hudsonphotos

The F100 is my favorite camera (and I own a F5 and N90s). Did you get the grip for it?

 

I've never changed the custom settings on mine.

There's simply no point in medium format cameras anymore. Digital is better in commerical and 35mm film is exceptionally good for portrait work.

"what more could you possibly want out of a film body that the F5 doesn't have?"

 

I want the focusing indicators to light up in red like the F100 does. I want it to be lighter than it is now. More like the F100. I want it to focus as fast in low light as the F100 does. Basically they should just change the name of the F100 to F5.

I would suggest not shooting at 800 iso if you want sharpness. Although the image is still sharp as "in focus" at 800 iso the grain you will see won't match the sharpness of a slowner film.

 

I would recommend Kodak Tmax 100 or Agfa 100 b/w film. Keep the lens about f4 or 5.6 and the camera on a tripod if you want the most sharpness possible.

If they can't afford to pay you for standard film and processing then I wouldn't bother. (And they're not financially ready to get married!)

The N80s are capable of low light/night photgraphy, but only on manual focus. You might also ask at http://www.nikonians.org

True you can use the 1.8 lens in low light, but are you really going to shoot mountains at f1.8?

I belong to a camera club because they give me 24/7 access to a studio/changing room, darkroom, library, computer workstations, and much more.

 

They also have permanent space in several local galleries/coffee houses and it's easier to get my work shown through them than approaching galleries on my own.

 

I won't enter the competitions, because I am my own judge!

The Kodak site has the box and canister labels for both the new and old TriX and TMAX 3200.

A friend wants to know what flash to get for his Yashica FX2?

There are tons of internet forums that are useful in connecting models and photographers. For a complete list see <A HREF="http://www.njworkshops.com/forums.htm">Forum List</A><BR>

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Also there are sites where models and photographers can get listed for free. You can search for models and photograpers by state or country. Try <A HREF="http://www.net-model.com">Net Model</A> or <A HREF="http://www.onemodelplace.com">One Model Place</A>

I'd go with the Sigma. You probably wont sell enough photos with the Nikkor fisheye to justify they price they want for it. I use several Sigma lenses professionally (17-35 2.8/4 and 24-70 2.8, 28-105 2.8/4) and have no problems with quality or sharpness.

If I had $500 I'd buy either:

 

1) Lots of film and batteries

 

2) a new film scanner

 

3) a 35mm prime lens

 

4) another lens in the 24-70 range

 

5) lots of enlargements at the lab

 

6) mats and frames

 

7) another flash

 

or

 

8) put it in the bank to go with my "digital SLR" fund!

There's no logical reasoning to support his statement that Nikon will take a better portrait than a Canon. Image quality is all in the user anyway, unless you have a bad lens, and Canon doesn't make any. Any Canon camera will equal a Nikon in terms of build and quality. And I'm a Nikon shooter!

I bought the 645e rapid wind kit several months ago but I wish I had put the money towards a digital SLR.

 

With that being said, the 645e kit is the best $700 medium format camera and lens kit available today in my opinion.

How much is the shipping or handling charge? We thought Dell was giving us a good price on a computer and then they hit us with a $100 handling charge!

"Try resetting the camera's little electronic brain by turning it on, withdrawing the batteries and letting it run out of juice after 20 minutes or so. Then turn it off, reinsert the batteries and turn it on. This is the Nikon equivalent of the "reboot" that computer help desks always put you through."

 

I didn't know about this. Thanks for sharing that.

"I assume that was done under warranty so don't sweat it."

 

I think he said that both repairs were after the one year waranty period.

 

Since you're only shooting around 83 rolls of film per year I would spend $500-$600 on a used Nikon F100 on ebay.

Regardless of the photography you're doing you can't go wrong with a wide angle, normal, and telephoto (or long zoom) lens. You've got the normal and longer lengths covered so your next best best is to get a wide angle lens. I am a fan of Sigma lenses. They make a 28-105 f2.8/4 that sells for less than $200 if I remember correctly. It is a great lens and can be used in lower light.

Congrats on your venture into photography! I have a lot of faith in Sigma lenses for Nikon mounts. Sigma makes a great 17-35 lens for under $400. I don't know if the D100 has a magnification factor of 1.5 ro 1.6 but the Sigma 17-35 on a D100 will be around 25-52. This would be a nice compliment to your 50mm 1.4 which is about a 75mm on a D100. With this wide angle lens and you 50 (75) lens you'd have enough coverage to find out what kind of phootgraphy you like before you start investing thousands of dollars in new lenses.

 

Also, don't forget to put the camera in manual mode and learn the basics of photography!

You're going to have to like the grain if you're shooting black & white with no flash. If it was me I'd use a wide angle lens and Kodak or Ilford 3200 @ 1600.

"Sure, the price will drop, but if you wait for prices to stop dropping you'll never buy anything."

 

That's an excellent point. It's just like computers. Get what you need to do the job. There will always be something better coming out and older units selling for less. But, if you keep waiting for prices to drop on current models and waiting for the next model to come out, you will never have a computer!

 

If 6 megapixels will do the job then go for it!

"in Black and White photography, a blue filter will give "more pleasing" flesh tones. Is this because many skin blemishes have a reddish component to their coloration, and blue filters block red, making some blemishes less noticeable?"

 

There's no color in black & white so that wouldn't have anything to do with it. Some people use a Tiffen Green filter to smooth out contract on people (and scenics).

 

For color I like the Tiffen 812 warming filter. If using print film tell your lab not to adjust for the filter or else they'll cover up the gold tone with more blue and you won't get any filter effect. The 812 works great with slide film where the lab can't screw with what you originally intended to do.

 

Have fun!

What's a Nicon?

Don't feed the trolls people.