rwbowman

<p>The bracket I'm using is the Custom Brackets Mini RC. It isn't a straight side-by-side bracket, but angles out towards the front, allowing access to vertical shutter buttons on some SLRs, and affords access to the right-hand controls and the SD card slot of the G1, as well as the controls on the flash unit. (I bought it for use with another camera, and decided to see how it would work with the G1.) Here is more detailed information:</p>

<p>http://www.custombrackets.com/scripts/prodViewnew.asp?idproduct=139</p>

<p>The QR release clamp is a Kirk 2-incher, liberated from a damaged and incomplete macro bracket I purchased on the big auction site. The only RRS bits I own are in the image I posted--the QR plate on the camera and the cold shoe. The plate is the only one I could find with an anti-twist lip that didn't block the movement of the LCD on the back of the camera. I had a few cold shoes in my box of old parts and bits, but none seemed robust enough, so I took a chance on the RRS shoe. With the cord housing screw locked in, and the knurled locking ring on the cord foot tightened down to the shoe, I'm satisfied with the stability of the setup. Of course, a smaller, high-powered flash unit that is compatible with the G1 would be an improvement, as would an off-camera cord with a sturdier foot.</p>

<p>I did consider some other flash units--the Olympus FL-36 and some Metz products--but the FL-36 is not as powerful nor does it recycle as quickly as I would like. And while researching Metz units, I found the FL-50 used for an attractive price. (I never considered the wildly over-priced Panasonic units.) Acquiring the flash unit and the cord will no doubt be my only foray into Olympus territory, as I will use them only with the G1, and only on occasion.</p>

<p>As for thread-locker, I ride and do some maintenance on a Ducati motorcycle, and lovely as that machine is, I've learned that thread-locker is my friend.</p>

<p>I use the Olympus cord with my Panasonic Lumix G1, and I'm mostly happy with it. I used a dab of thread-locker and tightened the Phillips-head screw in the mount to keep it from turning. So far so good. I also use a Really Right Stuff cold shoe on the mount which gives the setup some added sturdiness.</p><div></div>

<p>Please, there are minors who visit this forum!</p>

<p>You might want to check out the Digital Darkroom forum. There are some good threads there about scanners.</p>

<p>Louis, thanks, these are great. New life for FD lenses!</p>

<p>Lovely shots. Something very eerie about the theater shot--could be a still from a David Lynch film!<br>

Happy holidays to all!</p>

<p>Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions.</p>

<p>Doh!</p>

<p>Thanks, Franklin!</p>

<p>I purchased a used FL-50 flash which the manual says can use either AA or CR-V3 batteries. However, the Energizer CR-V3 batteries I have don't fit in the battery compartment. Reading more closely, I see that the manual specifies Olympus LB-01 CR-V3 "type" batteries. Apparently, though, these batteries have been discontinued. Can someone suggest a replacement that will fit my flash unit?<br>

Many thanks.</p>

 

<p>Wow, Michael said it all....</p>

<p>Thanks, all, for the replies. I was not aware that Canon had discontinued date codes for some non-L lenses. </p>

<p>Can someone tell me where to find the date code for the Canon Macro EF 100mm f/2.8 USM lens? Unlike my other EF lenses, it is not stamped on the lens mount. (The serial number is engraved there.)</p>

<p>Many thanks.</p>

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<p>Maybe try Kirk Enterprises?</p>

<p>Congratulations, Michael! Please share a picture of your new arrival when you have a chance.</p>

<p>No ROI or c/q analyses for me: Though I have a Canon DSLR and some other digital goodies, including the Panasonic Lumix G1, I like using my FD equipment because I think more about what I'm doing and become completely absorbed in it. I also love the results.</p>

<p>What Joseph describes is the procedure I use, but gee, if it's not in the manual, where did I learn it? :=) Maybe I'll be losing sleep along with you, Joseph!</p>

<p>I have a .pdf of the manual, I'll try to attach it, but if it fails, I'll email it to you.</p>

<p>Joe,</p>

<p>Very lovely images, and the Ektar and UC 400 films both have a nice look. <br /> What was your digitizing workflow?</p>

<p>Robert</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks, all. I had pumped up the enlarged sample to better show the artifact, which you've convinced me is flare. Going back to the original scan in Photoshop and applying some more refined local corrections has yielded a more acceptable image. And yes, accepting a pale sky.<br>

<br /> Again, thank you.</p>

<p>Thank you, Roger. I get the same result regardless of which carrier I use and with or without my ScanHancer. I had my scanner completely overhauled less than a year ago. It may well be scanner flare, but I've never experienced it before to this degree. I shoot Fujichrome Provia 100 almost exclusively, and just happened to have the Velvia around. Whether expired or not, does Velvia just scan differently?</p>

<p>Sorry, some more information: Scanning with SilverFast 6.4.4r7a, using glassed carrier, scans with Provia 100 film have never showed the artifact. <br>

Attaching an enlarged image of artifact.</p><div></div>

<p>

 

<p>I reccently shot some 2007-dated RVP 100F 220 film, and after scanning with my Minolta DiMage Scan Multi Pro I find magenta color shifts that don't surprise me very much given the age of the film. But there are also cyan artifacts along lines of high-contrast that appear only in the scans, not in the original transparencies. The artifacts appear regardless of whether the images are multi-sampled or whether ICE is used.</p>

<p>I am quite familiar with and use a color-managed workflow, so I don't think this is an issue. </p>

<p>Obviously I won't be shooting any more of the expired film, but otherwise any suggestions as to what might be going on would be most appreciated. </p>

<p>Sample below. Upper left-hand corner best shows the cyan artifact.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

 

</p><div></div>

<p>OK, one more, Canon T90, New FD 50mm 1.2L, Fujichrome Provia 100</p><div></div>

<p>One more:</p>

<p>Canon New F1, Canon New FD 85mm f/1.2L, Fujichrome Provia 100, Konica/Minolta DiMage Scan Multi Pro, Adobe Lightroom 2.X</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks, Stuart, for initiating this thread each month. So great to see these wonderful images taken with film--and, of course--FD equipment.</p>

<p>Canon T90, New FD 85mm f/1.2 L, Fujichrome Provia 100, Konica/Minolta DiMage Scan Multi Pro, Adobe Lightroom 2.X. Shot at f/1.2.</p>

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