richard_cook2

<p>Relying on my (dodgey) memory it sounds as if the shutter blades may need cleaning.<br>

Have a look at the Classic Camera Repair Forum<br>

<a href="http://www.kyphoto.com/cgi-bin/forum/discus.cgi">http://www.kyphoto.com/cgi-bin/forum/discus.cgi</a> <br>

and search their archives for 'Canonet'. The answer should be there somewhere!</p>

<p>Try keeping the battery in a warm place such as your trouser pocket and only putting it in the camera when you are taking a photograph.</p>

I use the Canon Camera Museum as the ultimate reference source for this. It lists three different models, F-1, F-1N and New F-1.

 

The F-1N is basically the same as the F-1 but with a few minor improvements. Both are gloss black and have a self-timer lever clearly visible on the front.

 

The New F-1 is matt black and has no self-timer lever at the front.

 

Advertisers use different conventions and it is worth studying their pictures to be sure of which one they are referring to.

Recently here in the UK I heard of someone who had bought a fairly expensive photography item from a trader in

Asia. When it arrived he was not asked to pay any duty.

 

Oh, and the trader had ticked the 'Gift' box in the customs declaration.

W-62 sounds correct. Mine is in plastic, unlike the others that I have seen advertised which are in metal. Also it

does not have any writing inside it to identify it, unlike the cap for the f/2.8-3.5 verion which has W-69 inside it.

I have the 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5 and also the f/4.0 version (and the other one whose details escape me). The

recommended front lens cap for the f/3.5-4-5 is the B-62mm which can be found easily on ebay but which is quite

shallow and clips onto the outside of the lens. My f/4.0 has the correct Canon front lens cap which is also 62mm

and slides onto the outside of the lens but is much deeper than the B-62 which will fit but is designed to clip onto the

f/3.5-4.5 and hence falls off the f/4.0.

 

I hope this makes sense!

It is mentioned in Robert Monaghan's Cult Classics in Third Party Lenses:

 

http://web.archive.org/web/20060813201202/http://medfmt.8k.com/third/cult.html

Try posting your question in the Maintenance & Repair section of the The Classic Camera Repair Forum at: http://www.kyphoto.com/cgi-bin/forum/discus.cgi

As Mark says, the price of the more commonplace items have been falling for years although the prices of items which were originally rare and expensive remain high. Also, as Curtis remarks, some of the prices are all over the place and real bargains are to be had if you watch the market closely.

 

However if you really want to see something depreciate then go out and buy the latest digital camera and then wait for the next model to come out. (Usually about six months later).

If you are starting from scratch and on a budget then the best route to take is via eBay where people often sell a camera with several lenses together as one lot. The price that they make is usually a lot less that what you would have to pay if you bought the camera and lenses individually.

This is not really the answer that you are looking for Curtis but I hope it is of some help. I have a 35mm f/3.5 with a chrome nose and an O instead of an A and it fits correctly on my T70. I also have a 55mm f/1.2 FD but not the chrome nose version which also fits OK on my T70. With the 55mm lens the gap between the chrome locking ring and the pentaprism is less that with the 35mm lens and it is a fairly snug fit however the ring still turns and locks correctly and the lens behaves as it should.

IMHO photo.net is the best camera website overall especially for the Canon FD forum. However if you really want to find out everything about all of the Canon rangefinders then by far the best place to go is the Canon forum on the rangefinderforum at http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?forumid=37

Hi Sue.

 

This is a forum for digital camera enthusiasts using Canon cameras:

 

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/

I have just been having a look at the photozone lens surveys which for the non-L and L versions of the Canon FD 100-

300mm f/5.6 lens which can be found at http://www.photozone.de/active/survey/querylens.jsp. Of the ten

performance indicators recorded, the non-L version comes top on eight occasions while the L version comes top on

only two. For two indicators the non-L lens gains roughly twice the score of the L version and for one indicator the

score for the non-L version is more that three times that of the L version.

 

What does this tell you about the objectivity of these lens tests?

 

IMHO either the L version of this lens is not worth the extra money that people pay for it or the owners of expensive

lenses are likely to be more critical of any faults while owners of cheaper lenses are likely to be more forgiving and

this is reflected in this survey.

Item number: 200248156086

 

There is currently an F-1 camera for sale on ebay in the UK with the above item number. It looks to me as if it is an

old F-1 body with a New F-1 AE finder attached to it. I have tried this combination and they do fit but I keep telling

myself that this cannot be correct and that I am missing something. Am I going crazy or what?

There are a great number of lenses that you could use but to see much difference between them you would need to print your pictures at a size much greater that the snapshot size that is used for greetings cards. So from that point of view it may not matter too much which lens you buy.

 

However you also say that you have a Pentax K1000 as well as the Canon AE-1 Program camera so I would recommend getting the Tamron SP 90mm f/2.5 macro lens since, with the use of suitable adaptors, you could use the same lens on bothe cameras.

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-30.html

Rick Oleson has an exploded diagram of the 50mm f/1.4 SSC here:

 

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-161.html

 

I expect that the 135 mm f2.5 FD is much the same.

V&A is the Victoria and Albert Museum http://www.vam.ac.uk/

I sometimes have to think carefully about the difference between 1.2 and 1:2 and I wonder if anyone else has the same problem.

RARE GOLD CANON F1 Body with Canon Servo EE Finder, Canon Fish Eye Lens (7.5 mm 1:5.6 S.S.C 20684)

 

But what is the lens worth???

The fungus could be either in the camera or in the lens but most probably the latter.

Have you tried taking the lens off and seeing if the fungus is still there? If the fungus is in the lens it may be easier to get a replacement lens.

It is very briefly mentioned here:

 

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/shared/speedlites/index.htm

 

To save you looking it says:

 

The first series of the electronic flash units are the universal Canon Speedlite 133D which can be used with many other Canon bodies (FTb, EF and F-1), and a more specific Canon Speedlite 500A (which is designed specifically for the F-1). However, both of these models only worked with the standard lenses of 50mm f/1.4, 50mm f/1.8 and the wideangle 35mm f/2 lenses.

"I would sometimes get accurate readings from the meter, but after cocking and firing the shutter it would go back to underexposing"

 

I would check that the battery contacts are clean. This is probably not the answer but it is an easy thing to do.

Before you do anything download Jon Goodman's instructions to replace seals and damper on an AE1 and see what is involved.

 

http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/seal/Canon_AE1.pdf