tones are nice and where I want them and the highlights are perfect.

 

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Next project is to try some Tri-X at 1600.

 

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Yes, I recommend Diafine!

currently the only source I know of is the veggie drawer of my

fridge - which doesn't please my wife one bit.

 

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APX25 is gone off the market.

Does anyone have enough experience with the new Bergger roll films that they care to share with the class? I just got a pile of 120 and I'm in the middle of speed testing them now.

 

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My first impression is that the given EI and time for development in HC110 dil B is too high and too long.

a little late I know but if anyone is interested...

EI 80. HC110 diluted 1:14 for 8 minutes. Aggitate for the first 30

secs and twice every thirty seconds afterwards.

 

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beautiful stuff.

Heh.. I hope I didn't come off to huffy.

 

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But to your point Hubert... lot's of folk who shoot color swear by

Fuji Velvia. I've used it but now I pretty much only shoot b/w

except for the odd roll of Porta when I taking pictures of my kid.

I've been getting wonderful results using Ilford FP4+ rated at 80

in PMK. In 120 I've been experimenting with Verichrome Pan and

Bergger 200 but it's too early to tell. Lot's of folks, myself

included, love the late lamented Agfa APX25 in Rodinal.

um... what's this forum called again?

 

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that being said my favorite film for nature is APX 25 or Ilford FP4+

rated at 50. you do consider black, gray and white to be colors,

don't you?

John

 

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It's a compliment. It looks like it was a sunny day and yet the

highlights are just right. And technical mumbo jumbo aside - it's a

nice picture. There's lots to look at and lots going on.

 

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-david

I'm interested in this question also - I often shoot indoors under

far from the best lighting conditions. I've used Delta 3200 at 800

in HC110 dil B and I like the results.

 

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I've been curious about pushing Tri-X with diafine. John - if your

results are typical I'm just going to have to try it.

In Gordon H's book of Pyro he gives times and suggested EIs for

Tri-X but it isn't clear if he's refering to the 35mm Tri-X or Tri-X Pro

or Tri-X Pan.

 

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Does anyone know which specific emulsion he's refering to and

does anyone know of a good starting point for Tri-X Pro 120?

 

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Thanks

 

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david

I normally use 5ml syrup to 500ml water for one 120 roll of APX 25.

Gives me a nice full range of tones.

EI 50... Perceptol 1:1 12 minutes aggitate first 30 secs and every 30

secs thereafter... for diffusion enlarger