gmc

Adonis,

Try this web site. It has Silver....

 

Great stuff. Id say this is the one you are looking for.

 

http://www.celluloidandsilver.com

I think a master could take any film, developer combination and get the best possible results. I bet the film used would depend on the circumstances with a true master. BTW, what exactly are the criteria for being a master? I could be one and not know it.... Id like to see some of the greats pictures shuffled up in a pile with some ordinary good photographers for someone to separate without knowing who the photographer really is. Art is a very subjective thing.

You may find some of these helpful.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=009Jfc&unified_p=1

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=009N3e&unified_p=1

 

http://www.photo.net/learn/darkroom/black-and-white-intro

I think what we have here is a photo.neter on some kind of information overload. My recommendations would be to slowly step away from your computer, gently hit the power button, turn on your television. I?d recommend at least 3 episodes of your favorite sitcom (no agitation), come back and try again.

 

Hope this helps.

I have both styles, older and new. Don't think it's necessary for either. Paterson for some reason recommends it on the multi-style tanks. No worry.

Thanks Jim. That was big help. I'll try a few more rolls and see what happens.

Wonder who the German firm would be in the speculated buy out? Very last part of the article...

I apologize if this has already been posted. What I'm looking for is

the best arrangement for Plus-X 125(PX) souped in Extol. The Massive

Dev. Chart recommends a time of 6.25 1:1 @ asa 125-250 20C. Kodak's

recommended time for the new emulsion is 8 1/4 at normal speed 1:1 @

20C. I use a small single reel Paterson tank, so the small tank

development times would apply. What combination would be the best

for portrait type pictures? I would like to hear what others are

using; I use mainly 120-format film.

 

Thanks,

Greg

Thanks Johannes. I will attempt to dig a little deeper and hopefully its something I can easily fix. I appreciate our response and I will report back with my findings. The back shows almost no signs of use.

I have a 120 film back for a Bronica SQ-Ai that rolls to the end of

a brand new roll of film without stopping for the first exposure. I

am new to Bronica so I don't know hardly how to explain this. I have

other film backs that stop at the first exposure, #1 indexes into

the window and the crank stops. This back will completely roll up a

fresh roll to the end. Is this issue simple to resolve or does it

need tech. help. Doesn't appear to have much use....Hope I've

explained this clear enough for some direction here...

 

TIA

Greg

Yes, I am taking Ron up on his offer. Ron has already been a big help and I appreciate the other responses as well. I plan to try this again with a different approach as Ron has instructed. Also using different film & developer.

 

Thanks guys for taking the time to share your knowledge & experience.

 

Greg

30% reduced (enlarging)exposure time on the 11 min. snip.

Prints

I thought I?d post this for what it?s worth. I haven?t been at all

satisfied with the results of my newfound film-developing hobby so I

thought I?d dig in a little deeper and start with a controlled test

on the effects of developing times with 100 speed TMX 120 film.

Forget push/ pull and so on, this is by Kodak?s normal developing

times at normal film speed. As a beginner it seems that 1-degree

here and 1 degree there always has a different time attached. So

just how critical is time, say at 30-second intervals? I spent

probably too much time doing this and I?m sure there?s many easier

ways, but this is what I did:

 

Walk out in the back yard. Set the old tripod up on the first thing

I see. There it is, poplar tree in the shade with a high contrast

background. Look up in the sky make sure no clouds are around to

mess with the lighting. Snap off 12 frames (quickly) with the SQ-Ai

and off to the dark room. Cut the film (TMX 100) in four sections.

Mix my Extol 1:1 (total of 18 ounces of developer, sorry don?t do

ml) and check the temperature. Temperature is at 69 degrees (sorry,

don?t do Celsius). Check Kodak?s new film emulsion time; split the

difference between the recommended time for 68 deg. & 70 degrees,

which calculated to 9 mins. First strip at 9 mins., second strip at

9.50 and up to 11 mins at 30 second intervals using 5 inversions of

agitation every 30 seconds. I used the same film developer with all

4 trials. I actually had a few inches of film left only snipping

enough to make sure of at least one complete frame per trial.

 

I will try to post the scanned results of the negatives as well as

the final prints. I used the 9 min. snip for a test strip then run

the other 3 negatives through the enlarger without changing

anything. Then took 30 % of the exposure time off the 11 min. snip

to end up back where I started on the 9.0 min print (now I did loose

some background).

 

I think everyone will notice a dramatic shift from the 9.0 snip to

the 9.50, more so than the other internals and it is possible that I

goofed up on the time setting. And even if I did, there is still

little difference in the 9.5 on up to the 11.0 min snips. So

basically, I could have mistakenly dev. an entire roll at say 10

minutes and naturally compensated for it after developing my test

strip. A couple of seconds less worth of enlarging exposure time.

What am I missing? Somebody get me straight here. At this point, I

would not hesitate throwing a roll of TMX 100 in the same soup bowl

with a roll of Plus-X with only a 45 second difference in developing

time.

 

Please, somebody dig me out of this before I get in trouble....

Could anyone tell me what these specs are in my final print? I?ve

attached an example of what I?m talking about. It?s most noticeable

in windows and street in front of the museum. These specs are

throughout all the pictures that I took yesterday. I?m new to film

developing and haven?t run across this yet. I?ve had good results up

to this point. Here?s the process in which it was developed:

- Xtol (1:1 with 100ml stock) for 7 ? mins. @ 20 C.

- Stopped with Ilfostop, 15 secs @20 C.

- Fixed for 5 mins. @ 20 C. with Kodak Fixer

- Prints developed in Dektol @ 20 C. 1 min.

- Same Stop method

- Fixed for 2 mins. 20 C. (I keep film & print fixer separate)

 

T.I.A.

gmc<div></div>

Thanks for the response guys. I use 120-film shooting 6x6 (2 -1/4 sq.) neg. I have a few 35mm cameras but would never consider enlarging any of the pictures over 5x7. I've shot a lot of 120 film, but never dev. it.

Thanks,

gmc

Just a quick question on a grainy enlargement I made. Being totally

new to film developing, my first neg. turned out a bit flat with a

high degree of contrast. The film I'm using is 125PX (plus-x) and my

first 11x14 picture seemed to be grainy with still a good degree of

sharpness. The 8x10 looked much better. Am I asking too much from

this format far as enlargements are concerned? Still seemed to have

enough sharpness but I started loosing a great amount of skin tone

(sort of the ink blot effect). Is there a better film out there for

taking just casual shots of people? Help get me straight here.....

 

T.I.A.

gmc

Thanks so much for the information! You guys are awesome. So much to learn and so little time. I explored the links and found exactly what I needed for dev. times. I'm sure it will take some experimenting but at least I have a place to start. The partial batches are out of the question, sounds like I need to invest in some glass 1-L. bottles. I'm sure there will be many more questions to come, and I think everyone who replied. Certainly a lot of valuable information and I appreciate it.

 

Regards,

gmc

Being totally new to film developing, I have a couple of questions

for the more experienced. My first choice in developer was Xtol

(powder). I have read in other posts that many chose to dilute Xtol

to a ratio of 1:3 long as the 100 ml of straight stock is used. I

guess my first question is, what would be an approx. developing time

at this dilution? Is the dilution linear in terms of time?

 

My next question is why the 2.6-ounce bag tapped to the larger bag?

One is marked ?A? and the other ?B?. And is there any simple way to

separate the powder for partial batches without having to mix the

entire 1.32 gallons?

 

T.I.A.

gmc